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- Thread starter bigben
- Start date
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Ben:
Well, don't get it too large in the first place ! ha ha ! Go S L O W ........ :winking: Yes, I know, easier said than done some times. Been there done that. Heck not too long ago I inletted the wrong lock on a rifle. Figured it out AFTER I got it all done & it fit Real good....... duh.... :youcrazy:
Options:
1: Make a larger piece for it.
2: Peen it out a little to fill the gap if ya can.
3: Glue in a sliver of wood that matches
4: Fill it with Micro-Bed & hope it is along the barrel channel where ya won't notice it.
5: Live with it & do better next time.
You are going good.. Just keep a pluggin at it ! :thumbsup:
Well, don't get it too large in the first place ! ha ha ! Go S L O W ........ :winking: Yes, I know, easier said than done some times. Been there done that. Heck not too long ago I inletted the wrong lock on a rifle. Figured it out AFTER I got it all done & it fit Real good....... duh.... :youcrazy:
Options:
1: Make a larger piece for it.
2: Peen it out a little to fill the gap if ya can.
3: Glue in a sliver of wood that matches
4: Fill it with Micro-Bed & hope it is along the barrel channel where ya won't notice it.
5: Live with it & do better next time.
You are going good.. Just keep a pluggin at it ! :thumbsup:
My first inletting attempt was a mess. After I got the piece installed, I went carefully around the edge and inletted a little wider. This inlet was filled with contrasting wood, to look like it was meant to be that way. It worked for hiding the booboo but sure took a lot more time than if I had just been more careful with the inletting to start with.
Good luck. It's looking great so far!
Good luck. It's looking great so far!
You probably already know this, but just in case....
Be sure to bevel the edge of the inlays so that they are wider on the surface than on the bottom. When making your intial cut around the inlay, undercut it a little bit under the bevel. I leave the inlays above the surface and file down to the wood. If you bevel the edge of the inlay, you'll still have a tight fit when you file the surface down.
Remember, practice makes perfect. :v
Be sure to bevel the edge of the inlays so that they are wider on the surface than on the bottom. When making your intial cut around the inlay, undercut it a little bit under the bevel. I leave the inlays above the surface and file down to the wood. If you bevel the edge of the inlay, you'll still have a tight fit when you file the surface down.
Remember, practice makes perfect. :v
I would do as Plink said and work out a contrasting border in either metal or wood.
Make it look deliberate and don't tell anyone it was a mistake!
A wise old carpenter once told me "the measure of a craftsmans skill was how big a mistake he could fix for the least amount of money and make it look good".
Make it look deliberate and don't tell anyone it was a mistake!
A wise old carpenter once told me "the measure of a craftsmans skill was how big a mistake he could fix for the least amount of money and make it look good".
One tip that may help in the future is to make all your sheet metal parts out of thicker metal. Put about a 20 degree bevel on the edges and it can cover a lot more "space" than you might first think.
Also, if you do mess up, and over-inlet something you can pound the sheet metal flatter on a smooth piece of steel with a polished hammer face, and it spreads a lot. Re-dress the edge and go back for a 2nd try.
When using thick metal, only inlet about 80% of it's thickness, and then you can use metal cutting paper glued to blocks to sand it flush, which gives a beautiful level fit to the job.
Hope that helps.
Steve Zihn
Also, if you do mess up, and over-inlet something you can pound the sheet metal flatter on a smooth piece of steel with a polished hammer face, and it spreads a lot. Re-dress the edge and go back for a 2nd try.
When using thick metal, only inlet about 80% of it's thickness, and then you can use metal cutting paper glued to blocks to sand it flush, which gives a beautiful level fit to the job.
Hope that helps.
Steve Zihn
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When I inlet for an inlay, I spot glue the inlay in place, with just the minimum amount of glue to hold it. Then it will not shift when I scribe around it. Helps me a lot.
Something that I have done in the past when inletting a inlay and ended up with a bit of daylight between wood inlay is to wet the wood slightly and use a wooden 'drift punch' and tap it with a hammer to push the wood in to fill the gap.After sanding down and finishing as normal the gap never reappeared even after ten years.
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