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GPR improved lock
- Thread starter brpc
- Start date
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Lyman percussion locks are pretty good.
Here's what ya need......
Looky Here
Best 40 bucks you will spend on your Lyman.
There was recently a lot of discussion here regarding these triggers.
Here's what ya need......
Looky Here
Best 40 bucks you will spend on your Lyman.
There was recently a lot of discussion here regarding these triggers.
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2004
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- 14,767
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I agree- No need to change the percussion lock.
Amen to the trigger change, though. Davis designated it for the TC, but it's as close to drop-in as you can get for a GPR, too. One of mine did in fact drop right in. The other required removing a few molecules of wood from one side of the trigger plate inlet. Davis says it's a 5-minute change, but it only takes that long if you're really sloooow with the screwdriver! :rotf:
Amen to the trigger change, though. Davis designated it for the TC, but it's as close to drop-in as you can get for a GPR, too. One of mine did in fact drop right in. The other required removing a few molecules of wood from one side of the trigger plate inlet. Davis says it's a 5-minute change, but it only takes that long if you're really sloooow with the screwdriver! :rotf:
$40 may seem like quite a bit to pay for these triggers but to put it into perspective, 16 years ago a set of triggers like this cost a bit over $30. That figures out to be about 2 percent/year which is less than inflation during that amount of time.
horsesoldier03
36 Cal.
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- Sep 27, 2007
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I have a Lyman GPR as well in the percussion. I would like to replace mine because I would rather shoot the muskets caps as I am normally shooting it in the winter and they are easier to handle. The coil spring on mine does not consistently pop musket caps but the regular #11's pop everytime.
Muskets are designed for musket caps and you'll notice they all have honkin' big hammers with the nose relieved large enough to make plenty of room for the big cap and a very powerful mainspring to reliably bust those big caps. Sporting guns have much smaller and lighter hammers designed for #11 caps. A common problem when using musket caps on a sporting gun is that the recess in the hammer nose will rub tightly on one side of the cap which robs some energy from the hammer fall, energy which is marginal at best. Better to stick with the #11 caps and get yourself a Ted Cash capper to eliminate the problem of handling caps with gloves. Lots cheaper than a new lock which probably also will not work well with mucket caps.
paulvallandigham
Passed On
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- Jan 9, 2006
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I can't imagine using Musket caps on any percussion gun unless I were a re-enactor using a military style gun, shooting blanks.
A CAPPER is a tool that holds percussion caps, and is used to help place them on the nipple, particularly in cold weather when you don't want to be touching any bare metal to your skin! Its also a safety tool, as it protects your fingers and thumb from serious damage or injury should any cap- including those musket caps-- fire as you are pushing them down onto the nipple bare "fingered"?
Cappers come in a variety of styles, made from steel, brass, and even heavy leather. Considering the cost difference of buying and shooting musket caps, the capper will pay for itself after using it to shoot a couple of hundred caps, just in practice.
I personally use a Tedd Cash oval, brass capper for my percussion shotgun. And, I use ONLY Standard #11 caps- not the magnums. The Capper is designed to hold 100 #11 caps, so I can dump an entire can of caps into the cap, give it a couple of shakes to right the caps in the well, and close the top. I am good to go with that capper with just a shake of my wrist to have a cap drop down into the spring holder. Since my entire hand covers the capper, the "rattle" of the caps is muffled so that only I can hear it- and probably feel it rather than hear it, if truth be known. I Do NOT wait to cap my gun until game is close.
If carrying a capped gun concerns you, there are plenty of options available to protect the gun from an accidental discharge, while having it still read to shoot in quick order. PT me for that information, as that is off-topic here. :thumbsup:
A CAPPER is a tool that holds percussion caps, and is used to help place them on the nipple, particularly in cold weather when you don't want to be touching any bare metal to your skin! Its also a safety tool, as it protects your fingers and thumb from serious damage or injury should any cap- including those musket caps-- fire as you are pushing them down onto the nipple bare "fingered"?
Cappers come in a variety of styles, made from steel, brass, and even heavy leather. Considering the cost difference of buying and shooting musket caps, the capper will pay for itself after using it to shoot a couple of hundred caps, just in practice.
I personally use a Tedd Cash oval, brass capper for my percussion shotgun. And, I use ONLY Standard #11 caps- not the magnums. The Capper is designed to hold 100 #11 caps, so I can dump an entire can of caps into the cap, give it a couple of shakes to right the caps in the well, and close the top. I am good to go with that capper with just a shake of my wrist to have a cap drop down into the spring holder. Since my entire hand covers the capper, the "rattle" of the caps is muffled so that only I can hear it- and probably feel it rather than hear it, if truth be known. I Do NOT wait to cap my gun until game is close.
If carrying a capped gun concerns you, there are plenty of options available to protect the gun from an accidental discharge, while having it still read to shoot in quick order. PT me for that information, as that is off-topic here. :thumbsup:
