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Gray finish

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Col. Batguano

75 Cal.
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Thinking about a lock finish for my soon to be ready for it build. Browning obscures the engraving, and "in the white" is too white. So thinking gray might be the right way to go. My barrel will be blackened by the usual method. LMF cold browning, and then covered with dirty motor oil and burned of with a torch (outdoors).

Anyone here done graying before? I can't find it in any of the books, and an advance search yielded little other than phosphoric acid.
 
navel jelly leaves a nice "matte gray" finish. :idunno: I think it is actualyl the phosphoric acid you mentioned. :idunno:
 
If the HC/PC police are not watching I put a single (coat) of cold blue (typically Birchwood Casey).

I also use it to treat everything on the "inside" of the lock regardless of how I'm finishing otherwise.

It's not the greatest protectant, but a little better than in the white and does give it that grayish colour that otherwise takes a few decades to develop.
 
I brown to get the age spots, small pits if you will...then use Kano Exrust remover......then cold blue, then OOOO buff off till your satisfied.
I have a metal plate rust treating as we speak.....when it's good and coated....I'll try your method, burning oil off it....I want to test this....it's a new method for me!
Marc
 
Yeah, the naval jelly works pretty good.

IMG_3882.jpg
 
Just refinished a LR's bbl and flintlock by applying 44/40 cold blue and immediately when still wet, rubbing w/ 0000 steel wool. Work only 6"-8" at a time and it blended well. Very nice darker gray....but if rubbed out more, could be slightly lighter. Surprisingly nice looking finish.

If a much older look is wanted, first brown until the metal pits and a good etch is achieved,then completely remove all the brown w/ steel wool or Scotchbrite saturated w/ oil or mineral spirits, degrease and finish w/ the cold blue......Fred
 
OK, I finished rusting with LMF cold browning my samples of cold roll steel plate. I carded one side smooth with OOOO steel wool, left the other side rough.
The plate had 2 applications of LMF browning and was nice and even. I coated both sides with motor oil from the old lawn mower. Took a propane torch and heated one end one side very hot, the played the torch up the plate not getting the other areas as hot.
I let it air cool. Carded both sides with OOOO steel wool, then rem oiled it.
The color is dark black to me....but not even, and I tried to even it with the steel wool, but couldn't. Where the oil pooled, it gave a 'ring' or edge line.....
1. I just want to see if the color is fast, 2. if it has stopped rusting, because I didn't soda it :hmm:
3. And can I steel wool/1200 grit sand some 'wear' to it.....

I do like the dark dark color....IF this will do the same on barrel steel......and other steel parts....looks pretty!

This message approved by tomtom who oversees all my work, and likes my methods..... :haha: :stir:
Marc
 
I have been tote'n it the car, and it stopped rusting after 2 days....the oil 'set' it well.

tomtom said it's done...... :haha:
 
I greyed an el cheapo Indian smoothbore fowler by using boiling hot apple cider vinegar. Gave the shiny iron parts a nice antique Grey look. Be sure to steel wool your parts good first though so it will loose the shiny finish.
 
I've put a grey patina on high carbon knife blades using distilled white vinegar, seems to prevent rust and other tarnish much like bluing with normal care and maintenance.
 
Check TOW or Brownell's (I forget which) There is a pamphlet on doing the French Gray Finish. Might cost $2.
 
Before browning and to create an "etch" or matte finish. I tried toilet bowl cleaner. Yielded a nice gray finish which when browned, produced too dark a brown. No longer do it.....Fred
 
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