GOEX-PINNACLE POWDER?

[kentucky bucky]

Why would a feller shoot an old fasion flintlock with a newfangled powder?

 

[Slamfire]

Why would a feller shoot an old fasion flintlock with a newfangled powder?

To keep from drivin' 500 miles to git some old fashioned powder? :hmm:

 

[Bob J]

15 minute end-of-the-day cleaning -vs- 1 hour.

 

[Dave K]

I have shot Clean Shot, which in name became American Pioneer and now it sounds as if it is called Pinnacle Powder. It really takes me no longer at all to clean "good" black powder than it does this "new" powder.Dirty gun is a dirty gun no matter what was shot through it. Don't make the job too hard to clean out a water soluble dirt. It takes me about 15min. or less to clean my guns regardless of what I shot unless it was Elephant cake. I would shoot the new powder if that is all I had available to shoot. But, the much lower temp. required to light off good BP makes it a no brainer for me to want to shoot BP. I also noticed that as this "new" powder aged, it also degraded in performance and consistance, BP does not. :results:

 

[montanadan]

Dave K- Pinnacle Powder is not the same as ,APP. Pinnacle powder is joint venture with GOEX. APP is very hygroscopic, where as Pinnacle is not. Pinnacle has a much lower flash point, easier ignition. Although Pinnacle is relatively new to market , suspect it will have a shelf life similiar to T-7. However APP does in fact make the powder for GOEX, it is not the same as off the shelf APP. I pay attention to the subs, because no one sells real B/P in Casper,WY. I would have to drive 130 miles one way... Respectfully Montanadan.(I'm pretty sure there are other shooter's in the same boat.)

 

[Bob J]

Montanadan-The Goex technical dept. told me that Pinnacle Powder has an indefinite shelf life.

 

[Rebel]

Dave, ain't you managed to rid yourself of all that Pachyderm poop yet? :crackup: Everyone starting out with BP should try some of it, then try some REAL BP to see what it is supposed to be like. It does give people a chance to use their fouling scrapers and bore brushes though. ::

 

[harryo]

15 minute end-of-the-day cleaning -vs- 1 hour.

15-20 minutes is all it takes me to clean my rifles and all I use is black powder.

 

[Rebel]

Same here

 

[Dave K]

Rebel, I saved some Elephant for my inline friends. :crackup: Then I load up my flinter with Swiss and they can see right away the error of their ways. :thumbsup: I am sorry that I have sinned. I assumed that since AAP made the powder, it was the same, just another way to market it. I have resorted to buying powder in quantity. Cheaper and delivered to my door. If I only have a pound of powder around, I feel I am out! Heck I will use that much in a day if shooting trap. Many times it is closer to two pounds, that I use.

 

[montanadan]

BobJ-Thanks I did know that...Respectfully Montanadan

 

[Bob J]

Rebel, Sabinajiles, and Dave K-
Not as a point of argument, but because I want to learn, how do you thoroughly clean a muzzleloader in 15 minutes? It usually ends up taking me an hour. :curse:

 

[Rebel]

I have a .62 cal smoothbore flinter and a double barrel .12 ga. I fill the barrels with water and let it set while i clean the lock on the smoothbore, or the locks and metal on the stock of the double barrel which has a hooked breech. After i am done with the locks i take the barrels and pour part of the water out and shake with the muzzle and vent hole or nipple holes plugged. Then dump the water, take a wet patch and run it up and down a few times. Then another wet patch doing the same, followed by a dry patch , then one with WD-40 after spraying some WD-40 down the barrel. Then if it is going to be setting a while i may run an oiled patch down the barrel. Takes longer to type it than do it.

 

[harryo]

Rebel, Sabinajiles, and Dave K-
Not as a point of argument, but because I want to learn, how do you thoroughly clean a muzzleloader in 15 minutes? It usually ends up taking me an hour. :curse:

I also have mostly half stock rifles, with a hooked breech. It takes about one minute to remove the wedge key, barel and nipple. I use a gallon milk jug, with the top cut out, and fill it just over half full of hot tap water, with a touch of dishwashing soap. I stick the breech end of the barrel into the jug and using a range rod with a cleaning jag and patch, pump the hot soapy water through the length of the barrel 8-10 times. This takes about 2 minutes.

