Gunsmoke & Feathers

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Jan 29, 2010
Messages
1,808
Reaction score
8
Alright, pretty much set to get started on building my quail and goose gun for this year. A 12ga double flinter using converted damascus breechloader barrels. I figured rather than do a new post each time I come up with a question (of which there are sure to be many) I'll just do one thread. So here we go.
 
Took last night to completely disassemble the old hammer gun that is graciously donating the barrel set. It has Belgian proof marks although I have not taken the time to nail down an actual date of Mfr. However I think it was around turn of the century. In addition to the barrels I think I'll be able to put new hammers on the locks and use them, the triggers and guard on a percussion double rifle I want to do down the road.

I know it seems silly to take apart a whole gun for this but these older hammer breech loaders can be had for less than what you'd pay for a barrel from Rice if you look around enough. There are lots of old shotguns with good bores and barrel tubes that just have loose actions and/or broken stocks that the CAS guys don't want to bother with.


IMG_0789.jpg


this set has a really nice pattern I thought.
IMG_0791.jpg


IMG_0790.jpg
 
I agree with Mike. Please keep us posted on your progress. Should be a very interesting project.
Woody
 
that's some really nice looking steel! they're right about your bravery, too ... what you're up to is way out of my league, but please do keep us posted on how the project comes along!
 
One of my primary concerns at this stage is getting the breech face flat and square to the bore. I have and am pretty much going by "The Book" on making double flinters but he doesn't really go into this too much. He says, basically, to make 2 plugs and then file and fit them like you would on a single barrel. But in my mind it seems like if one had to get filed a tiny bit more than the other it would make the face of the apparent breech plug not match up. So here's my plan.

I'm going to turn a chamber sized guide out of steel and a part to fit over that with a smooth face 90deg to the bore and larger than the barrel width. I should be able to use sticky back paper and contact cement to put sandpaper on the tool face. I can then trim the barrels down and get them close with a file then use the facing tool to get both breech surfaces even and perpendicular to the bore.

I also think I can make a tool like this to taper/cone the first 1/2" or so of the chamber a couple of degrees to make the tap more likely to self center in the chamber as that's what messed up my 14ga barrels I was originally going to use for my first double build. Although, in hindsight, I think the 14ga chamber just may be a bit too small to run a 7/8 tap through and there was just too much meat to hold the tap in place once it got slightly off center.

I also have a plan for the plugs different than the one given in "The Book". Rather than make a plug that is close then file it to fit. I'm thinking I can make a casting of the chamber and then machine a plug based on actual measurements of the chamber. So it will fit (knock wood) without too much adjustment. It's rained too much to go hunting this weekend, so we'll see.
 
My local gun shop bought out an old gunsmith and he has a trailer load of old guns mostly only good for parts. Most are selling for $5-$20. Lots of old double barrel shotguns. I have not looked through his selection to see if any are damascus, but I am sure he has some. If you need a barrel set or 2 to practice on I would be happy to pick up some for ya.
 
Good Luck!! I cant wait to see the progress. I know I would not be able to take on this task!! It is gonna look Awsome!!
 
I would be very very interested in a set of nice 20ga or 28ga barrels. Maybe a 16ga. A 12ga is a bit overkill for quail. I would like to build a 20ga also. Have duck/goose/pheasant gun and a Quail/Chuckar/Skwerl gun also.


The set of 14ga barrels that I tried the first time and ended up getting one tube tapped off center I paid $35.00 for and they still have 90% perfect bores. I have another set of 12ga that I traded an old box of shells for but they turned out to be only a damascus print on the surface and not true damascus barrels. Although, they're still good barrels, just not all purty. Eventually I may breech and proof them just to trade

The gun I got these from I have roughly $150 into. Which, even if I only got the barrels would still be a good deal. But I should also be able to use the triggers, locks, trigger guard and misc hardware from. Decent barrel sets can be had for not much money.


Haven't gotten to do jack this weekend on the gun. Had to sit at the house with plumbers yesterday and tried to make a trigger guard that just refused to turn out like I wanted. Today a local quail breeder was closing up shop and blowing out his adult birds for dirt cheap. So I've spent today expanding my pen and picking up a few dozen birds while I could get them for a buck apiece!!!!
 
Most of what I saw were modern steel, and pretty crusty, ok to practice breaching, but as I said I didn't look too close. Due to my work schedule I likely won't get in this week but will browse around a bit Saturday. What are old damascus barrels worth? I may have to pick up a couple 12ga sets to resell if I find them. I am pretty well aquainted with the owner and have bought a few guns there. He will probably give me a good deal if I buy a handful of his "junkers" at a time.
How do you tell true damascus from imprinted? Look at the bore?
 
well, I can buy a late 19th early 20th century damascus hammer guns with broken or missing wood but otherwise in "shootable" (pending proofing)condition for $100-$200. So, you can go from there I think. BUt, like anything, all of them are different.
 
Ok, I have a plan for the tapping.

I'm gonna turn a brass plug a couple of inches long and tapered to a point on one end that I can insert into the bore inside lubed ticking (very tight fit). The point on it can center the tip of the tap with the bore. Then I can support the back end of the tap with an aluminum cradle clamped to the table top along with the barrels. I can center the back of the tap vertically with shims under the cradle and side to side by a measurement to the side of the table.

The pressure it takes to push the plug down the bore should hold the tap to the point of the plug centering it to the bore and the cradle along with the squared breech face should center the back. We'll see, now that I know what I need it's time to start making this stuff
 
Back
Top