hammer won't stay cocked

[fc]

 

[fc]

 

[Loyalist Dave]

and put some paper/cardboard shims in the bottom of the inlet and put the set triggers back in.

Modern playing cards make good shim stock as they are thin but are treated to stay stiff and to resist moisture. A deck of cards is a lifetime supply.

LD

 

[timothy prouty]

Does sear arm go below the lockplate wend the lock is out?

 

[Billnpatti]

You can do as Grenadier suggested and shim the trigger group. If this solves your problem, you are golden. Actually, this is something of a temporary fix. If shimming solves the problem, the real problem is with the engagement between the trigger bar and the sear bar where they make contact. The trigger metal is hardened so you will have to use a grinder to remove tiny amounts until you have relieved the contact between the trigger bar and sear bar. When the lock is in full ****, the sear bar should have a very slight gap between it and the trigger. If you can slip a playing card between the trigger and the sear at full ****, you have plenty of gap.

I recently replaced a T/C lock and trigger with an L&R lock and a R.E. Davis trigger and had the same problem as you are having. The shim under the trigger plate solved it and then I ground away a slight bit off the trigger until the problem went away and I still had very minimal take up in the trigger. I removed the shim, replaced the trigger guard and was off to the range. Problem solved. :thumbsup:

 

[Billnpatti]

It just occurred to me that you will be asking how you can slip a playing card between the trigger and sear bar with the gun assembled and the answer is that you can't. What you do is to grind off a tiny bit of the trigger bar and then reassemble the gun, Put it in full **** and feel the trigger. If there is a tiny bit of take up before the trigger contacts the sear bar and it feels like about a playing card thickness, you are good.

 

[crockett]

That shim issue. I think in some instances temperature changes or a stock drying out might change things. You might have a situation where the hammer catches and holds and at a future date it suddenly is causing a problem. Initially there may be sawdust in the bottom of the inlet that acts like a shim but later gets cleared away. In any event, the putting in of a shim is so fast and easy I would always check that out first. If you check past posts about this problem, maybe 70% or more of the time the shim solves the problem.

 

[fc]

Yea, the shim did it! I used aluminum from a can. Is the sear the bar sticking out horizontally from the lock itself? Thanks again!

 

[Artificer]

Is the sear the bar sticking out horizontally from the lock itself?

Yes, that is the tail or leg or arm (depending on what you want to call it) of the sear. That tail is what the set trigger bar pushes against to release the nose of the sear from the full **** notch.

Glad to see it fixed the problem.

Gus

 

[Gene L]

Actually, now that I think about it, my FL would **** but not release. The solution was still the same, though.