Hock shop flintlock

[swedepie]

I tried to shoot today,but to no avail couldn't get the flint to work. My question is, how smooth should the frizzen be? This one has gouge where the flint strikes. I tried to adjust the flint according to Thompsons web site. All i accomplished was breaking the flint. They were 5/8 flint that I bought from sportsman" warehouse. I'm thinking I need 7/8 from what I've read on the forum. I only got the flash pan to fire twice. The first was with a small charge to clean any oil out of the breech. the 2nd I think the charge of powder was fouled. I had my first experience pulling the ball. The powder wouldn"t dump out so this confirmed the fouling. Can you give me some advise as to how you dry out your barrel and how smooth the frizzen should be? Thanks Mac.b

 

[longfowler]

is the flint you got one of those cut ones that T/C sells? I've had indiferent luck with those. the best I've found from thompson was the cut german agate, it looks almost pure white. even better is a black english flint, I usually get mine mail order from Track of the Wolf. your flint should almost touch the frizzen on half cock,5/8 sounds kinda small as I remember so get some 6/8 or 7/8 and try them. and you'll have to expiriment with bevel up vs bevel down, every gun is different! the flint should scrape as much of the frizzen as possible not just gouge a little spot. does the gouge go horizontily across the face of the frizzen? that happens when some locks get old, the flint's been hammering the frizzen not scraping. maybe the frizzen spring is to strong. your frizzen also might need to be rehardend or shoed to get a good spark.

But when you get it all figured out, you'll be having so much fun you may not want to go back to caps ever again, so keep at it!

 

[Leonredbeard]

David,
As far as your fowled load the second time your pan flashed and you pulled the ball. It may be true that it was fouled. Buuuut, the fact that the powder wouldn't pour out the muzzle after you had a ball on top of it does not indicate a fouled load. I have pulled many balls at the end of a day of hunting and I can tell you that the powder never falls out the muzzle of a properly loaded Muzzleloader. Even a slight compaction of the powder will make it necessary to run a worm down there and disturb the compaction. Just wanted you to know that. Once you disturb the powder in the chamber area, then it will pour out the muzzle.
volatpluvia

 

[swedepie]

Rehardened as by heat treated? What is reshoeing of the frizzen? Flints from TOW are the way to go from what I've read. I'get some on the way. The frizzen moves freely enough. I've cleaned and a bit of oil on the moving parts. It stays open after pulling the trigger and I can flip it back and forth with a finger. I really don't know cause I are just a beginner with flint! sure appreciate the help, Mac.

 

[swedepie]

Never thought about it not pouring out due to a proper seated load, but I am learnin. I put the wire patch retriever and churned it up a bit. Still wouldn't pour out and the stuff that came out on the wire was definitely not dry. I cleaned the rifle up with some MAP. ran a lite oil patch and put away till i can get some new flints. Thanks Mac.

 

[J.D.]

Can you post a photo of the frizzen so we can see what the gouges look like?

TC has a lifetime warranty on their guns, so if the frizzen is soft, send it back to TC. They will replace it.

 

[swedepie]

You are pushing me right over the tech edge with posting a pic. I am lucky to be doing this. I fact, It's a toss up between flinter's and this dang computer. I'll see if I can get the wife, (she's the smart one), to get er done tomorrow.
gotta go for now, thanks Mac.

 

[docjim]

Gouges on the frizzen face doesn't sound right, but on a new frizzen even normal scrapes can look like gouges. The flash of sparks should be bright and consistent! That is the only judge of a good hard frizzen face. There are 2 ways to repair a 'dead' face. 1 is the cut a relief into the frizzen and rivet on a 'shoe' with a ready hardened piece of steel. Like replacing brake pad material.... 2 is to resurface the metal by 'case hardening' This is done by heating the metal and covering the area to harden with a carbon source (case hardening powder is even available from Dixie Gun Works), Then heating the metal again for tempering. This makes the surface layer a high carbon steel, properly done it's just like a new frizzen. This is the preferred method, but not everyone can judge temperature accurately enough. 'Shoeing' is a workaround.
The idea was to have a VERY hard surface to spark well but NOT a brittle piece of metal that will shatter on impact.
Of course I would suggest checking for warranty before anything else.... DOC

 

[Stubert]

T/C redesigned their locks a while ago. If you have an older one the geometry is wrong, T/C will replace the cock and the frizzen under warr. Call them.

 

[swedepie]

here's a link

 

[Zonie]

Ah,maybe you could get your wife to help again? Next time though, back off about 8 inches so the frizzen is in better focus?

 

[swedepie]

She gave me a loving look and said,"FAT CHANCE, that pic took me most of the afternoon" and something about her time spent better doing something other than frizzen pics. I'll work on her after dinner. My mother only raised one fool and he lives in Idaho. Never put your vittles on the line over a frizzen photo! Mac.

 

[swedepie]

I went to their site, Thompson Center Arms, but found nothing about finding out how old the rifle is. I would think they would have something that would relate to the # on the barrel, as far as parts or info. I'll give them a call tomorrow if I get off work early. Thanks for the help, Mac.

 

[swedepie]

Do you have to use Photo bucket to post pics? Is there an easier way? Mac.

 

[paulvallandigham]

Thompson Center had a fire about 10 years ago, and most of the records were destroyed. You are more likely to find someone here who can help you age a T/C, than anyone now working at the factory. But, the worst that will happen on a phone call is they will tell you they can't help you. Give them a call, and let us all know what you find out.

 

[Frank/Pa]

If the lock is not sparking, call Thompson Center. They can help you, and most likely will replace the lock.

 

[swedepie]

I e-mailed them tue. p.m. the 21st. Received their reply this morning. The nice lady said send it to them and they will fix it. It,s on the way today. Will let you know how it turns out. Does any one know how to tell the yr., barrel or etc. from the # K38xx8 stamped on it? Thanks for the help, Mac.

 

[Grey Hawk]

Go ahead and send it to them, however, in th pic, the flint seams to be cocked to the right slighty. This would be a correcting measure, the flint face and the frizzen should align. Also, is the flint held by the cock jaw only or do you have a piece of lead or leather to hold the flint in the jaws? This allows a solid strike where as the jaw only tends to maybe skip across the frizzen face or may even break the flint.

Just my 2 cents :thumbsup:

Grey Hawk

 

[kevindj]

It's hard to tell from the picture but it appears the flint is not striking the full width of the frizzen. I have the best luck when the flint width is about the same as the frizzen width. It also looks like the frizzen is releasing early causing a 'bounce' rather than a scrape. Maybe your frizzen spring is too weak.

Just some thoughts.

 

[swedepie]

Grey Hawk, Kevindj, the flint was broken in the pic. It was taken after the failed firing session. The flint is wrapped in some chomois leather I had laying around. Sent the lock to T.C. and I am waiting for it back. Will post when I get it back. I hammered out one of those little stick on wheel weights and trimmed it so I will have a lead wrap for the new flints I have from TOW. Nice company to do business with. Very prompt and informative. Mac.