Help: ball, patch and powder stuck

[Armando]

Wasn't sure which forum to post this on.

After hunting with my 50 Hawken Woodsman, I normally go home and just unload by firing into a backstop.

Today I got rained on quite a bit, and when I got home I tried 4x with caps but could not get it to fire. (maybe my powder got wet?)

Haven't tried the ball puller which I have because everyone tells me its near impossible. Others recommend CO2 discharger but I don't know here to get the right one.

Its leaning up against my wall driving me crazy.

 

[Black Hand]

Use the puller - it isn't impossible...

 

[Stumpkiller]

Some work better than others. A good sharp tip to the end of the threads and a collar that centers it on the ball help.

I pull frequently after a hunt and toss the ball in for re-melt.

 

[coloradoclyde]

I have to ask what powder you were using?

Did you dry ball?

Normally I remove the nipple and put some powder in, replace nipple and fire....If it doesn't work the first time try again....

Ball pullers work best with a good steel range rod with a large pommel(handle ) and a buddy to give it yank. You can also tie it to something and then yank it.

 

[Ron LaClair]

Good advice from Clyde.

It's easier with a flintlock, just keep poking 4ff into the vent hole with your pick and she'll go Boom

 

[oldtrobh]

Hi , all , the problem I have found with most ball pullers is that forcing a screw of any kind into the ball just expands the ball tighter into the rifling and the screw threads are not coarse enough or tapered a bad combination ... what you need is a drill fitted with a collar so that it gets centered on the ball and is the size of the core of a self tapping screw drill the hole first then put in the screw .. Also before starting pore water down the barrel to soften things up and the ball will come out a lot easier

 

[Tb54]

I’ve only had to do this once after huntin all day in the rain, but I also had to pull the nipple, dump some powder in, replace the nipple and cap, and fire it. Think maybe I had to do it twice.

 

[azmntman]

I would get the C02. Its so quick you'll be amazed. It does zip that sucker out though, point in a safe direction. Have used ball puller may times too, it works

 

[Dr5x]

Treat it the same way you would if you loaded without powder. (which may be the case).
Remove the nipple and fill the ignition channel with powder. replace the nipple and fire one cap, aiming down range. This tiny charge will move the obstruction a bit allowing you to get a larger amount of powder down the ignition chanel. Fire another cap and this should blow the blockage out.
As we are not sure if there actually IS the original powder charge in there, be sure to always fire down range or into a backstop.

Dr5x

Wasn't sure which forum to post this on.

After hunting with my 50 Hawken Woodsman, I normally go home and just unload by firing into a backstop.

Today I got rained on quite a bit, and when I got home I tried 4x with caps but could not get it to fire. (maybe my powder got wet?)

Haven't tried the ball puller which I have because everyone tells me its near impossible. Others recommend CO2 discharger but I don't know here to get the right one.

Its leaning up against my wall driving me crazy.

 

[Grenadier1758]

You should always verify that the ball is seated on the powder. If you add a tiny bit of powder and the ball is not cleared, add more powder, reseat the ball and fire the ball.

If you use a CO2 discharger, be sure to clean the bore as some powder may be left and you will be increasing the powder charge. Do the cleaning even if you forgot to add powder. I just like to fully know the condition of the bore after having to remove a ball either by shooting it out, using a CO2 discharger, or using a threaded ball puller. Fire a cap or two to ensure the flash channel is clear of fouling or residue.

 

[glidingdoc]

Can anyone post a photo of the "puller" and the CO2 method?
Steve

 

[Crewdawg445]

Use the puller - it isn't impossible...

Absolutely agree, no need to over complicate a easily resolved situation.

Why buy a fancy CO2 doohicky when you affix a puller to the rod end, wrap a leather thong around the raming rod then to a stout sapling or tree and "pull". Easy, nothing to buy besides a ball puller if you are unable to fashion one of your own, even then that will only set you back a few dollars. IMO if you practice traditional MZ a CO2 deal has no place around, along with allot of the other modern trinkets and junk.

Take it for what it's worth but a ball puller is simple, quick and efficient.

 

[Black Hand]

Absolutely agree, no need to over complicate a easily resolved situation.

