GPR wedge pins

[barebackjack]

Hey all,

I have a question pertaining to the wedge pins on a great plains rifle.

How far should the wedge pins stick out on the left side?
At first mine didnt even met up with the left side escutcheons, I further inlet all the escutcheons (basically leveled out the crappy factory inletting), but the pin closest to the lock still barely reaches the left side escutcheon.
I have the longer pin in the rear like im supposed to, even though its only about a 32nd of an inch longer than the forward pin. How much longer should it be, did I get a "freak" short pin?
Should I just inlet the plates down even more?
Ive thought about filing a little bit off the escutcheons themselves, but decided to wait for some input from you guys.

Thanks for any help.

Boone

 

[Goldhunter]

mmm, I didn't have this problem. However, mine are just barely long enough to reach the outside edge of the plate. The original one I have left fits flush with the plate. I ordered a new one from Lyman after I lost one and it was really long. I had to grind about a 1/4 inch off to get it the length I wanted it. TOTW also has replacment wedge pins.

Which leads me to some advice. If you know this trick, great. If not, it is worth the effort. File a slot in the wedge pins and install a capture pin under the wedge plate. Then you won't loose a wedge on a hunt like I did. :shake: Luckly I had an extra in my bag.

" KEEPING UP WITH THE BARREL KEY-- across the practice of catching a small pin between the escutcheon plate and the stock. Sometimes this pin is inserted down through a small hole in the barrel channel, but I prefer the former method because the pin could drop out when the barrel is removed.
This is quite easy to do by inletting a small crevice in the wood vertically under the plate. Make a pin from a .062" brass rod or a small finishing nail of similar size. If the barrel key doesn't have a slot in it, and most of them don't, you can put one there by using a drill bit to match the pin you made and filing in a slot. Carefully punch a line of markings down the center of the barrel key and drill a hole at each mark. Keep the holes in the center of the key and close to each other. Use a small, round needle file and remove the metal between the holes. Be careful while filing, as the file may stick and break and possibly cause an injury. Clean up the inside of the slot with a flat file. Make the slot long enough in each direction so that the key will seat fully in place and pull out far enough to release the barrel.
Assemble the pin, barrel key and escutcheon plate back onto the stock. Some fine tuning to the fit may have to be done. Now you can be sure that while out hunting, at the range or at rendezvous you hear someone say, "Hey buddy, you lost your barrel key."-Jime Meili, McFarland, WI. N/D 90"

 

Your diagram is incorrect. The capture pin in the diagram would not allow the wedge to be withdrawn thru the slot in the wedge lug on the bottom of the barrel. The correct place for the capture pin is thru the stockwood inside the barrel channel, over the wedge, thru the slot in the wedge and into the wood under the wedge. That is what the slot in the wedge of for.

 

[Goldhunter]

I haven't had a problem with this particular set up or with getting the barrel out of the stock. The slots in my wedges stop the wedge just after it clears the lug on the bottom of the barrel.

 

[Norskie]

No, I believe he has it right. Look carefully. The pin goes into the milled groove under the escutcheon plate and the plate holds it in place. I've done it both ways, and the only disadvantage to this way is you're relying on the plate screws to hold the wedge. Not a great risk, I'd say.

 

If there is room in the underlug for the capture pin to slip thru, it will not hold the barrel snugly. I am baseing my comment on how it should be done, on an antique 1/2 stock rifle which I am holding in my lap as I write these words. I have another which doesn't even have a capture pin, the wedge is held in by friction alone.

 

[rmonday2]

Are the two pins the same leingth?
If so, then you may have to keep reducing the wood.
Look at the width of the wood beside the barrel and see how uniform the thickness is.
As far as the pins staying in, mine have a slight arch to them and I always turn the arch down to pull the barrrel into the stock.
That's just how I do it. There are other ways, Im just not familiar with them. :grin:

 

[barebackjack]

The rear pin is just maybe a 32nd of an inch longer.

I think ill just order another set, its a good thing to have spares of anyway.

Mine didnt stay in at first either, I rolled the staples down with a brass rod and a few hammer taps, no worries now.