I seldom speak on here but have gotten a lot of good advice from reading and asking some knowledgeable posts such as roundball and a few others so i thought i would share a few thoughts on the lyman .54 gpr i shoot. I use a L&R rpl lock and also have a .54 GM smooth barrel that is absolutely amazeing. I drilled out the vent liner a bit and installed some good sights on the factory barrel and am presntly considering a set of better triggers though the factory triggers seem o.k., just trying to make it a bit more better. I took a lot of wood off the cheekpiece and made a 7/16 ramrod fit instead of the original 3/8 of which i broke several. I have killed moose, elk, caribou and several bears with this gun even a couple of young grizzlies that give me problems on the trapline trapping beaver in the spring and this gun is all i now carry in the bush because up here we have REAL screwed up gun laws.I love this gun and it feeds my family. does anyone else feel the same way i do about thier GPR? or have any other suggestions how i may improve it. I would like to find a .58 or bigger barrel for it but i dont think one can be had. I wrote this because there seems to be a lot of complaints about traditions and other cheap imports but i do not feel a Lyman falls in this category, i have seen a few custom guns and granted mine does not fit in thier category but it is about as custom as i will probably ever get and it feels damn good in my hands and shoots dead on. i am hopeing some of you will share your thoughts on the lyman GPR with me. I was very pleasently surprised when i found the smooth barrel to be as accurate as it is [3" groups at 60 yards], this makes it a very versatile gun and has killed quite a few moose in a lick 1 mile up the creek from our cabin, while my sons have also fed us on blue grouse and ducks many times with it. I wouldnt trade it for any other production made flintlock and thats a fact. does any one out there agree with me?
-
Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.
We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.
Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103
GPR is good
- Thread starter beartrap
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
I love my GPR. Bought it several weeks ago and no matter what load I put down the barrel the gun shoots very well. The longer I shoot it the better it gets in regards to tighter groups. Of course some of this may be me getting use to the rifle. I couldn't ask for a better flintlock rifle.
Ron
Ron
I agree! The GPR is a good rifle. For the $ it can't be beat! :thumbsup:
The Lyman guns are NOT in the same class as Traditions. They are a much better built gun.
I own CVA, Traditions, T/C and Lymans. IMHO the T/C and Lyman guns are a pretty close match for quality. I like the looks of the Lymans better tho. The CVA is not bad, but not quite as good. And the Traditions is a step down from the CVA. My Traditions shoot well but the quality of workmanship is not as good as CVA.
Your results may vary.
The Lyman guns are NOT in the same class as Traditions. They are a much better built gun.
I own CVA, Traditions, T/C and Lymans. IMHO the T/C and Lyman guns are a pretty close match for quality. I like the looks of the Lymans better tho. The CVA is not bad, but not quite as good. And the Traditions is a step down from the CVA. My Traditions shoot well but the quality of workmanship is not as good as CVA.
Your results may vary.
newhouse said:
The RE Davis Co. carries a replacement trigger, the Davis Deerslayer which is a drop-in replacement for the Lymans Great Plains Rifle. I bought one several years ago and was very pleased with it. Smooth and "sting" free.
Bob
thehorn said:
If you would remove the trigger set from the GPR and POLISH (not file or change the shape, i.e. "round off") the tops of the knives, you will find a vast improvement in the stock GPR trigger. No "creep" or anything like that. The trigger becomes crisp and breaks without hesitation. Made the mistake of telling this to a fellow shooter after the first day of shooting and on the second day he whipped the tar out of everybody, and I was shooting really well the first day. But, that's what fellow shooters do when we can.
Hello Otter -
I know nothing about trigger work so bare with me here but can you show me how to polish the trigger on the GPR? Pictures or some instructions would be great. I do feel some creep with my GPR. If you want you can email me at [email protected]. Thanks.
Ron
I know nothing about trigger work so bare with me here but can you show me how to polish the trigger on the GPR? Pictures or some instructions would be great. I do feel some creep with my GPR. If you want you can email me at [email protected]. Thanks.
