GPR Nipple hard to remove after Firing

[Electric Cowboy]

First of many "Norman Newguy" questions.
After firing "Ol Grizz", my 50 GPR the nipple is hard to remove. Yes I use anti seize and I never have this problem with my T.C.
When I reinstall it,it glides in with finger pressure, same as the T.C.
Using Ampco nipples from Buffalo Arms, suppose
to be good stuff.
This is more of a curious question than a concern.
Because someone will ask, 70 grn of ol eynsford,
Daisy shaped .018 patches from O.C.
Been reading the pages back to 2014, lots o knowledge here..............

 

[fleener]

nipples can be hard to get out. Various rifles have different size and types of flash channels. Humidity and temperature can also play a factor and how much you shoot.

If you take a small piece of plumbers Teflon tape and wrap the threads you will find that your nipple will screw right out after a long shooting session. No more need for grease.

Fleener

 

[SgtMaj65]

I've got a new .50 GPR myself and the first two times out to the range and the nipple is pretty hard to get off too, not nearly as easy as my T/C Renegade. I use anti-seize and it still is tough. I've just chalked it up to "that's just the way it is." I'm using the stock nipple that came with the rifle, and have a spare I got from TOW I'll try next time just to see if it does the same thing. I'm not too worried, because I have a really good old nipple wrench I got 30 years ago as a CW re-enactor. Some of the newer wrenches aren't nearly as well made as mine.
Hope you are enjoying your GPR as much as I am enjoying mine. The sucker was accurate as anything I've ever shot, right out of the box. :hatsoff:

 

[Electric Cowboy]

Thanks for the replies, will put this on my "Dont Worry About It" list.
I will toss some plumbers tape in my shooting bag.

 

[fishmusic]

I had the same problem with my GPR. I tried oil on the threads but that didn't help.

Leave it on when you clean it to dissolve the fouling. It will come off easier. When you put it back on use anti sieze on the threads. I use gorilla grease but other posts have other recommendations. Use what you think best.

 

[SgtMaj65]

I use Gorilla grease too. May try some bore butter ... got a lot of that somewhere in my stuff.

 

[BrownBear]

Try removing (or at least backing out) the little "clean out screw on the side of the snail first (I assume yours has one like mine). That screw when tightened down can actually press against the base of the nipple and cause the removal problem you describe. I also use a very thin film of good moly grease on my nipple threads, but the cleanout screw is the real culprit.

 

[Electric Cowboy]

Pulled clean out screw,5 turn to remove, cleaned and hit it with blue locktite, ran it in all the way. About 5 1/4 turns, then backed it out a full turn.
Short story about torque, I have a friend that is a machinist,and he is fond of saying "Tighten it down till it strips then back it off a quarter turn"........

 

[Black Jaque Janaviac]

Couple things I learned with my old GPR.

1. Both nipple and clean out plug are easier to remove after I've soaked the breech in a bucket of hot water.

2. You can lock one (nipple or clean-out plug) against the other - so be mindful of this. I usually screw in the nipple until tight. Then I install the clean-out plug until tight, then back it off 1/4 turn.

 

[Grenadier1758]

What I have found is an affirmation of what Black Jacques has found, almost any threaded fastener used on a muzzle loader just needs to be tightened down snug and backed off 1/4 turn. Too tight and you are just asking for problems. My advice is not to let your machinist friend use a screwdriver on your rifle.

 

[necchi]

So already 8 posts and 4 different answers.
It's not rocket science.
As you found out something needs to be done with nipple threads.
You haven't discovered a new thing that's specific to your rifle, it's a common issue with all muzzle loaders and most guns in general when it comes to cleaning and lubrication.
(sticky parts need lube)
As most of the above posts suggest using some kind of lubrication is the answer. But only after the breech and nipple threads have been thoroughly cleaned.
I prefer using a touch of automotive grade anti-seize,, a touch, I literally touch the tip of a tooth pick in anti-sieze,, then apply that to the clean nipple threads.

Pulled clean out screw,5 turn to remove, cleaned and hit it with blue locktite, ran it in all the way. About 5 1/4 turns, then backed it out a full turn.

That was another rookie un-needed move.
Now that it's in there with loctite, leave it and forget about it, it can stay just where it is forever and cause no problem.

Short story about torque, I have a friend that is a machinist,and he is fond of saying "Tighten it down till it strips then back it off a quarter turn"........

Guess what,, your "friend" is an ***** or he was making a joke and you didn't get it.

 

[Electric Cowboy]

Of course it was a joke and yes I got it.

 

[Electric Cowboy]

John,
If you would have read my first post you would have seen where I said I "USED ANTI SEIZE"
I did not post here to get dressed down.
The friend I referred to builds Top Fuel Funny Cars and it is his way of "lightning things up".
Something that seems to have been missed by some.

 

[necchi]

WHAT ANTI SEIZE do YOU USE?.
And HOW DO YOU APPLY IT?
You implied that you use excessive torque while seeking advice for a problem that is specific to your rifle,,
How can you expect proper assistance?

 

[longcruise]

Every percussion rifle and revolver I've ever cleaned (it's a bunch) have had difficulty removing the nipples. Sometimes very difficult!

The ant seize that worked for me is the stuff used on spark plug threads. They still stick a little but are much easier to remove.

Most oil and grease is actually a big part of the problem.

 

[Electric Cowboy]

John.,
Gorilla Grease, applied with fingers, threads only.
The Torque story was an aside, I clearly stated that I screwed in the clean out screw till I touched the Nipple, then backed it out 1 full turn.
The logic that I followed from Brown Bear was, maybe it was too close and the fouling was enough to seize it up after shooting. Sounded like a possible deal to me.
Here is a back story for you.
In a few days I will be traveling to another western state to help "Teach" a class on Wilderness Survival to about 35 Federal Employees.
At no time will I tell someone they made "Another Rookie Mistake" after all,they may know more than I do about the subject than they let on.
Appreciate your help.

 

[fleener]

I have used the anti seize for years. Sometimes it works well, other times not so much. I dont like having to soak the barrel in water to break loose the nipple.

Since I switch over to the teflon tape the nipple screws out after a full day of shooting just like it was a clean rifle.

Fleener

 

[Rifleman1776]

Lots of answers. But, still no explanation of why that nipple is hard to remove. A couple of my thoughts: nipples do not have to be removed regularly to start with; there is an undiscovered problem such as non-matching size or thread. Except for ancient rusty relics, I have never seen a nipple that is hard to remove. Tis a puzzlement.

 

[SgtMaj65]

Never had trouble removing nipple on my T/C Renegade in 30 years, or my Euroarms .58 3-band Enfield. But, my new Great Plains Rifle nipple is hard to remove. Not terribly hard, but noticeably. My other two rifles don't have a clean-out screw, while my GPR does. I'm thinking that is the culprit. It can be screwed in too far where it interferes with the nipple threads. I backed mine out a bit and I'll check today after my range session to see if nipple is still hard to remove. I'm using a bit more anti-seize on nipple threads as well. Will try Teflon tape if it keeps up. Not a big thing for me, though ”” just an observation.

 

[robinsroost]

I have not had your problem. I use automotive type never seize grease applied with a small artist brush..........robin :hmm: