GPR First flintlock for me - update.

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dodger

40 Cal.
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Hello all , I have done a few mods and the gun is performing much better .
A member of this forum was kind enough to provide me with some good advice and I have him to thank for the increase in performance.
I have lifted the flint in the cock by tig welding a 3/16" plate on the bottom jaw of the cock .
I have also tig welded a "stop" [ or ledge] on the rear face of the cock and extended the top jaw . Now the top jaw contacts the "stop" and exerts leverage on the flint ,rather than just clamping the flint in a flimsy and haphazard manner .
The flint now strikes the frizzen much higher and produces a good stream of sparks [even with an agate flint ].
Drilling the touchhole out to 1/16" has improved ignition , but I still get the odd flash in the pan . Next job is to drill out to 5/64".
Things are looking up :thumbsup:
 
This replacement touchhole liner made all the difference in the world with my GPR. Even after drilling it out, the factory one doesn't perform anywhere near as well.

Link
 
dodger said:
Drilling the touchhole out to 1/16" has improved ignition , but I still get the odd flash in the pan . Next job is to drill out to 5/64".
You don't have to go all the way from 1/16"/.0625 up to 5/64"/.078", at least not for your first step in opening the touch-hole up. There are several numbered drill bit sizes in between. IIRC, #50 or #51 are often cited as working well when someone wanted to go up from 1/16", at something like .067".

Regards,
Joel
 
I'll try and post pics , I'm technically challenged [ computer wise :confused: ], it may take me a while.
 
Here are some pics.






So there we are , not very elegant at this stage ,but I intend to file it down a little tidier .
However it does work much better than the original .The flint strikes at the red line ,previously it would hit the frizzen at the black line .
I have countersunk the touch hole opening just a tiny bit with a bigger drill and the ignition has improved , one flash in the pan after twenty shots with no pricking .[ 4f powder level in the pan ].
 
Thank you so very much for the pictures. They make the modifications so very much easier to understand.

Spacing the upper jaw of the clamp part of the cock out does give you better leverage against the flint loosening because of the larger surface aea in contact with the flint. The leather you replaced with the lead sheet, is also much better in my opinion. I have to find some for my rifles.

You're right, that some fine and fancy file work will improve the looks of your modification. The important thing right now, is that the modification has increased the reliability of the rifles ignition.

The important feature with this modification was the lifting of the flint, which gave the flint a lengthier stroke of the flints leading edge, against the frizzen. That is where your increased shower of sparks is coming from.

Thank you again for the fine pictures. With your explanation and the pictures, many flint gun shooters will be able to enjoy much more reliable shooting and enjoyment of their Flintguns by applying this modification.

Bill
 
I didn't have any lead sheet , so I hammered a lead ball flat on the anvil and cut it in half with scissors .
I placed a small piece of hacksaw blade on top of the lead to spread the load , [the teeth are also useful ].
Hopefully the English flints that I ordered will arrive soon and we'll see what difference they make .
 
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