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Help! I just want the best finish remover.

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Pittsburghunter

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I have two projects I am working on. A very good condition rifle stock (walnut) and a small maple table and both need to be brought down to bare wood without sanding if possible.
 
Your best bet is to test what's on the furniture piece with a cue tip in a place you can't see.

First test with denatured alcohol for shellac, then test with laquer thinner for laquer if not shellac, then test with methylene chloride (paint and varnish remover) for varnish if not laquer.

The use the appropriate product for that finish.
 
Zip Strip or Strypeeze both work well. I have to use Strypeeze all the time...too much actually...
 
Homer Formby's. A wonderful refinishing product that lets you remove only as much of the finish as you want. Very easy to use. Use in well ventilated area, as usual.
 
Thank you that gives me a starting point. I guess I should add the stock I will be stripping is a 70's T/C Renegade that looks to have some real nice wood under the old factory finsh.

I really like the look of the stock Roundball is redoing with the True Oil.
 
There are lots of good paint strippers around. What's best is entirely subjective. Go to any large hardware store and start reading the labels on the various types to find one that matches your needs. There are varnish strippers, shellac removers, paint strippers, combinations and probably even more. We would need a lot more info on your application before making any recommendation. Sanding is never recommended for removing finishes.
 
Although it is toxic, and must be used in a well ventilated area( OUTDOORS!) Acetone works to strip just about anything. If you are trying to remove some unknown factory finish, try that. Expect some kind of paint rather than stain to be used on many gunstocks by factories, particularly the cheaper, mass marketed varieties. It will come off with the finish. Once you see what the wood is, and what grain exists, you can decide either to repaint it brown, or whatever, and refinish it after the paint dries, or bring out the grain such as it is, with stains and dyes, and then finish the wood. I did this on an inexpensive .22 rifle that had a stock made of birch, but which had some nice grain under brown paint. I used stains to highlight the grain, and then hand rubbed an oil finish into the stock. If I had charged for my labor, the cost would have exceeded the retail price of the gun many times over. But, I was doing the stock for a friend, who wanted the gun cleaned up so he could set it aside for a grandson, and, I was looking for a project to do. This was the best sow's ear that I could turn into a silk purse that week. He didn't recognize his gun when I returned it to him! It was a new, and oiled gun for him, and I suspect he took it to the farm to try it out himself the next weekend. He was surely proud to have that gun with its new finish. It was all he could talk about over coffee the next morning.
 
No doubt about it, Acetone will do a number on almost any type of paint.

It also evaporates faster than a ice cube in hell. It is not only poisonous it is very flamable and I've been told (by doctors) it can be absorbed thru the skin where it enjoys attacking the liver.

Don't get me wrong, I use Acetone to degrease parts before browining/blueing/Epoxying etc but I treat it with a great deal of respect.

At the moment, I've forgotton the brand name of the paint remover that seemed to work the best. It came in a Gold colored can with Red writing on it and it was not the cheapest stuff on the shelf.
It was a thick snot like material that was brushed onto the surface.
The instructions suggested that it be used outdoors because it did give off some fumes (Tolunal?) and it would start eating skin if it got on it.

I'm suprised ole Roundball or someone else hasn't piped up and suggested that you take it to a professional wood finisher who strips paint off of fine furniture and such.
Although it cost about $20, the work they did was flawless.
 
Zonie said "I'm suprised ole Roundball or someone else hasn't piped up and suggested that you take it to a professional wood finisher who strips paint off of fine furniture and such.
Although it cost about $20, the work they did was flawless"
Additionally the mess and cleanup you would have is more than worth the price, and ya might get a two fer price. I've always found that sanding is necessary with the hardware store strippers, but nothing but a tack cloth for the commercial places. Bill
 
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