GPR Headin' to the Range - Any Hints?

[bowbender68]

Well, about a month ago, I bought a .54 Lyman GPR, and it looks like this weekend, I many finally get to take it to the range try her out. Being pretty new to blackpowder guns, I am hoping for a few suggestions on getting sighted in. I am using .530 RB's and FFFg powder. I have heard some say that I should just tighten the rear sight all the way down, and make any adjustments by filing down the front sight. Is this correct? How often should I wipe the barrel? Between every shot? Lastly, what should I use to wipe with between shots? Any suggestions to make this as fool proof as possible would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance.

Jeff

 

[jethro224]

I had to file quite a bit off my front sight blade even with the rear sight raised almost all the way. Just last week I finally got around to installing the fixed primitive sight. Wish I'd done it when I first got the rifle.

I wipe about every 3rd shot with both sides of a spit patch and then both sides of a dry patch when I'm just shootin'. I have gone as many as a dozen before it got too stiff to load easily.
If you're going for extreme accuracy, you might want to wipe every shot to keep everything consistent.

50 grains will shoot targets. 70-90 grains should make a good hunting load.

Get a .36 cal bore brush to clean the patent breech.

Have fun. You're gonna love that rifle. :thumbsup: :hatsoff:

 

[jtmattison]

I wouldn't tighten the sight all the way down before filing the front.
I put mine set in the middle then file the front sight to bring POI to the center. That leaves you room to adjust the rear sight up or down to accommodate different loads.

For working up loads I recommend wiping between every shot. You can wipe with a patch moistened with spit followed by a dry patch.

You didn't mention what you were patching your roundball with or what lube you were using.

I recommend making a batch of Stumpy's Moose Juice for patch lube. You can also use it to wipe between shots.

HD

 

[renovato]

I'd see if you can sight it in using the rear sight adjustments first. I was able to get mine on target that way. If not, you can always work on the front sight later.

As for wiping between shots, that depends on the lube you use. Some lubes, like Hoppe's #9 Black Powder Lube pretty much lets you shoot all day without wiping. Ballistol lubed patches work like that for some people. I use Ballistol myself. It seems that the thicker, grease type lubes sometimes require more frequent wiping. For sighting in, I think I'd be tempted to wipe after every shot, just to make sure it's shooting the same each time.

Consistency is important to keep your groups tight. This helps get the gun sighted in without wondering if that last flyer was you, the gun, the load, or the sights.

Doing everything the same way each time is important. Make sure the patches have the same amount of lube. Make sure to seat the ball with the same amount of pressure each time, etc. I've found out that by pressing on the rod after the ball is against on the powder, I can seat with the same pressure each time. Something that's hard, if not impossible, by tamping the ball onto the powder. I press with about 30 lbs of pressure for a caplock.

Sometimes even small changes can result in big differences in accuracy. Something as small as a 5 grain difference in charge, or a few pounds more or less in seating pressure, or even a different lube. Something to remember if you run into any snags trying to get a good group.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out!

 

[Jim Buchholz]

Just be prepared to receive compliments on your "cool" gun.

 

[Zonie]

I'll assume your .54 Lyman is new.
If this is true you must clean out the preservative they used in the barrel, nipple and flash hole.

Whatever they use is really tough stuff and difficult to get rid of and without getting rid of it your gun will not shoot tight groups.

Several people have used disk brake cleaner from a Auto Supply store along with patches on a brass jag to clean this stuff out with.
A pipe cleaner soaked with it can be used to clean out the flash channel that connects the nipple with the main bores powder chamber.

After you have your gun cleaned, when you get to the range set the target at 25 yards and be prepared for the gun to shoot very low.
This is due to the tall front sight and it explains why so many people talk about having to file the front sight down to raise their groups.

Before you leave the house, go thru everything you have packed to shoot the gun.
It is very frustrating to get to the range and find that you left the patches, percussion caps, balls or targets behind.

 

[cowpoke1955]

I'd like to congradulate you on your choice of rifle. That is the exact same rifle I started with 29 years ago and still have. Loved it so much I now have a second .54 in flint. Be prepared to spend a while shooting and filing. Just remember to get groups first, then file a little at a time. Both of my .54s like 80 grains of FFg Goex, .530 ball and pillow ticking patch lubed with Ballistol oil. Both rifles will do one ragged hole at 50 yards. Bump the load up to 90 grains and same results at 100 yards. I have the adjustable rear sight on my percussion and have the primitive fixed rear sight on my flinter. I like the fixed sight better. Have fun shooting and treat your new friend right :thumbsup: .

 

[Oldnamvet]

With the crescent shape of the GPR buttplate, don't try to tuck it into your shoulder to fire. It doesn't fit there --- was meant to fire off your bicep (actually between shoulder and bicep) instead. Placement and hold is the difference between a good time and a good bruising.

 

[jtmattison]

Whatever they use is really tough stuff and difficult to get rid of and without getting rid of it your gun will not shoot tight groups.