I then use a tooth brush to clean the nipple, flash cup, breech snail and hammer with the same hot soapy water. Because I use flash cups on all my rifles, any powder blowback and cap residue is really confined to the nipple and hammer face. By holding the stock and lock upside down, I can clean the hammer with the soapy water, using the tooth brush, and no water gets to the lock. This all takes maybe 3-4 minutes.

I then dry the bore with a couple of fresh patches, use a pipe cleaner to clean and dry the ignition channel in the snail and the nipple and wipe down the outside of the barrel and all hardware on the stock. Takes about 4-5 minutes.

Another 4-5 minutes to run an oiled patch down the bore, wipe the outside of the barrel and other hardware with the same oiled patch and reassemble the rifle and I'm done.

 

[Bob J]

Rebel and Sabinajiles-
Thank you for the detailed outline on cleanup. :applause: I'm going to try it your way with REAL blackpowder and see if I can cut the usual hour cleaning session in half. To conclude, I have several questions (yes, some of us are a little slower than others :.

1. Do you go through the complete process after one shot only (hunting or unloading rifle after hunting)?

2. Do you use solvent on pipe cleaner when cleaning ignition channel or just dry pipe cleaner?

3.Any idea where I might find a flash cup for Lyman GPR (and Kodiak Double, its really bad about collecting ignition gunk behind locks!)?

Thanks again.
Bob J.

 

[Rebel]

I usually use a Q-tip to clean the bolster area under the nipple and run a dry pipe cleaner through the flash channel into the barrel. As far as cleaning after firing only one shot it depends, if i am going to be hunting the next day again i will sometimes just run a damp patch down the barrel, then a dry one and reload, then clean after the next day. I have gone for a week or more of shooting everyday with my double barrel .12 ga. without cleaning during duck and goose or dove season. I have never had any problem and have been shooting that double for years and there is not s asign of any rust in the bores. :results:
As for a flash cup, you should be able to get one at Track Of The Wolf, Log Cabin Shoppe or any of the other major BP suppliers.

 

[Dave K]

On my flinters I stick a wooden tooth pick in the vent and fill the barrels with hot water. This is soaking while I take the lock to the kitchen sink with a tooth brush. If it is a cap gun I stick a hose over the nipple and draw water in that way. I make sure the jug of water is higher than the breech and take the lock to the kitchen sink again.If it is a hooked breech single barrel, I stick the breech in a bucket of hot water. I don't even think soap is that important at all! If the guns are double barrels, I NEVER stick the breech end in a bucket of water for fear that water MAY get between the barrels. Again, if it is a percussion shotgun, I stick the hose from one nipple to the other nipple, so that the barrels will stand with hot water. If it is a flint double barrel, again stick tooth picks in the vents. I recently switched to using a bore brush(use an undersize brush,like 40cal. brush in 45 or 50cal.) with a patch over it while I am cleaning a dirty barrel. Once the barrel is clean, I go to the jag and use Ballistol on the patch to lube and pick up moisture. While I am scrubbing the bores, the locks are in a waste basket sprayed with Ballistol. When the bores are clean, I wipe off the locks of all oil as much as possible and reinstall. Yes, longer to type it, then to do it. :results:

 

[harryo]

1. Do you go through the complete process after one shot only (hunting or unloading rifle after hunting)?

2. Do you use solvent on pipe cleaner when cleaning ignition channel or just dry pipe cleaner?

3.Any idea where I might find a flash cup for Lyman GPR (and Kodiak Double, its really bad about collecting ignition gunk behind locks!)?

I always clean my rifles after shooting them. If hunting, I don't shoot the rifle, just to unload it, if I will be hunting with it again the next day. I simply uncap it.

I use a dry pipe cleaner to dry the channel. The water flush cleans out all the residue.

Here is a flashcup that will fit Italian rifles:
http://trackofthewolf.com/categories/par...Num=FLASH-CUP-3

 

[boar]

BOB J If you hot water clean Which I do I take nipple out clean with Q tip NO oil Make sure all is clean When you load gun for hunting run patch in barrel to get out oil load and if you don't shot gun that day ,dont take gun in warm place leave it out side so it wont sweat. I never dry fire a cap before I load so it is clean If you think gun won't fire take nipple out put few grains powder in drum. before you go hunting next day. I usually leave loaded 2-3 days then pull load .load back up I been using paper towels to dry out barrel after wet cleaning.Works pretty good. Dilly

 

[Bob J]

Boar-dilly -
Do you pull load with the ramrod ball-puller?