GPR end cap removal?

[greytop13]

This Lyman GPR is my first kit. I'll probably be asking a ton of questions as I go. I apologize in advance for taxing anyone's patience.

I'm planning to start filing and finishing the iron furniture tomorrow. Everything is coming off okay except the front end cap. It appears to be attached to the stock with three very small pins. To get them out, do I just knock them through? If so, what do I use to drive them? I don't want to screw up the stock and I want them to be tight when I put them back. They look more like wire than nails.

Thanks

 

I used a small nail like a paneling nail and flattened the point a bit with a file. I used a small hammer and slowly tapped the pins out. I've put two of these kits together recently and this is how I did it. I expect many other methods on this subject to soon follow. Be careful, go slow.

 

[vradin]

I used a small nail like a paneling nail and flattened the point a bit with a file. I used a small hammer and slowly tapped the pins out. I've put two of these kits together recently and this is how I did it. I expect many other methods on this subject to soon follow. Be careful, go slow.

We call them nail thingies you invented pin drifts. You can get a set from 1/8" up to about 3/4" in hardened tool steel for a few bucks, but the smaller drifts will cost many more $$$$. Or use JJames nail idea- works just as well and unless you're using it everyday you don't need the fancy knurled handles.

Really important, tho.... go slow, light taps. You're not breaking free a kingpin off an old tractor.

vic

 

[greytop13]

James and Vic,

Thanks for the info/advice. I'll hunt up the right size in the morning. Looks like I also get to head to the hardware store for a couple of new files.

I'm going to make Vic's "Go Slow" advice my mantra on this project.

 

[Old40Rod]

Ditto on the "go slow" advice :winking: You will love the rifle, I love my .50 GPR.

 

[Zonie]

For what it's worth, the pins on BP guns are traditionally installed from the right side (with the gun held in a shooting position) of the stock.

Remove them by tapping them out with the drift punch (or nail) being installed from the left side of the holes thru the stock.

With modern manufacturing methods, it most likely doesn't make much difference but doing it that way helps the tradition alive. ::

 

[strongarm]

Just push them out enough until you can grab them from the other side with a needle nose pliers to pull them completely out. Others may disagree, but when they went back in, I put a little curve into them so once they were in, they would stay there for a long time.

 

[CrackStock]

Actually, it can matter. Some people round the leading edge of their pin and flatten the other edge for easy driving. This makes it a little more forgiving to insert and the flat makes it easier get the puch to stay on when you drive the pin in initially and later out. In this case, you would tap out from the lock (right) side and insert from the lock side as well. Since it a straight walled hole rather than a taper, there is no penalty to this method.

I learned this from a guy who was listening to me whining after I knocked a chip out of an expensive piece of wood. He showed me his gun and he had done the rounded pins on the side plate side.

It also helps to line everything up before tapping any pins. There is no substitute for getting it right.

YMHS,
CrackStock

 

[greytop13]

Thanks fellas. I found the thinnest finishing nail I had and used it to knock the first pin to the point where the pliers could take over. I used the first pin to lightly tap out the other two. I can see that aligning everything when getting them back in will be tricky. Thanks for the tips.

 

[vradin]

I used the first pin to lightly tap out the other two.

Is that sound the wind or the collective sigh of hundreds of machinists at using a pin to knock out another pin? :nono: The first and only time I did that I got my knuckles soundly rapped with a chasing hammer. The reason is that the pin has been stressed from being removed, and using IT as a drift can bend or deform the end.

Since you did light taps it's a no harm- no foul situation, just something to remember for next time. It's a major pain in the hindquarters to find out your pin has a peened end, it's 2am, and there's not a spare in the parts bin.

A trick on aligning is to use a toothpick as a loose-fit temporary pin- line up as much as you can and insert a toothpick thru one the holes, until it's thru. Now use the pin to push the toothpick out as the pin is inserted.

vic

 

While we're on the subject I'll tell you something I did when building my Jaeger. I used my Dremel tool with a sanding drum on it and ground a bit off around the end of the pin which would go in first to help it ease it's way through. I guess if I were a real gunbuilder the pins would go in without a hitch but I am not and need little tricks like this to help along.