GPR Flinter

[61henry]

Finally benched my gpr flintlock using .530 ball with .15 patch and 90 grns ffg at 25 yards. I didn't measure any groups and I am happy with the results, I know it shoots better than I do and am sure I can tighten the group up once I can get myself to stop FLINCHING. :redface:

 

[Ken Rummer]

The most useful of all the advice on this forum for shooting a flintlock was to use a piece of wood in place of the flint and practice dry firing.

It got me used to all the clicking and clacking and the motion out of the corner of my eye that distracted me and caused me to flinch. It did not eliminate the problem but greatly reduced the effect.

 

[BullRunBear]

+1 for KV Rummer's post.

Never had a flinch due to the flash. (My general marksmanship is the problem. ) But I wear thick prescription glasses so was not concerned about the flash. I could ignore it. Would larger coverage shooting glasses help?

Jeff

 

[Billnpatti]

Whether or not they help get rid of a flinch, good full coverage safety glasses are a very good recommendation when shooting either a flintlock or a caplock rifle. Your eyes are precious, protect them from flying bits of foil from a cap or bits of burned powder and/or bits of flint from a flintlock. Proper eye and ear protection always when shooting.

 

[hanshi]

You will adjust to the flash with practice. Fortunately I was never bothered by the flash to start with so was a step ahead. I'm a crummy shot and that's my only problem.

 

[Stony]

Focus on the front sight and you should barely notice the flash. Focus, focus, focus! :2

 

[pa woods roamer]

Take three deep breaths, while sighting at the Target. On the last Breath, let it half out and focus on a spot on the Target and touch it off!
Now, this never worked for Me `cause by the time I deeply inhaled three times I was ready to pass out......

 

[Snakebite]

I have a .54 Hawken and at 25m I'm shooting 60grs of 2F. Unless that 90grs is going to be your hunting load and that's what you always want to shoot, you might try cutting back a little on the powder. At 50m I load 75grs and at 100+ I go up to 110 or 120grs. At those distances I'm pretty much dead on. If hunting deer, I'll go max load and adjust my point of aim. My .54 is a percussion but I also have a .40 flinter. If you're flinching from the lock, I'd suggest really concentrating on the front sight as stated in previous post. Just practice, practice and a little more practice.

 

[ncmtmike]

I dream of Flintlocks :grin: now if I could just my hands on one,especially a Lyman :wink:

 

[61henry]

I've been shooting percussion for nearly 40 years but this is my first flintlock, I have tried the piece of wood trick and have no problems but as soon as it's for real I flinch again, haven't been able to fool myself, also this gpr has a terrible trigger that might be part of the problem. I was a civil war reenactor for almost 20 years and never flinch with percussion so maybe what I will do is just shoot hundreds of blanks and see what happens. The 90 grain load I am using is what I was thinking about using for hunting deer. How much powder do most people put in the pan? I don't fill it, maybe half to 3/4 of the pan.

 

[61henry]

Thanks for the advice everyone. Thinking about it I don't really notice the flash, I hear it more than anything. I am thinking that most of my problem might be the trigger, it seems to travel a mile before it breaks and I lose my concentration and start thinking about when it is going to go off.

 

[Matt85]

nothing kills a shot like a bad trigger!

i like my triggers light, i mean really light. my pedersoli long rifle is set to go off with onley the tiniest bit of pressure on the trigger (when the set trigger is engaged). im not sure how light it is but id bet its under a pound. this works great for me but ive found it does not work well for most.

are you using your set trigger? most set triggers are adjustable via a small screw between the triggers. if your trigger pull is long even after the set trigger is engaged i would have a proper gunsmith look at it.

-Matt

 

[robtattoo]

The Lyman trigger is notoriously awful. It's the one bad thing about an otherwise very good gun. Do yourself a huge favor & buy a set of RE Davis 'Deerslayer' triggers from Track our direct from Davis. It's the best money you'll ever spend on the gun.

 

[Maven]

A couple things about Lyman set triggers: Yes, they are awful straight from the factory, and the adjusting screw is typically too short to work, but they CAN be improved with a little effort and a replacement screw (must be cut to fit) are available from Dixons: http://www.dixonmuzzleloading.com/ What you need to do is remove the lock from the stock, disassemble most of it (I didn't/couldn't remove the cock or tumbler), and polish all bearing surfaces, with fine files, 600 grit paper, and or a Cratex wheel (ink eraser like rubber) in a Dremel tool. Pay particular attention to where the sear bears on the trigger levers as well. Polish the bearing surfaces of the triggers too. Clean, oil, and reassemble everything, and you will be rewarded with a much smoother lock and lighter, more reliable set trigger pull. The whole process should take no more than 75 mins.

 

[61henry]

Thanks for the tips, Matt, I do use the set trigger but the screw is adjusted as far as it will go, I like my triggers pretty light too.

Rob, I'll check out the Davis trigger, thanks.

Thanks Mavis, I'll check them out.

 

[Greg Blackburn]

Once I experienced double set triggers, I wanted those on each and every rifle (including centerfire) that I own!

Greg

 

[61henry]

I agree, I don't have any on anything other than muzzleloaders though.

 

[Greenjoytj]

I got the same group as you show using the same load.

Switched to .535" balls and now my group is half that size at twice the distance.

The trade off is it was real tough to start the ball into the bore.
I bought a small 8oz dead blow hammer to save my hand.
Now that the barrel is broken in and no longer cutting the patches on loading. After light crowning with 1000 grade grit paper and cleaning the bore with JB bore shine on patches I don't get cut patches on loading and I find no cuts on the patches I find down range.

I made a flat toped short starter and 1 smack the top of this short starter with a tightly balled fist I can start these .535" balls without trouble or pain.

A flat top starter is a the key, I saved the wood rod and brass parts from a round ball style starter and made up a 2" square hard wood block and remounted the short rod and brass button starter. Round the edges and corners on the block it works like great now.

I never had a problem ramming the tight PRB down the bore just starting it into the bore.

I checked for a proper patch and ball fit into the bore by slipping a 6" long 1/2" dia brass rod into the bore. Then starting a ball into the bore 1/4". Up end the rifle and shaking it up and down to drive out the ball slide hammer fashion. Checking the ball with a magnifying glass I can see the weave pattern of the patch cloth has been embossed into the side of ball all the way round the ball. Its heavily embossed at the lands and lightly embossed at the grooves.
The .530" balls I tried only embossed at the lands.

If you want accuracy you must shoot a tightly fitted prb comb.

I also use a 58 cal yes a 58 cal felt over powder wad lubed in melted mink oil. This load combo is very accurate I believe it's better that my ability to shoot it I am amazed at how tight my groups are getting at 50yds bench rested.

 

[wojciste]

What size patch are you using?

 

[Greenjoytj]

My patches are between .017" & .018" and are 1 5/16" dia.
I use a micrometer to measure patch thickness.
Taking many measurments all about the cloth sample.
When the micrometers clutch slips I write down the measurement and average them.
I also take measurments with the micrometer tighten down hard in order to see what the cloth is going to compress down to. I have found that the cloth will compress almost in half from the original slip method.
The compress measurement is a more accurate telling of what the cloth is actually doing when compressed between the ball and the lands of the rifling.