I'm new to muzzleloading and recently refurbished a CVA Kentucky rifle...45 cal. I took it to the range and got off a few shots then the third I couldn't get to fire...and I tried after many caps. I read in here to pull the nipple and put in a small amount of powder...this worked! However, I'm still having some caps not fire and even when they do it doesn't always fire the load. I'm going to give it a good cleaning with water, patches and a light oil...is that the correct method? My other question is I'm using a 440 ball, .015 lubed patch and Pyrodex FFG. Should I be using BP instead of Pyrodex.
Help with CVA Kentucky rifle
- Thread starter treg
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Fire channel is probably clogged with gunk. After you clean it stand it on its muzzle overnite with a paper towel under it. It will help the liquids drain away from the channel. I was surprised how much drained out when I started doing this.
Also when shooting, just shoot. Any cleaning should be done with minimal liquids at the range while shooting. I put a moist cleaning patch on the ramrod as I push the ball down. Pretty much the only cleaning I do during a range session. Keeps the liquids out of the powder chamber and combining with the leftovers creating a chunk of gunk there and fail to fires.
Also when shooting, just shoot. Any cleaning should be done with minimal liquids at the range while shooting. I put a moist cleaning patch on the ramrod as I push the ball down. Pretty much the only cleaning I do during a range session. Keeps the liquids out of the powder chamber and combining with the leftovers creating a chunk of gunk there and fail to fires.
longcruise
70 Cal.
yes I have both issues. I have only put 4 shots through this gun...when I cleared the 3rd one with removing the nipple method I then tried another. The cap failed once, then fired on the second try but the load didn't shoot, then on my third attempt it fired properly with a slight delay.
I'm thinking the advice above about the fire channel being gunked up is a good place to start.
Also check the screw that holds the lock in place. Pull the hammer back and see if you notice a slight silver on the head of the screw. If the lock bolt is screwed in to far it will slow the hammer fall and not strike the cap with enough force to ignite. Just back it out a turn or so. Also check the hammer face for spent caps. Guy at our range had big issues with caps. Found 5 spent caps in the hammer face. Acts as a shock absorber.
Another issue is the nipple might be just a couple thou oversized for the caps. First strike fully seats the cap, send fires it off. Very common issue. Just put the nipple in a drill, spin it with a file or emery paper. Just need to take off a little. Or nipple could have a small crown from dryfiring slightly deforming the nipple. All very common issues and most folks on here have had em at one time or another.
Sam squanch
69 Cal.
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Dump the pyrodex, if you can. Real black will work much better. When you load the powder charge, SMACK the breech area with you hand to settle the powder where it needs to go. If you can’t get real black, pyrodex pistol powder may work for you. I know stuff is hard to get right now. Hopefully it won’t get worse…..
Are you sure the caps are good?
If/when you get it unloaded I suggest snapping a few caps through it to ascertain they are good. Might want to ascertain the hammer is hitting the cap hard enough to ignite it.
Are you sure the powder is good? Pyrodex has been problematic in the past especially if its been open for a while. It is often more difficult to ignite than black powder.
Are you sure the nipple isn't clogged?
Second, you must ascertain the entire flash channel is clear of gunk from the nipple out the muzzle. You can do this by removing the nipple, then run some air from an air compressor from through the flash hole and see that its coming out the muzzle. Or, if you are certain its unloaded, and it hasn't been shot for a while, you can blow through the end of the muzzle out through the nipple or remove the nipple all together.
If you suspect the flash hole or breech area is clogged then you can remove the nipple and run a pipe cleaner through the hole.
I myself run some lacquer thinner through the flash hole, let it set for a minute or two, then blow it out with and air compressor.
If/when you get it unloaded I suggest snapping a few caps through it to ascertain they are good. Might want to ascertain the hammer is hitting the cap hard enough to ignite it.
Are you sure the powder is good? Pyrodex has been problematic in the past especially if its been open for a while. It is often more difficult to ignite than black powder.
Are you sure the nipple isn't clogged?
Second, you must ascertain the entire flash channel is clear of gunk from the nipple out the muzzle. You can do this by removing the nipple, then run some air from an air compressor from through the flash hole and see that its coming out the muzzle. Or, if you are certain its unloaded, and it hasn't been shot for a while, you can blow through the end of the muzzle out through the nipple or remove the nipple all together.
If you suspect the flash hole or breech area is clogged then you can remove the nipple and run a pipe cleaner through the hole.
I myself run some lacquer thinner through the flash hole, let it set for a minute or two, then blow it out with and air compressor.
Both the Pyrodex and the caps are new...so hopefully that means they're ok. I'll get to cleaning and blowing out the nipple area and barrel this week and head back to the range next weekend.
I'll try the lacquer thinner too!
Just be careful of not getting any lacquer thinner near the stock of finish. Best if you removed the barrel for that operation.
New caps can still be bad I reckon.
Either way, the air compressor will tell the story as to if there's a plug somewhere in the system. With 100 PSI or more it should be enough to blow any dirt around from the garage or concrete floor. You could also put a piece of paper down and point the muzzle at it when running compressed air through it. If its partly closed then a stiffer pipe cleaner and lacquer thinner should do the trick. Again, allow the lacquer thinner to set in the breech area for a few minutes to do its work. Then blow it out with compressed air followed up by dry patches.
If those caps are CCI there is a chance they could be some of the bad ones that got out. Odds are your issue is the above comments, junk in fire channel and maybe oversize nipple. On the off chance it could be bad caps this video explains what to look for.
Thanks for posting that video.
So far, I've not had an issue with what few new caps I've gotten. I did have one very weak fire while squirrel hunting. Pretty sure it was a bad cap but I cannot prove it.
This is all the more reason why I'm considering making my own caps.
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@ treg,
Welcome from California.
What caps are you using?
Welcome from California.
What caps are you using?
Stykbow
50 Cal.
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When swabbing between shots try to keep the ramrod from going all of the way to the bottom. It will push fouling down and plug the flash channel, Both of my boy's CVA,s have this problem. Keeping the ramrod from bottoming out solves the problem.Also the stock CVA nipples are soft and will Flatten out at the top. You want a sharp edge. Since the nipples are soft yopu can easily "sharpen " them by putting them in a drill chuck and turning them against a tool stone.
Issues with Pyrodex are most often slow to fire or hangfires. To be sure, some people have no problem with Pyrodex and others have consistent hangfires. In some locales, Pyrodex is the only black powder substitute to be found other than Triple 7. Both seem to fire better with hotter caps and a nipple (Hot Shot, Red Hot, or Spitfire) designed to send more heat to the powder. @treg' s CVA Kentucky has the drum and nipple configuration that has a lot of twists between the nipple seat and the powder charge. It may be a breech that is configured with the notorious chambered breech which is prone to getting clogged with fouling and old grease. When the cap fails to fire on the first strike but does for the second, it's a nipple problem to be addressed as described by @jdw276.
CCI #11
