My 13 year old hunting buddy brought me a fllipietta 44 cap and ball revolver that his grandfather found .It has a brass frame and a 12" barrell ( i am quessing ). The cylinder does not rotate when you try to cock the hammer back. so I just trying to figure out why . I took out the plunger assembly (Do not know propper term) when it is removed the cylider acts as it should .I notice the cylinder quide rod has a flat side and when the cylider rotates it hits where the plunger assembly screw is. Other than this the revolver seams to function fine . It needs a good cleaning . I have no exeperence these revolvers as was wondering if any of you have had this experence and how do you get the cylider out for cleaning .Any help advice and precausions appreciated. Thanks
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help with fllipietta 44
- Thread starter drumgool
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Welcome to the fold. Be careful, BP smoke is adictive. :wink:
Here's some reading for you. Hope it helps. http://www.angelfire.com/ny5/shenandoah/Choy.html
Here's some reading for you. Hope it helps. http://www.angelfire.com/ny5/shenandoah/Choy.html
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R.M. Thanks for the link that helps with the disasembly. and a good read.
When I got home this eavning I disasebled the entire revolver all the works but the cylinder pin will not budge . After I got the hammer out I took a punch and I gave it a light tap no luck. When you rotate the cylinder the pin rotates with it. My line of thinking on this is the flat spot on the pin is held in check by the loading lever and plunger assembly and the cylinder shounld rotate on the pin with out it rotating . So the cylinder is stuck to the pin. If this is correct let me know. I put some kroil to try to unstick the pin and will let it sit a while . Any other suggestions apprecitiated.
When I got home this eavning I disasebled the entire revolver all the works but the cylinder pin will not budge . After I got the hammer out I took a punch and I gave it a light tap no luck. When you rotate the cylinder the pin rotates with it. My line of thinking on this is the flat spot on the pin is held in check by the loading lever and plunger assembly and the cylinder shounld rotate on the pin with out it rotating . So the cylinder is stuck to the pin. If this is correct let me know. I put some kroil to try to unstick the pin and will let it sit a while . Any other suggestions apprecitiated.
The cylinder pin should not rotate with the cylinder under any circumstance.
After re-reading your first post I get the feeling that your gun is the closed top Remington style.
This style will have a "top strap" above the top of the cylinder and for me to answer your questions I need to know if we are talking about the same style of gun.
The Colt style of pistol does not have a "top strap" leaving the entire top of the cylinder exposed.
Which style of gun do you have?
After re-reading your first post I get the feeling that your gun is the closed top Remington style.
This style will have a "top strap" above the top of the cylinder and for me to answer your questions I need to know if we are talking about the same style of gun.
The Colt style of pistol does not have a "top strap" leaving the entire top of the cylinder exposed.
Which style of gun do you have?
Without waiting for an answer I'm going to assume your gun is a Remington or a Spiller & Burr with a closed frame.
As I mentioned, the cylinder pin should not rotate with the cylinder and it seems to be the problem here.
It is likely that some rust or corrosion has developed between the pin and the cylinder so the first thing you need to do is to get some penetrating oil down into that area.
There are several different brands of penetrating oil that is supposed to work well with rust so you might go to the store and look at what they have.
Thoroughly drench the area and let it rest overnight. Then repeat the drenching.
If your gun is totally disassembled except for the cylinder you should be able to see the rear of the cylinder pin thru the hammer slot.
The cylinder pin is slightly larger than 1/4 inch in diameter so if you can find a piece of 1/4 inch threaded stock like a screw that is over 1 1/2 inches long you can place the end of the screw thru the hammer slot against the rear of the cylinder pin.
Using this screw (or a similar sized piece of steel or brass stock), some determined hammering should drive the pin forward and out of the cylinder.
Once that pin is out, the cylinder should drop easily out of the frame.
By the way, the cylinder will only rotate when the gun's hammer is at the half cock position.
With the hammer down or fully cocked the cylinder bolt will be raised up out of the bottom of the frame, engaging the notches in the cylinder to keep it from rotating.
As I mentioned, the cylinder pin should not rotate with the cylinder and it seems to be the problem here.
It is likely that some rust or corrosion has developed between the pin and the cylinder so the first thing you need to do is to get some penetrating oil down into that area.
There are several different brands of penetrating oil that is supposed to work well with rust so you might go to the store and look at what they have.
Thoroughly drench the area and let it rest overnight. Then repeat the drenching.
If your gun is totally disassembled except for the cylinder you should be able to see the rear of the cylinder pin thru the hammer slot.
The cylinder pin is slightly larger than 1/4 inch in diameter so if you can find a piece of 1/4 inch threaded stock like a screw that is over 1 1/2 inches long you can place the end of the screw thru the hammer slot against the rear of the cylinder pin.
Using this screw (or a similar sized piece of steel or brass stock), some determined hammering should drive the pin forward and out of the cylinder.
Once that pin is out, the cylinder should drop easily out of the frame.
