Glass bedding and staining

[ski76]

I plan on applying glass bedding in the breech and lock mortice area for extra strength. I read the directions but still a little confused. Is it better to apply before or after staining the stock ? I am going to use American Walnut on a maple stock.

 

[bioprof]

I'm by no means an expert, but I would think that you could do it either way. Most people would probably do it before staining so you could sand it down if you got any of the epoxy on unwanted areas. Either way, the epoxy bedding won't take a stain. You have to color it to match the color of the finish.

 

[Doc Arroyo]

I usually bed a barrel/breech right after I finish the inletting. then i build the rest of the gun. Most folks say it ain't neccessary, but it makes me more sure of the fit & finish. I do dye to be near the same color/tone of the stain I plan on, either useing the included dye, or some oil paint.

 

[ricklandes]

I use acraglas from brownells, I like it as it comes with pre color mix tubes in it and does not shrink and is easy to use. I have used it in many applications and it is easy to work after it is set-up Also has good directions.[url] http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1033&title=ACRAGLAS~[/url]

I think setting a barrel breech in this stuff is the only way to go. I know it is not HC, but I also build for longevity and accuracy. Many match rifles are set in the breech with this type of product.

added at edit...do this before final sanding, burnish and stain/finish applications.

 

Unless you are repairing gaps, or breaks, there is no real need to bed a blackpowder rifle. Being blackpowder guns, they don't experience the pressures, and recoil forces of modern suppository guns. I consider it a waste of time and effort in trying to match up epoxy color to real wood, which you will never be able to do without it showing. The greatest weak area is the wrist, and unless you are going to use your rifle like a baseball bat, even that is pretty strong. Just my two pence worth.

Bill

I started with nothing, and still have most of it left!

 

[ski76]

Thank you gents for your advice. :winking:

 

[BP]

If you run out of the dye Brownell's supplies with Accraglass try using acrylic pigment for paint. Can be found cheap at any craft/hobby store and in many different colors and shades.

 

[Tinker2]

This is what I have found best for staining Acraglas or
any epoxies.
[url] http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1128&title=WATER-SOLUBLE+DYE[/url]

when epoxy is thin, it is almost clear. Make sure that the
wood is the color that you want before you put epoxy on it.


If in doubt mix up a dark color of epoxy and put it on a
light colored piece of wood. Put it on like it was a wood
finish, just a thin coat. Try to stain the wood under it.

Good luck

Tinker2

 

[Birddog6]

I have used it in allot of breeches & if your inletting is good you will not see any of the bedding. I make the Acrulas dark brown & go on. Now if it is something that is gonna show, I don;t use it. I use sawdust & stainable wood glue for the small places & if it is a larger place (heaven forbid !) I inlet a new piece of wood & glue it in.

But bedding down under the breech & tang, not a problem. I suggest doing the bedding BEFORE ya drill any holes or anything...... Make sure your release agent is thick & covers well. Make sure your barrel is all the way back into the breech (I put the muzzle on the floor & push it back into the breech) then clamp the barrel every 6-8 inches & insure the barrel goes ALL the way down into the stock where ya want it.

Also where the breechplug goes in the barrel, there is usually a lil recessed area there. Fill that area on each side of the tang with some modeling clay or shoe wax paste & take a razorblade & scrape it flat, to fill this void & keep the barrel from releasing.

I always stain last, but I don't have any bedding showing so matching is not a issue.
:thumbsup: