Have you had a chain fire with?

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After putting a few granulars powder on a metal surface, far more than would ever be left behind with proper loading, I used an eye dropper to place one drop of hoppes #9 directly on them then applied direct flame... So to temper nerves perhaps carrying an eye dropper of hoppes to apply a drop to the cylinder face after loading is a safe compromise to grease for anyone wanting to eliminate lubing the cylinder face.

Rusty
 
I have a dropper full of 10w30 I use when I am going to put multiple cylenders down range. Seems to be working rather well.
Normaly I just use Bore Butter.
Haven't had a chain fire in years. (did have one but it is not with in the parameters of the original question ~loose caps and I didn't properly grease~ so I have no clue which was the issue)
 
Well I used Crisco for years and never had a problem but to be honest I would be at a range and load the cylinder, grease the ends of the chambers, and shoot all six rounds without ever checking the ends of the chambers to see if the Crisco was still there. It was a messy business and after years of putting up with it I switched to the pre-lubed wads for that reason alone. Maybe the problem is with Crisco and not other lubes, or maybe those that have had the lube melt/burn off the remaining chamber ends before they are fired used a different type lube. I'm comfortable with both but now a days I like the wads simply because they are easier to use. I also carry a 36 Navy once in a while while deer hunting with the idea the revolver is good for rabbits, etc and in a really hot climate the Crisco can at least partially run out of a holstered gun and stain the holster- another reason I use the wads. I have a feeling there is probably a lot better lube than the Crisco I used. The Robert E. Lee Navy that is frequently discussed- if I recall the chamber ends were filled with something akin to red sealing wax.
 
aruger olkd arm and was a using an undesized ball. I won't do that again. Hank
 
An undersized ball is dangerous. Your chance of a chain fire is almost 100% and the ball will rattle down the barrel and acuracy will be non-existant. Furthermore the recoil from the first couple of rounds fired will knock your ball off the powder charge and forward of the face of the cylender and then advanceing the cylender will be imposible.
 
yes you're right.
a 'shaveing' of lead/bullet material should show when pressing the ball or slug into the chamber.
\ smearing stiff grease atop is a good idea too.
R.E. Lee had his '51 Colt .36 topped with a stiff beeswax and lard lube.
tight caps are just as important.
 
nipples will mushroom mostly from dry-fireing and also burn the flash hole just as sidelock/capper rifles will do.
the mushroom makes it difficult to fit caps on so some folk will try a larger (usually #11) cap.
 
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