Help finding finishing oil.

[Danny Ross]

I have looked for a local source for Kelly's finishing oil. At least that is what it says on the bottle. You rub it on and it drys while you are doing it. I got the original bottle from Tip Curtis, when I did he said you could find it paint stores but I haven't been able to. Any ideas? DANNY

 

[Fishdog64]

Google it , came right up.

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

FWIW I use Arm-R-Seal satin and gloss finishing oils from my local Woodcraft Supply and they are the best finish I've ever used! I used to do the 10-12 coats of Tru-Oil w/ rotten stone to get a satin non-glossy finish, then switched to Formby's satin tung oil, but once they changed their formula and it was harder to find, I needed a ready and available source.

A local cabinet/furniture maker, who makes premium, custom high $$ furniture, turned me on to the Arm-R-Seal wiping finishes. I wet sand them in, building up gloss coats, buffed in-between coats with light gray Scotchbrite and burnishing burlap, then apply satin for the last few coats if a non-glossy sheen is desired.

The chatoyance and depth it gives to fiddleback or tiger-striped maple has to be seen to be believed!

 

[Darkhorse]

I use Jim Chambers Traditional oil stock finish. Hands down the best gunstock finish I've ever used. http://www.flintlocks.com/parts.htm

 

[LRB]

:metoo: Best I've used!

 

[Billnpatti]

I think Tru Oil and Linspeed are great finishes when you follow the directions carefully. I've never used Chambers stock finish but if Wick says it's good, I'll believe it. I have also found that Minwax Clear Satin Wipe On Poly applied in several very light coats gives a great, very attractive, highly durable finish. Apply any of the finishes with your finger tips. Do not use a rag because it will leave lint in your finish. The advantage to the Minwax is its cost relative to the other finishes. It is a lot less expensive and readily available in most any paint store. I got mine at Home Depot.

It seems that everyone has their favorite, I think they all will result in a very nice finish. The secret is in how you apply it. It takes many very light coats, each rubbed in well and allowed to dry over night. Buff very lightly with 0000 steel wool between coats, thoroughly wipe off all signs of dust and apply another very light coat well rubbed in. Keep doing this building up your finish until you have anywhere from 5 to 10 or 12 coats. Allow it to cure for a few weeks (you can use it in the mean time, though). After it has thoroughly cured use some rotten stone mixed with a little bit of either water or oil to rub out your finish. I have had a hard time finding rotten stone in reasonable quantities. Most places that have it sell it in large quantities, far more than you have any use for. If you can't find rotten stone in reasonable quantities, just buy some Birchwood Casey's Stock Sheen. It will give you an eye popping final finish to your stock.

And that's how I do it. It ain't the only way but it is how I do it.

 

[Vaino]

Seeing I don't like too much shine on gunstocks and also don't like to remove the shine w/ pumice or steel wool, I apply 2 different products which produce hardly any shine and looks like there's hardly any finish on the wood.

The stock shown below has 2 coats each of the 2 different products and nothing was done after the last coat dried......and have hunted in the rain w/ LRs like the one shown w/o any damage to the stock. I guess we all have our favorite finishes and that's the result w/ mine.....Fred

 

[JohnN]

May I ask what you use because that is a beautiful finish. Also, why does Chambers charge so much to ship liquids ? Nobody else seems to.

 

[Billnpatti]

Also, why does Chambers charge so much to ship liquids ? Nobody else seems to.

I checked the Chambers website to see what they charge for shipping liquids. According to what they say on their price sheet, the $13 charge is what UPS charges. So, that high shipping price is set not by Chambers but by UPS. If that is correct, you will pay that no matter where you buy it unless you can find it in a local store. I don't know if USPS or FedEx charges that much for shipping liquids. :idunno:

 

[Vaino]

LMF sealer first and then Wahkon Bay Trucoat.....Fred

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

FWIW for those Arm-R-Seal 'wiping varnish' hand-rubbed oil finishes I posted about, I use the gloss finish for all but the last or last 2 coats. Whereas they are chemically formulated the same, applying the satin to knock down the sheen for the final coats doesn't hide or inhibit any grain or natural chatoyance from coming through.

Works slick and beautiful! It's the process that the best furniture makers use for finishing fancy figured woods.

 

[JohnN]

I've bought stains from TOW before and don't remember paying $13 shipping. Maybe they should use USPS.