I thought I'd ask since I'm a blade Smith and have all the necessary tools and equipment to do something like that. But I understand what you're saying. Do you have anybody in mind that might be able to be up to the task?
I make replacement springs for locks, I use 1085, and 80CRV2, 15N20 and 6150 stock to make springs, I leave the springs a little thicker in the back and taper them towards the lower leg. Lock makers all have different tricks, what i have found that works for me is doing a staggered / two temper. I temper at 600 and then again at 700, after air cooling between cycles.
sounds like you’ve got the right equipment,
I would normalize at around 1600 for 45 min, then let it air cool.
While heated red at around 1200-1300 you can open the legs slightly or end the lower leg further downward.
Heattreat to 1500, orange red color, i use an oil quench, quenching oil, i use fusion oil.
Temper back at 700-800 for 45 min to an hour.
*note if the mainspring already has a deep preload like on the grice lock or charleville locks, i wouldn’t mess with the spring, I’ve found that hte issue isn’t so much the shape of the spring but more so how its located on the plate. Sometimes their screw holes are set too high and sometimes the they’re set too close to the tumbler.