those that own one any advice? Thanks. SM
Thanks.SMYes, I have one:
View attachment 264644
... but no particular advice, except I hope you don't intend doing any competitive target shooting!!
But .. it's definitely FUN!!
I've been using 25 grains 3F load with a .690 ball and a 0.010 patch, but it's VERY tight, and I'm going to try a smaller ball.
I don't think the bore is very smooth; you might benefit from doing some bore polishing.
and recommendations on ball size and patches and ball loads?
Yes, I have one:
View attachment 264644
... but no particular advice, except I hope you don't intend doing any competitive target shooting!!
But .. it's definitely FUN!!
I've been using 25 grains 3F load with a .690 ball and a 0.010 patch, but it's VERY tight, and I'm going to try a smaller ball.
I don't think the bore is very smooth; you might benefit from doing some bore polishing.
I don't think much of the Pedersoli lead flint wrappers.The first shot from my Queen Anne sent the flint flying...
thanks.22 - 35 gr load 3F, 0.690 ball, and 0.010 patch are what's recommended in the Pedersoli black powder instructions manual. Like I said, with MY pistol, that's VERY tight and needs a mallet to get it started. Why I suggested the bore might need polishing. To the naked eye (my opinion) it looks pretty rough: visible machining marks, though they do go mostly along the bore axis. I've since done some minor polishing, but haven't had a chance yet to shoot it again to see if it made any difference. Let us know how yours goes.
I have a pistol-length range rod.Looks very nice; what do you use to load?
That .690 ball is likely a little snug even using a mallet. Might want to try a .490 ball and I used a thin .010 linen patch in mine.22 - 35 gr load 3F, 0.690 ball, and 0.010 patch are what's recommended in the Pedersoli black powder instructions manual. Like I said, with MY pistol, that's VERY tight and needs a mallet to get it started. Why I suggested the bore might need polishing. To the naked eye (my opinion) it looks pretty rough: visible machining marks, though they do go mostly along the bore axis. I've since done some minor polishing, but haven't had a chance yet to shoot it again to see if it made any difference. Let us know how yours goes.
Sorry, it was a typo, I meant .490. Nice catch.That .690 ball is likely a little snug even using a mallet. Might want to try a .490 ball and I used a thin .010 linen patch in mine.
I have a 5/8 French flint from Track on mine, and at half cock it just barely clears a closed frizzen. I suppose I could swap out the lead flint wrap for leather to get it seated a little further back, and also I think that would result in a little better striking angle.The half cock on many allows a regular flint to rest against/hold the frizzen open, a dangerous situation. If you find a source of flints that fit well stock up!
If you notice on some locks the cock has a radius behind the top jaw screw. The purpose of this half circle is so that leather can have 2 holes punched in it. This allows the top jaw screw to go Thru the leather and be secured in the cock. Flints can be changed without needing to adjust the leather and do sit a little farther back. It does place the back of the flint on the top jaw screw as well. I can't remember if pendersoli incorporated it into their lock or not. Source for this knowledge was from a lock recovered from a wreck circa 1700's. A time capsule . . .. . . I suppose I could swap out the lead flint wrap for leather to get it seated a little further back, . . .
That would be a great convenience, and thanks for mentioning it. I'll have to check mine to see if any have that. I do cut a little slit in the leather to allow for the width of the screw, and the flint to sit back against it, but that only adds a tiny bit of extra room. Going all the way through two holes in the leather would be a huge improvement, IMO.... Flints can be changed without needing to adjust the leather and do sit a little farther back. ...
I don't think the slit will allow the flint to move back any farther than the 2-hole method, since the flint can only go back as far as the screw.That would be a great convenience, and thanks for mentioning it. I'll have to check mine to see if any have that. I do cut a little slit in the leather to allow for the width of the screw, and the flint to sit back against it, but that only adds a tiny bit. Going all the way through two holes would be a huge improvement, IMO.
worn out welding glove IS your friend.I don't think the slit will allow the flint to move back any farther than the 2-hole method, since the flint can only go back as far as the screw.
The advantage of the 2-holes would be to hold the leather in place when moving or changing the flint. For that, I think it's a great idea!
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