GPR Misfires

[aprayinbear]

Problem with misfires today :idunno:

Took my percussion GPR to the range today. Ran a clean patch down the bore to clean any residual oil and then fired a cap to clear the nipple. For my first round I pulled the trigger, the cap fired, but no shot. Replaced cap. cleaned nipple and tried again and the shot fired. Then shot 3 well placed rounds and thought all was clear (I use a spit patch between rounds.) Then added powder for the next round. When I started the patch and ball I noticed some air resistance while I was seating the ball. Capped the nipple, pulled the trigger, cap went off and nothing. Tried again and nothing. Removed the nipple added a few grains of powder. Recapped.... cap and the bit of powder fired, but not the charge. After a while I pulled the ball and brought the gun home to clean.

I then filled the barrel with soapy water and let stand for 5-10 minutes and poured out. Tried to run a patch down the bore and it was like a pneumatic pump. Removed the nipple, poured water down the bore and nothing came out the nipple end.

Finally removed the clean-out plug and continued to pour water in from both ends until finally whatever was plugging the touch hole popped open and as always I then cleaned and oiled. I must admit that I don't usually remove the clean-out plug, just the nipple and I suppose fouling or oil finally collected in the nipple drum.

I thought I was cleaning my rifle sufficiently, but apparently not the drum. My question is, "How do you guys clean the nipple drum on a percussion rifle?" Even with the plug removed, there's no easy access to the area. The bore is easy, but the drum is a real pain. Suggestions?

Shoot Safe, Shoot often, Shoot Fun! :thumbsup:

 

[Dewey]

I had a GPR for about 4 years (then traded it a flintlock), and during that time I NEVER did any special cleaning on the drum. I just cleaned it similar to you ... used HOT water (with a little soap) and pumped it in and out of the nipple. Then did the same with non-soapy hot water. Dried it good while hot, and used some Hoppes oil drops on a patch to protect the bore.

And it ALWAYS fired ... er ... except for that time when I forgot the powder ... :redface:

What oil (and how much) are you using ?
Are you using any grease ??
What is your nipple ???

 

[Dewey]

PS

Thinking back on it, I did remove the nipple before cleaning and clean it separately (was close to 30 years ago!).

Also, some folk store their smokepole muzzle down, so the oil doesn't collect at the drum. I stored mine horizontally on the wall.

 

[Grenadier1758]

Your GPR should have a hooked breech so you can easily remove the barrel to clean it with the breech in your bucket of hot soapy water.

Are you wiping between shots with a very wet patch? A very wet patch will push fouling down the barrel and leave a lot of moisture to turn your load into a watery sludge.

From what you are saying there is a lot of fouling building up in the drum. Wiping between shots should be done with a slightly damp patch on a loose fitting jag. When you load a lubricated patched round ball, the patch will wipe the remaining fouling down to the powder.

We need ALL the details of your loading procedure. What lube and how much? We need to know if you are removing your barrel and cleaning the barrel in the bucket of hot water. Search for cleaning procedures on this forum. We all have variants of the process of cleaning the bore in water with a small amount of soap. We use some sort of water displacing solvent to remove as much water as possible. I run a pipe cleaner through the drum to be sure the drum is open. I will then run a final patch to dry the barrel. The final patching will be used to apply a good rust inhibiting lubricant such as Barricade or Rem Oil.

You should store the gun with the barrel pointing down so the oil doesn't collect in the breech.

It is important to note that your GPR has a patent breech with a sub diameter bore leading to the bore of the barrel.

I hope your problem is solved.

 

[aprayinbear]

A Bit more info....

I not sure what to add. First, I don't use lube other then a spit patch. I run a loose fitting patch down the bore between shots which is also a spit patch.

After shooting, I remove the barrel, remove the nipple and repeatedly pour warm soapy water down the bore. After a while I run wet soapy patches down the barrel until I see no fouling. I also use a soapy Q-tip to clean the drum as best I can. Then, I repeat with water and finally, begin running dry patches down the barrel until dry. At that point I use one of the gun oils (Rem oil, etc.) on my patches and liberally swab the bore with a drop to the nipple. 2-3 days later, I wipe the bore with a clean patch and then swab with a new oily patch. Put rifle away until next time I shoot.

Never have stored with muzzle down.