Ron
paulvallandigham
Passed On
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2006
- Messages
- 17,538
- Reaction score
- 87
Ron: Get Brownell's catelog, and order some emery polishing stones. They are expensive, but a worthwhile investment that will last you years if you take care of the stones. They come in different shapes, rectagular, square, triangle, round, diamond, or the common shapes. When you are looking at the trigger parts, you are looking at and for the points that contact the sear( bar ). If you find burrs on those parts that contact each other, or casting lines, stone the surfaces until they are smooth and flat. Remove burrs. It takes just a light stroke or two at a 45-90 degree angle to knock them off. You won't be removing any metal from the remaining part. As long as you go slow, check your work as you go, and test how the stoning is improving the smoothness of the two surfaces as they rub together, you can't go wrong. With gunlocks, you have to remove the springs before getting at the other parts. leave the springs out when you test how the parts fit together, and how they contact each other. Once they move smoothly, reassemble the lock by replacing the spring(s), and test the trigger again. Use a good solvent, or Liquid Wrench toclean the stones of the blackened metal bits removed from the work, so you can have a clean surface to hone other parts. If the work begins to slip on the stone's surface, stop and clean the stone. With these stone, even soap and water removes most of the fine steel bits from the surface.
Ron,
Paulvallandigham describes what to do as well as I could, but there's no reason to remove the lock at all, let alone disassemble it. Remove the trigger guard then remove the trigger set. When you have the trigger set out you can operate each trigger and you should be able to see what the "knives" are that I speak of. The knives contact the searbar and release the hammer to fire the gun. If there are burrs on the two knives in the set, you can VERY gingerly use a very small fine file to remove them. Once that is done you can use 400 or 600 grit sandpaper on the top of the knives only. Use a small file on the non-business side of the sandpaper to make sure you don't round off anything that doesn't have a round shape to it. Take it real slow and easy, it is a lot easier to take off more metal than it is to put some metal back on. It shouldn't take but 5 to 10 minutes to do the polishing once the trigger set is out of the gun. As a final step, get some crocus cloth and do the same thing you did with the sandpaper. If you are not familiar with crocus cloth, it is similar to sandpaper except extremely fine grit and is on a cloth backing instead of paper. It can be had at any GOOD hardware store (i.e. not Lowes or Home Depot, at least I have never found it there). I have also used the FINE stone from my Lansky knife sharpener kit to do similar polishing. Remember, go SLOW and EASY. If I can do it, I'm sure you can, after all "it ain't rocket surgery, ya know".
You can look at the Track of the Wolf website for pictures of a double set triggers. Several pictures show the knives I refer to.
Good luck.
Watch yer topknot . . . Otter
Paulvallandigham describes what to do as well as I could, but there's no reason to remove the lock at all, let alone disassemble it. Remove the trigger guard then remove the trigger set. When you have the trigger set out you can operate each trigger and you should be able to see what the "knives" are that I speak of. The knives contact the searbar and release the hammer to fire the gun. If there are burrs on the two knives in the set, you can VERY gingerly use a very small fine file to remove them. Once that is done you can use 400 or 600 grit sandpaper on the top of the knives only. Use a small file on the non-business side of the sandpaper to make sure you don't round off anything that doesn't have a round shape to it. Take it real slow and easy, it is a lot easier to take off more metal than it is to put some metal back on. It shouldn't take but 5 to 10 minutes to do the polishing once the trigger set is out of the gun. As a final step, get some crocus cloth and do the same thing you did with the sandpaper. If you are not familiar with crocus cloth, it is similar to sandpaper except extremely fine grit and is on a cloth backing instead of paper. It can be had at any GOOD hardware store (i.e. not Lowes or Home Depot, at least I have never found it there). I have also used the FINE stone from my Lansky knife sharpener kit to do similar polishing. Remember, go SLOW and EASY. If I can do it, I'm sure you can, after all "it ain't rocket surgery, ya know".
You can look at the Track of the Wolf website for pictures of a double set triggers. Several pictures show the knives I refer to.
Good luck.
Watch yer topknot . . . Otter
Took my Lansky extra fine stone to the knives and she is smooth as glass. I did feel some rough spots on the knives so I just ever so slightly cleaned them up. No more creep and the trigger feels crisp. Might not be perfect but it feels good to me...
Ron
Ron
I knew you could do it. It doesn't take much to make some things work better.
