Got my first mold....Now what ??

[tuxdad]

Howdy All,

Picked up my first mold for my 32, and have no idea how to prep it for it's first casting ? It's got a film of oil over it and I know that's gotta go but no idea how or what to use for this as well as any other prep for my mold..

Any help would be greatly appreciated ! :thumbsup:

Thanks in advance !! :hatsoff:

Tux

 

[tomme boy]

Old toothbrush and hot soapy water. Do this two times. I have a hot plate that I use to preheat my molds. I let them heat cycle 3 times before I do any casting.

 

[necchi]

It's got a film of oil over it and I know that's gotta go but no idea how or what to use for this

I start with Gas, you want all that stuff off. Then brake Cleaner to get the fuel off, then the Dawn dishsoap with toothbrush and water.

What mold did you get? Lee?(aluminum) Lyman?(steel)

 

[tuxdad]

Lee .311 double...

Do I do the same with the lead dipper as well ??

 

[necchi]

Sure clean the dipper, but it's not as important, because it get's IN the pot to stir and , well dip.

The trick with the Lee molds is to get a little lube on the mold guide pins, that's those little rods imbedded in the face of the mold.

I use automotive grade Permatex Anti Seize, the stuff is rated to 1400 degrees and that's plenty . A little touch is all that's needed.

Others will be along to add some more tip's an tricks. There's a ton of advise and experiance to be found about casting in the back pages, it can be a great benefit to cruise back and read some, :wink:

 

[tomme boy]

On the pins/rods, use a 2-stoke motor oil. Once the mold is up to temp and casting nice balls, bullets, or whatever. Leave them in the mold take the q-tip with just a very little amount on it and wipe the bottom of the sprue plate, and the top of the mold. Next, drop out the balls or whatever, and wipe the pins. Make sure you do not get any oil in the cavities. If you see any kind of smearing on the sprue plate or the top on the mold, repeat.

 

[Grullaguy]

The Lee small ball moulds are a pleasure to use. Once you have the mould cleaned up and start casting you will find a few things.

If your first balls have faults or wrinkles don't fret. Just keep filling the mould until it heats up and set the flawed castings aside to go back in the pot later. Although this is more important with larger calibers, leave enough of a puddle on top of your block so that the casting can draw extra lead down as it cools.

Happy casting!

 

[Rifleman1776]

I step outside and spray with carburetor cleaner. Go back in and start casting. I have never lubed any part of any mold and do not see the need. I don't have problems and most of my balls will weigh within .1 of a grain of each other.

 

[Grullaguy]

I step outside and spray with carburetor cleaner. Go back in and start casting. I have never lubed any part of any mold and do not see the need. I don't have problems and most of my balls will weigh within .1 of a grain of each other.

On large batches of bullets with the Lee moulds or when they have come out of storage, I have had the sides not match well if the pins are not lubed.
I would guess that the over spray from your carburetor cleaner is acting as a form of lube. :idunno:

 

[William O.]

Liquid dish soap to get rid of most of the oil followed by denatured alcohol. Lightly soot your mold with a candle before you start casting. Have a damp, thick rag near your pot to drop the balls on and use some kind of wooden stick or mallet to knock the sprue cutter with. Go through the motions in front of the pot while the lead is heating up to make sure you have things where you want them, then as you start casting you will develop a cadence. Soon you will have a hundred or so RB cast and your arms will need a rest, enjoy. Be sure not to get any water, sweat, etc. into the melting pot as it turns to steam immediately and splashes molten lead up to several feet away. Be sure you have fresh air venting into your area and don't stand directly over the melting pot breathing heavily; lead fumes=bad :barf:

 

[Macon Due]

3540
I do just what you said except........I found that the 'soot/smoke' from a candle left a bit of an oily film in the mould. Use a butane lighter instead and [if an aluminum mould] and then leave the mould on the edge of the pot as the lead melts.Once the lead is ready i apply a 'tiny' bit of lube to the alignment pins, dip the corner of the mold into the molten lead for a few seconds and start casting. I generally throw the first 5-6 balls into the sprue can but often even they are fine.
Macon

 

[Dphar]

Howdy All,

Picked up my first mold for my 32, and have no idea how to prep it for it's first casting ? It's got a film of oil over it and I know that's gotta go but no idea how or what to use for this as well as any other prep for my mold..

Any help would be greatly appreciated ! :thumbsup:

Thanks in advance !! :hatsoff:

Tux

Buy a copy of Lymans Cast bullet handbook it should cover most of what you need.
Use Brake Cleaner or Ether starting fluid to degrease. Either should leave the mould dry.
USE EYE PROTECTION you DONOT want brake cleaner or other solvents in your eyes.

Dan

 

[msuspartan]

Couple of safety tips for your consideration.

1. ALWAYS have eye, hand and foot protection, a good apron and patience.

2. When putting cold lead into the melting pot, make sure there is NO, NO, NO water on it. This includes bugs, sweat, condensation etc. IT WILL splatter/explode/pop etc. :nono:

3. When putting into the pot, slide it in or use a small spatula to block any splash from smaller lead pieces.

4. Use a grain scale to weigh your balls as some may have hidden cavities in the balls themselves.

I also glass (roll) my balls after I cast to smooth the sprue cut and the little bit of flash.

Hope this helps out and have fun casting. It is quite fun to do.

Cheers, DonK

 

[tuxdad]

Thanks All !! :thumbsup: :hatsoff:

Another question...

Is it possible to melt the lead in the dipper if needed ?? Just curious...

Tux

 

[mazo kid]

Thanks All !! :thumbsup: :hatsoff:

Another question... Is it possible to melt the lead in the dipper if needed ?? Just curious... Tux

Sure, but it will slow things down....considerably! You risk the mold cooling down between dippers of melted lead unless you keep the mold hot in the fire also.

 

[Blackpowdersmoke]

Any of you fellas ever use Frankford Arsenal's Drop Out spray? I got some from Midway awhile back and have yet to try it. It had good product reviews so I thought I would try some...BPS

 

[Comrade Coffin]

I also glass (roll) my balls after I cast to smooth the sprue cut and the little bit of flash.

Greetings my friend, I have aslo been considering tumbling my rifle balls after casting to eliminate irregularities. What kit do you use, and what do you think that hte old-timers did? Is it possible that they just attacked the sprue with a file?

 

[tomme boy]

I like to throw mine in my brass tumbler with a couple of sticks of pencil leads. the leads are the kind that are for the adjustable pencils. I let them tumble for about 5 hours. Make sure to do this outside as it is really loud. I also have a seperate tumbler just for this. It will graphite the whole inside. The mold I use is the LEE as it does not leave a sprue. The balls will look like factory.

 

[Grullaguy]

I like to throw mine in my brass tumbler with a couple of sticks of pencil leads. the leads are the kind that are for the adjustable pencils. I let them tumble for about 5 hours. Make sure to do this outside as it is really loud. I also have a seperate tumbler just for this. It will graphite the whole inside. The mold I use is the LEE as it does not leave a sprue. The balls will look like factory.

Because of the additional efforts you are putting into applying graphite to your balls, I have only one question....

Why?

 

[tomme boy]

Just to put a coating on them like the factory balls have. They are nice and slick. Plus with them rolling around in the thumbler, it takes off what little sprue is there.