Great point Zonie. It didn't even cross my mind.

When I get a new Lyman barrel, I have a few, a few too many if you ask my wife :haha: , I scrub the bore with Hoppes solvent and 0000 steel wool wrapped around an old bore brush. It serves two purposes, cleaning plus knocking the burs off the rifling.

HD

 

[BrownBear]

Good points so far, so I won't retread that ground. Here's some additional points:

The taper on those Lyman nipples isn't quite right for #11 caps. They sit too high and often don't actually contact the top of the nipple, especially as the nipple dirties a little. As a result you might get some misfires. This is a short-term fix and may sound a little scary, but point the muzzle in a safe direction down range and do it anyway if you are getting misfires: After seating a cap, very carefully lower the hammer onto the cap and press down on it firmly to finish seating the cap. That will cure the problem long enough to let you keep shooting, but long term you will want to replace those Lyman nipples.

Another point: That little screw between the two triggers adjusts your set trigger. In a nutshell, it's too short and you won't like the results of the set trigger till you replace it so you can adjust the trigger. Unfortunately it's a metric size and I don't remember which. Not a hassle your first time out, but you'll want to be changing that screw eventually.

Another point:

When seating a ball, be sure not too grab that rambrod too high up from the muzzle. Six inches is about right. It's sure easy to break a ramrod if you grab it too high, and a series of short strokes is better for ball seating than one long one.

Another point:

Whether shooting offhand or from a rest, concentrate on the follow-through, or what happens between the time you pull the trigger and the ball actually leaves the muzzle. It's longer than on other rifles you may have shot, and as a result it's possible for your shot to wander a bit, even if you had things perfectly lined up at the split second the trigger broke. It takes practice, but you'll learn to deal with it.


I could go on, but I'll only add one more point:

Start your shooting at around 25 yards and stay there for a while. Your wiggles and wanders will have less impact than at longer ranges, and it can get discouraging. You'll gain a lot more confidence in that fine rifle if the shooting is going well.


Oh heck, one more:

I'd probably start at a charge of around 30 or 35 grains of 3f black powder or Pyrodex P, just to get acquainted with the rifle. That's my favorite charge for mushing bunny heads with my own GPR 54 cuzz it's accurate as sin. You'll eliminate a lot of recoil and shoot it better while you are getting acquainted, and there's no sense in fighting a flinch right off the bat with your new gun. You can always puff up the powder charge to big game hunting levels later, but for now just have some fun with the light loads.

 

[jtmattison]

The taper on those Lyman nipples isn't quite right for #11 caps. They sit too high and often don't actually contact the top of the nipple, especially as the nipple dirties a little. As a result you might get some misfires.

I've heard this from a few guys on here but I have never had a problem with Lyman nipples. I use Remington caps and they have always seated properly and fired the first time, every time. I have never, ever, had a cap fail to fire.

HD

 

[traceywalker]

All good advice. I'd shoot for groups first 25-50 yards and worry about sighting it in later. Just make sure your hitting paper!! Tight groups = the right patch thickness, lube, powder, etc. As noted almost everywhere else around here, what works for mine may not work for your's. I've settled on .530 balls, 85 gr of 2F Goex, lube mix of water and Ballistol on a strip of .118 pillow ticking. I cut my patches at the muzzle to ensure a tight seal every time. Kind of old timey looking as well, but.... watch your fingers! During my trials the last two weeks, this seemed to work very well for my kit built .54 GPR capper. So far, very good results but,..... the black powder Gods are not finished with me yet. Check your patches for burn and blow outs. Much can be learned by dead patches. Read everything you can find on the subject. I'd listen to everything you hear here.... (couldn't resist)and take a look at the Dutch Schoultz papers. This site and Dutch got me off to a better than even start. Everything is balanced on consistency of variables. GPRs are fine guns and respond well if you do your part.
Rangertrace

 

[BrownBear]

The taper on those Lyman nipples isn't quite right for #11 caps. They sit too high and often don't actually contact the top of the nipple, especially as the nipple dirties a little. As a result you might get some misfires.

I've heard this from a few guys on here but I have never had a problem with Lyman nipples. I use Remington caps and they have always seated properly and fired the first time, every time. I have never, ever, had a cap fail to fire.

HD

That's interesting! If we could get the Remingtons locally my grief might have been solved with a simple switch in caps. I should have qualified my recommendation with "when using CCI #11 caps." Of course, I've got over 20 tins of CCI's squirreled away, so it'll be awhile before I think about picking up any Remingtons for a test!

It's a real consistent mismatch with the CCI's, stretching over several GPRs bought over a span of years along with a Deerstalker purchased a couple of months ago. It also applies to the two 3-packs of Lyman brand replacement nipples I've gone through.

Okay, to backtrack a bit.......

If all you can get is CCI caps, try swithing the Lyman nipples out for Buttler Creek or TC hotshots. They fit fine with no misfires due to poor cap fit.

