Help with skirted rear ramrod pipe

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bioprof

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I'm getting ready to install a rear ramrod pipe. It has a fairly flimsy skirt that bends very easily. Any suggestions for how to hold down the skirt in the inlay. I have it inlayed flush with the stock. Would it be wrong to put a little epoxy underneath the skirt to hold it in? Would this make it too hard to replace if it ever got damaged? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
some originals have little brass pins holding the skirt down. I bend it so that the tail sits down "first" then when it's pinned into place it is under tension at the tail.
 
No it won't hurt anything to put some epoxy under it or some Miceobed under it & lots of builders do it. If you have to replace it later (and you most likely never will) all you have to do is heat an iron & touch it for a minute & the epoxy will let go.

First, put it all in place, have the Entrypipe pinned in with the retainer pins & Make Sure the RR will slide into the RR hole thru the entrypipe easily. If it will not, you need to aquire this first......... Make sure your tail will not bend in too deep if you overinlet...... If it does, you will need a lil tiny sliver of wood to hold it up so it will not go to deep.

Then you are ready to clean the inside of the tail with some 150 grip sandpaper & make X hashes in it (the part being glued) put the epoxy on both surfaces (not too much, just a thumbnails diameter worth) put the entrypipe in & pin it with the retainer pins, make sure the tail went down into the epoxy (again, not too deep) & into the wood where ya want it. Put a piece of waxed paper over it & now a small piece of wood and then slide a rubber band over the stock & small wood block to hold the tail down into place. Now turn the rifle back over so it is horizontal with the barrel channel up, so the epoxy levels out & it doesn't drip into the barrel channel & block it.

Now keep in mind, just enough glue or Microbed to glue it down & a piece about the size of the thumbnail is adequate, don't go crazy with it or you will have to drill out the glue with a RR drill & that gets touchy with the brass piece on there.

:m2c:
 
I have another silly question about a problem that I ran into trying to pin the ramrod pipe. I've put the pin in several times and the ramrod pipe fits nice and tightly. When I went to cut the 3/32" steel pin to the right length, my hacksaw wouldn't even touch it! I tried and tried, but I couldn't even so much as put a scratch on it. What could I use to cut it? I don't have a pair of bolt cutters.
 
Not knowing what tools you have, here are a couple choices for cutting your hardened pin: 1. Abrasive cutoff wheel in a Dremel-type hand grinder. 2. If it's that hard it's also fairly brittle. Use the corner of a file to cut a small notch (make it a hair long so you can even it). Then put the "keeper" end of the rod in a vise with the notch just showing. Use a pair of pliers to snap off the excess rod. Then use a file or grinder to clean up the end and bring it to exact length. You'll probably also want to put just a little chamfer on each end to make it go into its hole easier and to keep from chipping wood whenever it is removed from the stock.

Dave
 
That is real easy. Toss the pin in the trash can & go get a box of #6 finish nails & use them, cut them to what ya want & go on. I have used the for years & have yet to have a single problem with them.

:results:
 
Thanks. You guys on this board are great. I don't know what I'd do without all this sage advice. :master: I had a set of dremel tips that I bought to use on my cordless drill, but didn't even think of the cutoff wheel. Tried it and it worked great. I agree that steel pins for ramrod pipes are probably overkill, but that was what I got with the part set that I ordered from TOTW.

Do most of you put a little bit of wood putty in the ends of the holes or do you just leave them as is?
 
I just put together a Beck Boy's rifle from Pecatonica and used all the parts they sent. Except those hardened pins. I have also used finishing nails, but I like sheet rock nails even better. They have no burrs to be filed off the point and have a nice cupped head that you can use to pull the pins as you work. A 3/32 drill fits them exactly. And I use that cupped head for a rivet inside the barrel channel to hold the nose cap on. I chamfer the ends slightly so they are flush with the wood. Also heat blue them. Just heat them up with a torch till they turn blue. And, Bioprof, though you sound like a beginner, that was a very nice looking rifle that you posted a picture of.
 
When to sized length, blue or brown the ends, or, I just put a bit of dark bee's wax in the holes, or naught at all.
 
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