GPR dilemma
- Thread starter Peter72
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Peter,
I need some clarification here. Do you have two triggers in the trigger guard? Does the second trigger set the first trigger? Have you removed the lock and verified that the fly has been removed? Have you performed the set trigger tests that Zonie described?
To properly disable the set trigger function, the rear trigger that sets the triggers has to be removed. The fly is needed to lift the sear over the half cock notch when the hammer is released. If only the fly is removed and the set trigger function still works, then the sear can catch in the half cock notch when the hammer is released and break the tumbler.
If only the fly has been removed, the gun has deliberately been made defective.
Once again I want to make the point that removal of the fly does not disable the set trigger function. Only removal of the rear trigger can do that and the fly is still useful in preventing the sear from falling into the half cock notch.
This topic needs some pictures of the inside of the lock and the triggers.
I need some clarification here. Do you have two triggers in the trigger guard? Does the second trigger set the first trigger? Have you removed the lock and verified that the fly has been removed? Have you performed the set trigger tests that Zonie described?
To properly disable the set trigger function, the rear trigger that sets the triggers has to be removed. The fly is needed to lift the sear over the half cock notch when the hammer is released. If only the fly is removed and the set trigger function still works, then the sear can catch in the half cock notch when the hammer is released and break the tumbler.
If only the fly has been removed, the gun has deliberately been made defective.
Once again I want to make the point that removal of the fly does not disable the set trigger function. Only removal of the rear trigger can do that and the fly is still useful in preventing the sear from falling into the half cock notch.
This topic needs some pictures of the inside of the lock and the triggers.
19 16 6 said:
I made my point about export laws because in America "Muzzleloaders" are not "Firearms" under firearm laws, and a trigger or fly (even from a firearm) would be unregulated anyway. But our export codes, which are very complex, might still consider them armament.
Once again I am not certain of this, but I would not mail a muzzleloader component, even simply a fly, out of the US without digging into the subject.
Don't know anything about Australian laws.
For most people, it seems to me you paid for an item. The retailer did not provide the item. It was modified before you got it. Normally, I would would ask the retailer to provide what you paid for.
Really, for ME. Since I have gunsmithing skills I might make the needed parts. It sounds like you have a lawyer induced bed wetting contest going on down there. Sometimes I am inclined to circumvent such bureaucratic foolishness on a matter of principle.
For most people, it seems to me you paid for an item. The retailer did not provide the item. It was modified before you got it. Normally, I would would ask the retailer to provide what you paid for.
Really, for ME. Since I have gunsmithing skills I might make the needed parts. It sounds like you have a lawyer induced bed wetting contest going on down there. Sometimes I am inclined to circumvent such bureaucratic foolishness on a matter of principle.
pondoro said:
It's a pain shipping BOW parts to Canada or Australia. :shake:
Does L&R ship parts out of the US? Their CVA lock upgrade is excellent, needing only minor polishing and some inletting, and they also have a Lyman upgrade.
Either way, locks are not very complex, and there are videos and books on how to work on them. Sooner or later every lock needs to be taken apart to remove BP residue. Might as well take the plunge.
frogwalking
45 Cal.
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I am not greatly familiar with this particular rifle, but please consider the following to see if it may apply. I bought a CVA double shotgun a while back. The locks each had a fly installed, even though no one in their right mind would ever use a set trigger on this gun. In preparing this gun for my grandson (it had never been fired) I found the unnecessary flys were so poorly designed and made that the gun could be cocked with the sear resting not in the full or half cock notch, but on the fly. This is a dangerous condition where the gun can, (and will) fire unintentionally. If your rifle uses the same works inside the lock or similar ones, you should not make the set triggers operational, and should not reinstall the fly. A gunsmith and neighbor of mine had a CVA shotgun accidentally fire due to this issue while he was hunting with his son. I removed both flys from my shotgun, and recommend that you either do not use your rifle, or you install a single trigger, or disable the set feature of your set triggers. I bet this is why the manufacturer disabled the set triggers and removed the fly.
longcruise
70 Cal.
The triggers on this particular rifle function well when set, but usually have a terrible single trigger pull.
The condition you mention where the hammer seems to come to a rest at half cock but the sear is just hanging up on the fly can happen to any lock with a fly in it.
Some locks are worse than others but that is the nature of the beast.
Everyone who has a lock with a fly in the tumbler must never try to set the hammer/cock at half cock directly from the full cocked position.
The proper way to set the lock from full cock to half cock is to slowly lower the hammer/cock from full cockto a position below the half cock notch and then raise the hammer/cock back upward until the click of the sear entering the half cock notch is heard.
To be sure the hammer is below the half cock notch, it is best to lower it almost to the fired position. Then the hammer can be safely raised to the half cock position.
This is the only way to be assured that the gun is properly set at half cock.
As for the inherent danger of having a fly in the tumbler, tens of thousands of locks are made with a fly in them.
Very few of these have caused a problem and then, it was almost always a matter of the user not understanding how to properly set the gun to half cock.
IMO, this danger is no reason to disable a necessary (on a rifle with set triggers) item like the fly.
Some locks are worse than others but that is the nature of the beast.
Everyone who has a lock with a fly in the tumbler must never try to set the hammer/cock at half cock directly from the full cocked position.
The proper way to set the lock from full cock to half cock is to slowly lower the hammer/cock from full cockto a position below the half cock notch and then raise the hammer/cock back upward until the click of the sear entering the half cock notch is heard.
To be sure the hammer is below the half cock notch, it is best to lower it almost to the fired position. Then the hammer can be safely raised to the half cock position.
This is the only way to be assured that the gun is properly set at half cock.
As for the inherent danger of having a fly in the tumbler, tens of thousands of locks are made with a fly in them.
Very few of these have caused a problem and then, it was almost always a matter of the user not understanding how to properly set the gun to half cock.
IMO, this danger is no reason to disable a necessary (on a rifle with set triggers) item like the fly.
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