By the way, the cylinder will only rotate when the gun's hammer is at the half cock position.
With the hammer down or fully cocked the cylinder bolt will be raised up out of the bottom of the frame, engaging the notches in the cylinder to keep it from rotating.
The revolver is a closed frame not a open top.
Thanks for your reply you comfirmed what I was thinking that the pin should not rotate with the cylinder .I have it coted with kroil oil hope tommorow I can get it free and cleaned up . I may need to get a nipple wrench they are probally stuck.
Thanks for your reply you comfirmed what I was thinking that the pin should not rotate with the cylinder .I have it coted with kroil oil hope tommorow I can get it free and cleaned up . I may need to get a nipple wrench they are probally stuck.
Soak them too. 
I am a bit confused though.
You said that with the screw that holds the loading lever removed thereby clearing the flat on the cylinder pin that the pin and cylinder will rotate?
This, IMO is rather strange because the cylinder pin should have a fairly pronounced T head on the outer end that engages two cuts in the front of the frame. This "T" should prevent the cylinder pin from turning unless, the original cylinder pin was lost and replaced with just a shaft with one side flatted off to clear that screw.
If that is the case, it may explain why the cylinder is "frozen up" on the pin.
Put another way, if some previous person replaced the T shaped cylinder pin with an oversized pin and pounded it into the cylinder "just to hold it in place" then pounding it back out may be in order.
If the cylinder pin does not have the T shaped head on it you may have to buy a replacement.
Dixie Gunworks (and others) sell a replacement pin.
I am a bit confused though.
You said that with the screw that holds the loading lever removed thereby clearing the flat on the cylinder pin that the pin and cylinder will rotate?
This, IMO is rather strange because the cylinder pin should have a fairly pronounced T head on the outer end that engages two cuts in the front of the frame. This "T" should prevent the cylinder pin from turning unless, the original cylinder pin was lost and replaced with just a shaft with one side flatted off to clear that screw.
If that is the case, it may explain why the cylinder is "frozen up" on the pin.
Put another way, if some previous person replaced the T shaped cylinder pin with an oversized pin and pounded it into the cylinder "just to hold it in place" then pounding it back out may be in order.
If the cylinder pin does not have the T shaped head on it you may have to buy a replacement.
Dixie Gunworks (and others) sell a replacement pin.
The loading lever screw just holds the loading lever in place . You can install the screw without the lever and the cylinder still rotates. The flat side of the cyliner pin has to be down in order to instal the loading lever assembly .The loading lever where the screw hole is has a flat surface that mates with the flat surface of the cylinder pin. Sorry for the confussion I get in a hurry do not always explain things clearly.
Someone at some time has put this revolver in a vice without protection and scuffed the brass I originally thought they may have crushed the frame a little and parts where binding . But after dissasembly it seams only cosmetic.
I would love to get this revolver in good working safe condition .My hunting buddy who is 13
loves to hunt fish and shoot . I have never seen a kid who is this crazy about the outdoors. I know he would realy enjoy this revolver if I can get it working properly. Thanks for the help.
Someone at some time has put this revolver in a vice without protection and scuffed the brass I originally thought they may have crushed the frame a little and parts where binding . But after dissasembly it seams only cosmetic.
I would love to get this revolver in good working safe condition .My hunting buddy who is 13
loves to hunt fish and shoot . I have never seen a kid who is this crazy about the outdoors. I know he would realy enjoy this revolver if I can get it working properly. Thanks for the help.
Dave Rosenthal
70 Cal.
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Zonie,
What you guys are working on is the brass-framed '58 Buffalo Remmy. I have the stainless model. Both come with an adjustable rear sight, and both 12" barreled copies are made by Pietta.
Dave
What you guys are working on is the brass-framed '58 Buffalo Remmy. I have the stainless model. Both come with an adjustable rear sight, and both 12" barreled copies are made by Pietta.
Dave
The markings that don't make any sense are the Italian proof marks and the date of the proof test.
There will be two proof marks. A star in a circle over a shield (provisional proof) and a star over the letters "PN" (black powder proof).
The date of the test consists of either roman numerals or capital letters.
To determine the date and to gain more information about the proof marks follow this link to our Information area http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/236956/
There will be two proof marks. A star in a circle over a shield (provisional proof) and a star over the letters "PN" (black powder proof).
The date of the test consists of either roman numerals or capital letters.
To determine the date and to gain more information about the proof marks follow this link to our Information area http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/236956/
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Well I got the cylider pin out last night and started cleaning so far so good.It will take me a few days of cleaning to get it looking good . If it didn't have the vice marks in the bottom of the frame I believe I could make it look almost brand new.
I orderd a nipple wrench and a ball mold for it this morning,So if I can remember how to put it back together I should be test firing next week somtime.
Thanks for the help.
I orderd a nipple wrench and a ball mold for it this morning,So if I can remember how to put it back together I should be test firing next week somtime.
Thanks for the help.
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