1. What type of powder(s) can I use
You can use ffg real black powder or a substitute such as Pyrodex RS. The substitues are easier to find because of shipping concerns on real black powder- it is an explosive whereas the others burn.
2. On a fifty caliber, 70 to 90 grains depending on hunting or target range. Be sure to use a powder measure NOT attached to a flask. Those measures on the flask, that speeds things up but still transfer the flask charge to another measure. There are measures with cut off tops that a lot of people like.
3. You will be surprised at the fouling in the bore. If you shoot a conical the first of the day will go down okay but once all the fouling is in the bore you'll need to swab between every shot or it can be very hard to seat another conical. The conical also leaves lead fouling in the bore you'll have to clean out. The conical also raises the internal pressures, on larger conicals you'll have to cut back on the powder charge to be safe, the conical travels at a lower muzzle velocity than the muzzle velocity of a patched round ball. A conical is really best for a longer range shot.
The patched round ball starts out fast but velocity drops off more quickly than a conical, figure up to 70 yards the patched round ball (PRB) is better. The patch around the ball prevents lead fouling in the bore, the PRB is easy to reload, you don't have to swab between shots, the PRB is a lot cheaper, the PRB doesn't raise internal pressures GET THE IDEA? Use a PRB unless you are doing some type of long range hunting.
4. First, I'd run a patch or two with rubbing alcohol up and down the bore to get rid of all oils, etc. Some oils when subjected to the heat of fire turn into a brown tar that can be the devil to clean. Next I'd snap a cap on an unloaded gun. Point the muzzle at a blade of grass or some soft sand. You'll be surprised the cap alone is powerful enough to move the grass or dimple the sand. If such doesn't occur the nipple is plugged. You need to clean it out with a wire or snap another cap or two.
To load, pour the charge into a measure and the measure down the bore, then put a pre-lubed (buy them that way to start) patch over the muzzle and a ball in the center, put the nub of a short starter over the ball and give the short starter a whack to seat the ball. Use the long end of the short starter to get the ball down as far as possible. Now use the ramrod. You don't want to snap the ramrod so "choke up" on it and push it down bit by bit. When the ball is on the powder NO DEAD AIR SPACE, mark that spot on the rod for future reloading.
Get the muzzle downrange, cap the nipple, fire the gun.
After a few shots, maybe 5 with a PRB, you might have to swab the bore to get rid of some fouling. This swabbing can actually push fouling down the bore and plug the nipple/drum so to start at least, when ever you swab, after the swab but before reloading- snap a cap on the nipple to blow out any fouling. Once again aim at a blade of grass or soft sand. If you do this hang fires and misfired will be pretty much eliminated.
5. Only the residue from black powder and black powder substitutes is corrosive. If you are out hunting and didn't fire the weapon and want to unload it, get a CO2 dispenser. This saves you having to clean the gun.
Normal cleaning. Take the barrel off the gun and stick the drum end in a bucket of hot soapy water and run the ramrod in and out of the bore. The cloth patch will seal tight and suck water up and down the bore. As long as you were just shooting PRB.s that's about it. The hot water heats the bore and the heat dries out any water although you need to oil right away. Some folks use cold water and prefer it. Ramrods are actually sort of too short for easy cleaning, use a regular cleaning rod.
I'd take the lock off and maybe brush the inner parts. If you have an air blaster/canned air/etc. use that but not really needed.
