cositrike
40 Cal.
Sorry. Bad information. I got my steel one from Track of the Wolf.
H Aston Model 42 .54 Cal Percussion Cap Single Shot Muzzleloading Pistol
- Thread starter B Tom
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Yeah, I was looking for a musket cap nipple made out of steel but all I could find in their inventory was Product ID# NP1350 Nipple 5/16x24 in steel but taking #11 caps. Thank you for the feedback.
Oh, just read your last reply. Ok, I will look into it. Thanks again.
cositrike
40 Cal.
Pleased to be able to help. It was this forum that helped me with the same problem, both for the 1842 pistol and 1841 rifle. Hope everything goes well for you
zimmerstutzen
70 Cal.
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US horse pistols before the civil war are a very neglected field in many respects. I am aware of no decent factory reproductions. I have had two originals over the years. Never fired either. One was a Johnson & Waters the other, IIRC, a Palmetto. I do have the Zoli Springfield carbine model which is a terrible copy of the original. I had an 1861 Lorenz Pistol, with Michigan Markings. 1,100 of them were purchased by the Feds at the beginning of the civil war for federal cavalry and were almost immediately replaced with revolvers. I had an original Hanoverian Horse Pistol and a Lancer Pistol too. I do now have a Indian made repro of the Lancer Pistol. It seems nearly all percussion US military arms before the civil war used musket nipples. I suspect partially because they are easier for fumble fingered soldiers to use in the heat of battle, rather than little number 11, 's or some other size. Most of my pistols use musket caps and I prefer them. I even have a musket cap capper. (Traditions sold them)
Yep, It all makes sense that military muskets and pistols all used musket caps and FFg black powder. I've got my musket cap nipple on order. Thank-you for your feedback.
Placed my order with Track of the Wolf.
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Armas Antiguas makes what appears to be a good looking Aston repro.
He even labels it (NOT INDIAN made !!!)
I was looking to get a Pedersoli percussion Harpers Ferry but if this is priced OK I may get this.
Of course if he wants like $900 +200 shipping its gonna be a no-go
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Mine is I. N. Johnson dated 1855--we shoot it with 30 grains of 2f or 3f Goex black powder, effective range about 20 to 30 feet. Works good with .535 ball and thin patch, or .530 and thicker patch--musket caps.
I did not know repro’s were being are. It appears to be well made from the snap shot. Hope you get a fair price.
This is very useful information to validate what I have gathered to date. I plan to start with FFg and then probably FFFg once I have gained more confidence with the pistol. Glad to see a musket cap on your pistol.
While I await for a new musket cap nipple
Meant to say Musket cap nipple
While I await for a new musket cap nipple to arrive, I’d like some help on the following. In my internet search, I am seeing some conflicting information on how the black powder should be loaded. Should you load the powder, patch and ball with the pistol half-cocked or not? Why do some feel it is necessary for the pistol to be half-cocked?
There are some that believe that the half cock position is a safe location and the hammer will not fall while loading nor will the hammer block air from escaping through the nipple during loading. I like to load with the hammer all the way down on the nipple (of a cap lock firearm) as the hammer can't fall and there is no cap on the nipple so there is no chance for accidental discharge. With a good solid half cock, either loading with the hammer down or at half cock (no cap on the nipple) are good, safe loading practices.
What is necessary is that there be no likelihood of an accidental discharge.
What is necessary is that there be no likelihood of an accidental discharge.
Rockvillerich
Pilgrim
Sorry to pipe in here, but an uncapped percussion firearm CAN discharge due to residue of the caps being left on the nipple, so it is IMPORTANT to always load at half-cock to avoid the possibility of impact between the hammer and the nipple. I say this from first hand experience with an uncapped percussion shotgun that fired when the hammer was struck.
I can see where residue from an unfired cap that was removed could generate a spark from impact of the hammer. If the cap had fired, what residue is left other than the burned primer residue that could fire. Use of the half cock as a safety depends on the fit of the sear in the half cock notch as much as the presence of primer material left on the nipple if the unspent cap is removed.
The procedure I use after firing is to set the gun to half cock to remove cap fragments and to wipe fouling from the nipple. After the fragments are cleared and the nipple wiped, I put the hammer down to load. Some ranges will require that the gun be set to half cock for loading, so then the gun is set on half cock.
In any event, use the procedure that best fits the conditions at the time of loading. If an unfired cap has been removed, use the half cock. Although I would likely use a patch over the nipple to dampen any accidental hammer fall. I'm not much of a fan of relying on the half cock notch as a safety.
Its a little different for loading my flintlock. The pan is wiped, the frizzen is wiped and the flint inspected for edge quality. Then the frizzen is opened and the hammer is lowered for loading. I will put a pick in the touch hole.
The procedure I use after firing is to set the gun to half cock to remove cap fragments and to wipe fouling from the nipple. After the fragments are cleared and the nipple wiped, I put the hammer down to load. Some ranges will require that the gun be set to half cock for loading, so then the gun is set on half cock.
In any event, use the procedure that best fits the conditions at the time of loading. If an unfired cap has been removed, use the half cock. Although I would likely use a patch over the nipple to dampen any accidental hammer fall. I'm not much of a fan of relying on the half cock notch as a safety.
Its a little different for loading my flintlock. The pan is wiped, the frizzen is wiped and the flint inspected for edge quality. Then the frizzen is opened and the hammer is lowered for loading. I will put a pick in the touch hole.
Thank you Grenadier1758 and Rockvillerich for your feedback. I am only a recent entry to this forum and I think it is absolutely awesome! I am impressed on how everyone is willing to help and share their experiences upon the call for help. Yeah, I guess there is always a chance for mechanical failure in the half cocked position (with any antique or modern firearm). I think the important message for all here is the emphasis on safety. Keeping the hammer down against the nipple, or keeping it half cocked, is a personal choice. What is of great value for everyone is to clean the nipple thoroughly after each fire, or even after removing an unfired cap. I applaud you folks for the informative exchange. Bravo! I inherited my model 1842, and I am gaining more and more confidence to try it out one day for the very first time. Prior to the inheritance, my father kept it as a show piece. Somehow I think he is watching from high above and pleased that I have made contact with a bunch of good black powder firearm comrades.
DaveC
32 Cal.
At my club, skirmishers leave the hammer of a caplock down on the just fired cap. The idea is that little if any oxygen can go through the cone and touch hole to keep anything smouldering or burning for when the next powder charge goes in... After loading, the rifle musket comes to the ready, the cock is pulled to half cock and a cap put on the cone. When the "fire" command is given, the piece goes to full cock as it is shouldered and aimed, and shortly fired.
Rockvillerich
Pilgrim
Good point. Preventing oxygen from entering the barrel while loading is a definite safety plus, and the reason the vent of a cannon is stopped during loading. My comment was to remind everyone that an uncapped percussion firearm is not at all "safe".
