Hammer gets stuck on the half ****: diagnosis?

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I would "score" the trigger plate where the tip of the fullcock notch tip rest when at full ****. (See the arrow in your pic below). Then as you pull the hammer back from the resting position, see if the halfcock notch tip "covers up" that score. If so, some filing of the halfcock notch tip would be in order.

This may take a few "file the tip", reassemble, try, file the tip, etc, etc.


364208-IMG-1309.jpg
 
Wow! Stops at half **** from full ****. I've never seen a lock without a fly. Wondered how to **** and fire a rifle without a fly.
Must be frustrating to pull a hammer from un **** through half **** to full **** only to have the hammer fall to half **** when you pull the trigger.
That's a big problem with all those **** positions.
 
REALLY !! ?! Very interesting ! Could you tell me more ? Much more ! I dont know anything about Muzzleloaders but they look SO neato ! An offending fly ! Thank you so much for telling me all this great information ...Accident causing flies !! Sounds horrible ! WOW ! ... Plz tell me more ! Thank you !
I could be wrong but I sense your takeing the Micheal ?. The fly or 'detent ' was a contrivence to prevent the scear nose catching the half 'bent' ( There got round the auto sencers **** )
Rudyard
 
Just as a n aside. an Australian f0rum that I used to visit before being banned, would automatically change ‘weapons’ to ‘rifles.
The joke was to type something along the lines of
“The Roman legions which invaded Britain had very practical weapons . . .’’ which got changed to ‘’, , ,very practical rifles . . .’’
Clearly they don't call you the' Wild Colonial Boy 'for nothing .My ineptitude with tying knots got me Cashiered from the Boy Scouts .
Stretching the elastic in the truth department . Rudyard
 
I would "score" the trigger plate where the tip of the fullcock notch tip rest when at full ****. (See the arrow in your pic below). Then as you pull the hammer back from the resting position, see if the halfcock notch tip "covers up" that score. If so, some filing of the halfcock notch tip would be in order.

This may take a few "file the tip", reassemble, try, file the tip, etc, etc.


View attachment 364163
Flintlocks don't have' hammers' there called 'cocks ' if some call them xxxx.s which happens when machines take over from common sense .
Rudyard's view
 
That lock is so crudely made, I would start by just smoothing up the parts and see what that does. It looks like a lot of slop between the tumbler and bridle. When things aren't properly fit in the first place, it is a crap shoot.
I didn't want to say that but you are right . When I was down in India Cawnpore you know, We used to call them' Gangees quality' Vis take it to the Ghat & chuck it in the Gangees But I didnt want to seem unkind .
Rudyard
 
There have been a lot of locks made without a fly. It's a part that is not needed with a single trigger.
As to the OP's lock questions about trigger travel, when the lock is in either full or half kock there should be a little play in the trigger. It doesn't need much, just enough so that the trigger is not tight up against the sear bar. When the trigger is held all the way back the kock should be able to travel all the way from full kock to rest without touching the tumbler notches. These functions will have to be checked with the gun assembled of course. If that all seems good then it's probably the half kock notch causing the problem. If not, it could be that the trigger bar is worn enough to not lift the sear bar far enough or there is some wood or something limiting the travel.
 
Hello friends! I have attached a picture + video of the (india made) lock of a brass blunderbuss I have. The problem I encounter is that pressing the trigger from full **** does not elicit the full action of the hammer, but rather, gets stuck on the half-**** notch.

Was wondering if someone can diagnose the problem and how I might fix it? Is it a problem of the mainspring? or the sear spring? or is the half **** notch too deep and should be filed down?

Many thanks in advance! :)
First question is:
Does the lock work off the gun?
If not, the half ‘****’ notch needs to be relieved a bit to allow the sear to clear that part of the tumbler.
If the lock does work off the gun some wood may need to be removed to allow the trigger to push the sear further upward.
As @The Crisco Kid said:
there should be a little play in the trigger. It doesn't need much, just enough so that the trigger is not tight up against the sear bar.

Good Luck! If you live near St Paul, MN I could probably help you out.
Snoot
 
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