Why buy a fancy CO2 doohicky when you affix a puller to the rod end, wrap a leather thong around the raming rod then to a stout sapling or tree and "pull". Easy, nothing to buy besides a ball puller if you are unable to fashion one of your own, even then that will only set you back a few dollars. IMO if you practice traditional MZ a CO2 deal has no place around, along with allot of the other modern trinkets and junk.

Take it for what it's worth but a ball puller is simple, quick and efficient.

Please ensure the ramrod end is pinned before using a puller. The first time I tried to pull a ball, the end came off the crappy rod that arrived with my 54 caliber Cabela's special...

One can buy one of those double-sided ended screws from the hardware store that have machine thread on one end and wood screw thread on the other for less than $1. They are longer and less fat than many pullers on the market. I even went as far as to further slim the tip and deepen the thread so it wasn't so difficult to screw into the ball. I suggest a bore-sized leather washer so the puller stays centered.

 

[Grenadier1758]

Just what I was going to suggest. Take your ramrod to the hardware store to be sure the machine threads of the double ended screws fit the ramrod.

 

[Crewdawg445]

Absolutely and pinned! Guess you can't "assume" others know that. Unfortunately I'm not sure those production companies pin the rods that accompany the mass produced rifles... However obviously we all know that is a very easy task to accomplish and one that should be done, even on a el-cheapo.

 

[Juice Jaws]

Absolutely agree, no need to over complicate a easily resolved situation.

Why buy a fancy CO2 doohicky when you affix a puller to the rod end, wrap a leather thong around the raming rod then to a stout sapling or tree and "pull". Easy, nothing to buy besides a ball puller if you are unable to fashion one of your own, even then that will only set you back a few dollars. IMO if you practice traditional MZ a CO2 deal has no place around, along with allot of the other modern trinkets and junk.

Take it for what it's worth but a ball puller is simple, quick and efficient.

I agree, muzzle loading is not that hard. I have pulled many balls from smooth bore and rifle barrels. Put some liquid lube down the bore, turn ball puller clock wise in till seated and then pulled ball out. And like said above, best to have your ram rod ends pin. All of mine are.

 

[Greenjoytj]

Hi , all , the problem I have found with most ball pullers is that forcing a screw of any kind into the ball just expands the ball tighter into the rifling and the screw threads are not coarse enough or tapered a bad combination ... what you need is a drill fitted with a collar so that it gets centered on the ball and is the size of the core of a self tapping screw drill the hole first then put in the screw .. Also before starting pore water down the barrel to soften things up and the ball will come out a lot easier

I built a a ball drill by drilling 5/64” hole into the center of a brass jag, drilled all the way down till the drill touched the top of the steel 10-32 screw fitting. I cut off part of the drill shank shortening the drill so just .350” of the drill point protruded from the front of the jag. But 2 deep nicks in the shortened drill shank to hold glue. Mixed up some JB Weld epoxy poked some glue down the drilled hole and smeared glue on the drill shank an inserted it into the hole. 24 hrs later I have a special tool to drill a ball so the puller has starting pilot hole.
The tapered screw of the ball puller gets a good deep start.
I’ve found that balls that have been loaded for a day or 2 come out easier than they when in.
I cross pin my ram rod end fittings with small 1” brad nails cut off and filed smooth.
I turn the ram rod with a “T” handle.

 

[buickmarti]

I feel your pain. Took my 45 out of the gun case to clean it before hunting season. Every thing went great till I decided to do one more dry patch. Boom stuck at bottom of barrel. Did my normal procedure of hooking ram rod on something and doing light jarring pulls but rod came out with no tip. Tip was pinned but wood rod broke at pin.

 

[Crewdawg445]

I feel your pain. Took my 45 out of the gun case to clean it before hunting season. Every thing went great till I decided to do one more dry patch. Boom stuck at bottom of barrel. Did my normal procedure of hooking ram rod on something and doing light jarring pulls but rod came out with no tip. Tip was pinned but wood rod broke at pin.

With these cheap production guns they use cheap stock wood and cheap/ flimsy wood for the ramming rod which isn't suitable for the purpose. A good hard hickory rod is worth making in place of the factory offering.

 

[Dave Marsh]

Can anyone post a photo of the "puller" and the CO2 method?
Steve

This is one that Cabelas sells. You won't be sorry.