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superdeluxe

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I am building a Dickert kit from track and yesterday I drilled the hole in barrel for vent liner. I went to tap the threads and noticed that I needed to drill a little deeper and remove just a little of the end of the breech plug so I could run the tap a little deeper. Well I didnt have my stop set on my drill press, wasn't paying attention (talking to wife) and accidentally drilled through both sides of barrel. My question is, can I thread the hole on left side to 1/4-28 like the vent liner get a bolt and run it in flush with inside of barrel then cut off and file flush with outside of barrel or am I stuck buying a new barrel. thanks
 
:shocked2: You gots to watch those women folk. They are devilish creatures and will lead you astray!
:grin:

Honestly, don't know. But I'm interested in finding out myself.
 
I'd love to tell you you need to send me the barrel and I'll make it into pistol barrels, but that would be a lie.

You'll be fine. Tap the "off" side for a bolt, say 1/4-28 and slightly countersink the outside a smidgeon. Remove the breechplug and run a threaded 1/4-28 mild steel rod or bolt in until it's in the bore. Note how long the bolt or threaded rod needs to be. Check and double check, it must not protrude beyond the wall into the bore and byond the rifling, but it must fill the wall. Cut off the bolt while it is in place, with a hacksaw, leaving a little extra (1/16" extra is aplenty). Now peen the outside of the rod down until the countersink is filled. File and drawfile. Done.
 
No problem. drill and tap NF as desired, cut off exposed threads and dress down flush to bbl flat.

If anyone notices, tell them it is a variation of the Nock breech you decided to omit. :winking:
 
Hey, you could just put a vent linere in there & a lock on both sides & have a RH LH rifle ?????? :hmm: :bull:

As Rich says, tap it & plug it. If it has round bottom rifling, I would take it to even with the rifling & then I would take a dremel or rouund file & cut the rifling same as it was originally. Also myself I would us Red Locktite on that plug as this would permanently lock it & seal it up.
:thumbsup:
 
You will find that on many snail drums, they have been drilled in this fashion to accomodate passage from the nipple to the main charge. The Uberti Hawkens are a prime example. Cheers, Bookie
 
My Pederesoli came with two holes like that. One side has the vent liner and the other side has a threaded plug. I presume so the same barrel can be used in both left and right-handed stocks.
 
Thanks guys for all the replys, got a threaded plug made, just need to get some loctite and I'm set.
 
Those women can cause more problems in a gunshop than anyone can imagine.

A friend, and an excellent custom gun builder became distracted when his wife entered his shop. He allowed her to pick up a nearly completed longrifle stock to inspect the carving. Picking up the stock without paying attention to where the stock was pointing, she promply jammed the forestcock into the ceiling fan. Wham! Instant half stock.

His wife is no longer allowed in his shop. :applause:

superdeluxe,
Follow Rich's instructions, with the addition of leaving the plug to protrude very slightly into the bore. File the excess to almost flush with the bore using fine needle files. Take care to avoid scratching the bore. Finish with fine emery cloth.

Also, radius the edge of the cut off plug before peening. A radiused end will spread better than a rough end, filling the chamfer completely, with no gaps.

Finishing the plug flush with the bore, and polishing the plug as well as possible will prevent cleaning patches from catching on the plug. It will also help insure that the breech area can be cleaned well. Finishing the plug flush will also prevent a difficult to clean cavity that will collect fowling.

One other thing, send the wife out shopping while you do this work. :haha:
J.D.
 
Hey thanks for the tips J.D. Gonna have to learn to set the gun and tools down when the wife or kids come in to see me.
 
Take the barrel to a welding shop and have it MIG welded. The barrel is OK to weld. I had a friend try to drill and tap a muzzleloading barrel for a scope. well he broke off the tap in the hole. The gunsmith took out the broken tap and told ue to take it back to the shop and weld it closed. Just another option.
 
Welding really does sound like the easiest fix, and after a sanding and finishing, it wouldn't show like a filler plug would.
 
I'm sorry that it took so long to respond, but we were without power for the last four days.

A properly domed head on the filler plug will not show when finished, provided that the head is well radiused, (domed), well peened with light taps beginning in the center of the head, and made of mild steel, as most bolts are.

I would contact the barrel manufacturer before thinking too seriously about welding up that hole.

I seem to remember reading that 12L14 does not weld well. And since most ML barrel makers use 12L14, that may well be what your barrel is made of.
J.D.
 
The problem with just welding is that you will either have a void on the inside where the weld didn't go right to the bore (this will collect fouling) or the weld will protrude into the bore that make it difficult to clean right to the breech if left and be a gripe to file out. However, if you want to weld it, make your plug screw short, half as long as the wall thickness of the barrel, run it in until it is flush with the bore, mark it (inside the bore) remove it and file the end to match the contour of the bore interior. Then reinstall the screw, and weld up the remaining hole and file flush. The hole should be countersunk to the depth of the screw so you get a good solid weld right to, and penetrating into the screw. Then just clean up the inside with a round file to ensure there's nothing will snag a cleaning patch. This will only be viable if you intend to leave the barrel in the white. If you intend to blue or brown it, the weld will almost certainly color differently from the rest of the barrel and will not look good at all. If you just use a plug, leave the plug just a shade above the surface of the barrel and peen it before fileing it flush. This will give an invisible joint and the screw MIGHT color the same as the barrel. If not, at least it will be a nice round discoloration rather than a blob shaped thing that the weld will leave.

Cody

PS I don't know the weldability of 12L14. As previously suggested, it may not weld well.
 
12L14 is a low carbon leaded steel. It also has a fairly high sulfur content and it will hot crack with the best of them if you try to weld it. It machines nice, but it doesnt weld well.

Plug it or cut it off and rethread the breech.
 

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