Remember, I've been shooting my rifle for 4-5 years and never had a problem. Same cleaning process each time.

My guess is that I was over-zealous with oil after a recent cleaning which lead to an accumulation of unfired powder. Might try the "store with barrel down idea.

Thanks

 

[Okie Hog]

My question is, "How do you guys clean the nipple drum on a percussion rifle?"

i use a pipe cleaner with bristles to clean the flame channel.

 

[daniel collums]

you need to be careful using a q-tip because the fibers will come off and clog the flame channel.

 

[Cowboy]

Just another school of thought. When I first got my GPR I took it to the range to see how she would shoot. I had numerous misfires and went through a whole lot of caps. The only time it would fire is if I took off the nipple and sprinkled a little powder under it. Needless to say I was very disappointed with my new GPR's performance. I was new to shooting Traditional Muzzleloaders and for the likes of me I couldn't figure out what my problem was. After seeing I was having all these problems an experienced shooter took a look at my GPR and noticed my problem right off. The hammer cup was not striking the nipple squarely.Only the front edge of the hammer cup was making contact with the nipple. It was a manufacturer flaw on my GPR. I sent the rifle back to Lyman and they replaced the barrel and sent it back to me. I then took it to the range and it fired flawlessly each and every time. Problem solved. I have never had a misfire since. Just my two cents on what happened to me and wouldn't hurt to check to see that your hammer and nipple are properly aligned with each other. Respectfully, cowboys1062.

 

[Flash Pan Dan]

I agree with Toccopola, you need to deep six the Q-tips and use pipe cleaners. I also use a 32 caliber bore brush to clean the powder chamber in the patent breech.

 

[bigted]

I totally agree with the q-tips as well. pipe cleaners all the way. also I wonder if removing the breech plug and making it bore size would help in the cleaning and ignition.

 

[don hepler]

I would not remove the breech plug. You are really asking for trouble. You are very likely to damage the barrel or breech plug. And it may not line up on the flats when you re-breech it.

They make scrappers, that you can put on a range rod. You can put it down the barrel, and apply some pressure, while turning it.

If a pipe cleaner will go thru the nipple hole and fire channel, then it should fire.

I have 8 or 9 cap lock rifles and almost never have a misfire. If I do have a misfire, then it was something, that I done. Like shoving fowling down the barrel, and blocking the fire channel. I don't fire caps, to dry out the barrel. I make sure the rifle is clean and ready to go before I load it. A clean and dry gun........will fire.

 

[aprayinbear]

Final analysis,

Thanks for all your suggestions. My final thoughts about the problem are:

Allowing soapy water to stand in rifle for about 5 minutes before removing (as with a flintlock) may have caused residue to enter into the drum. I only tried this twice before the problem occurred. Now I'm back to immediately removing the nipple and flushing with soapy water before doing anything.

Oil may have dripped into the drum when sitting upright after cleaning. Now I store muzzle down.

Pipe cleaners are a good idea, much better then Q-tips, but in this day and age I could not find pipe cleaners anywhere within 10 miles of where I live, so I came up with a new and maybe better solution.

I'm now using the tiny brushes you use to clean between the teeth. The bristles are firmer and the size is perfect. And... I can buy them anywhere!

Bottom line.... after cleaning in the above manner I headed for the range to see how she would run. Perfect.....no problems and as accurate as ever;
5 shots standing, off-handed, no support.... 2 1/8" center to center.

Thanks again for all you thoughts and Suggestions!
Happy Shooting! :hatsoff:

 

[don hepler]

Actually the pipe cleaners, that I'm using, are not real pipe cleaners, they are sold in the gun cleaning section. They have a piece of copper wire twisted around them, and are not real cheap. I cut them in to smaller pieces, to make them go farther. But the dental things, might be pretty good also.

 

[Grenadier1758]

Now you have to find pipe cleaners in hobby shops among the craft making items.

 

[Leatherbark]

I only swab as I'm seating the ball. That way no firing residue ever gets pushed into the anti-chamber. To me it is more convenient. After pushing the ball/patch down with the short starter I place a licked patch on the muzzle and push it down with a jagged rod and shove all of it down then I might shoe shine the rod back and forth and withdraw the patch. Never Ever a misfire while shooting.

Bob