 

[BobKrohn]

Another point: That little screw between the two triggers adjusts your set trigger. In a nutshell, it's too short and you won't like the results of the set trigger till you replace it so you can adjust the trigger. Unfortunately it's a metric size and I don't remember which. Not a hassle your first time out, but you'll want to be changing that screw eventually.

It's (unfortunately) reassuring to hear that someone else had a problem with the set-trigger adjustment screw length.

I went to several gunsmiths trying to get a longer screw, with NO luck. No metric hardware.
Gee, I thought it wouldn't be that big a deal!

I'm lucky to live fairly close to an "industrial hardware store" (McFadden-Dale). The ones that have maybe 200' of nut and bolt bins. They were the only place to get what was needed. I "think" it was 2.5 mm dia and not sure what pitch. There is probably only one pitch available anyway.

Link to McFadden-Dale http://www.mcfadden-dale.com/

 

[Emet Huntsman]

I bought mine at an auction so did not have to mess with the sights - they were dead on. I found I could really tighten up the groups at longer ranges by using an overpowder felt wad. I use 70 gr FF and Bore Butter lube.
I second that about holding the butt into your arm rather than your shoulder! The first time I went out my wife about died when I cam in with blood on my shirt -- I had a whole row of "smiley faces" from the butt digging into my shoulder and breaking the skin!
But I love the rifle would not part with it for many times what I paid at auction.

 

[ringdove]

The screw is 2.5x8mm. I had a difficult time finding one but the local hardware store gave me a name of a local company. It really helped the trigger! There is a thread in this forum with the information.

 

[StewartLeach]

Jeff:

Lots of good advice already given. The Lyman rifles are of good quality, much better than the other factory traditional rifles.

As noted, barrel assembly should be cleaned very thoroughly before that first shot is fired, to remove preservative grease and any wierd things that may be in the barrel from storage, packing, shipping and time on a display rack. Same after storing in back of your closet for a while. Several patches really wet with spray carburetor cleaner works well for me. Have also used modern rifle bore cleaners to good effect.

Rifle barrels are the cylinder of a very simple internal combustion engine. It's worth spending a little time breaking in a new barrel. Fire your first few- perhaps ten- shots with moderate loads, and clean very well between shots. I suggest you fire at least ten shots before adjusting the sights.

The adjustable rear sight supplied by Lyman is something of a weak spot in the system. The adjustment range is short. You may well have to file down the front sight to get enough elevation. Go slow with the file, firing three to five shot groups every few strokes. Like most such sights the Lyman rear relies on notches in the underside of the screw head bearing on a rib or ball for the clicks. Slight down pressure on the arm will make it easier to turn the screw. Be sure the rib or ball is seated in a notch, and not on the ridge in between. Hint: when sighting in off sandbags or other rest, interpose your hand between the bags and the rifle forearm.

I'll sing the praises of a patch lube and in-between-shots barrel cleaner called "Moose Milk". There are various recipes out on the 'net. The combination that gives me good results in a 40 cal, several 50 cal and a 58 cal round ball barrels is 2 fluid ounces of Ballistol, 2 ounces Murphy's Oil Soap, and water to make a total volume of 32 oz (one quart). The first time I brewed up some of this I fell prey to the "if a little is good, more must be better" syndrome and used double or more the amount of oil and soap. Big Mistake. In extended firing sessions like ML competitions the extra oil and soap contributed to an almost varnish-like buildup just ahead of the chamber area.

I'm primarily a competitive shooter, tho' I hunt muleys with a Renegade. My firing drill for matches goes like so. Before loading first shot, barrel is wiped with both sides of a damp patch to remove the Hoppe's MDL applied after cleaning. First shot is loaded and fired into the bank to foul the barrel. Barrel is swabbed with both sides of a damp patch, then dried with a clean patch. This drying patch becomes the damp patch after the next shot. And so forth through the match. The idea is to establish a more or less steady state of fouling in the barrel.

Have fun with your new rifle! What more could a guy want- bad smells and loud noises all at the same time!

White Fox

 

[mykeal]

The screw is 2.5x8mm. I had a difficult time finding one but the local hardware store gave me a name of a local company. It really helped the trigger! There is a thread in this forum with the information.

2.5x8mm?

ISO standard thread pitch for 2.5mm major diameter metric threads is 0.45mm for coarse thread and 0.35mm for fine thread.

 

[nvbirdman]

I just pulled the trigger assembly out of my GPR and took the whole trigger assembly to the hardware store. Found a screw that fit, no problem.

 

[Zonie]

bowbender:
In case you didn't see the post in the Flintlock forum you might want to follow this link to it.
Quite a few things mentioned that will apply to your gun.
.54 GPR- The first month

I know you haven't shot your gun yet so you don't know if patch cutting is going to be a problem but you might read thru the fix for the rifling and crown that I just wrote there.
It could come in handy to know and it might keep me from having to post the instructions all over again in the near future. :rotf: