Home made lubes.

[Black Hand]

Just started making my own homemade lube.

Just not sure what consistency I should be looking for ?

My first batch of lube was
4 parts beeswax
4 parts Trex ( veggie lard )
1 part olive oil.

The resulting lube is close to candle wax, I'm guessing this is a little on the hard size (???), so do I need to soften it up ?
Do I soften it with more Trex or more olive oil ?

Cheers

Diz

Just use lard or olive oil. No need to formulate anything....

 

[Maven]

Got to agree with Dan on Stumpy's MS. I used it on my patches for a postal match yesterday (60gr. FFFg = .530" RB) and got very little BP residue/fouling + I didn't need to wipe the bore at all.

 

[Stumpkiller]

Castor oil? Like from the dirt bike or model airplane shop for use in gasoline premix? Or, the drug store type?

I use model airplane castor oil (from Sig) or drug store (when it's on sale). You want first press oil. I believe Kroil is the same as model airplane (and full size rotary engines - like WWI variety) engines . . . but I don't know if it has additives.

I started playing with castor oil because it is very high temperature tolerant.

 

[coloradoclyde]

You want first press oil. I believe Kroil is the same as model airplane (and full size rotary engines - like WWI variety) engines . . . but I don't know if it has additives.

What?... :shocked2: :shocked2: :shocked2:
Are you saying Kroil is castor oil?

I'm confused.

 

[Stumpkiller]

OOOp. Sorry. I meant Klotz, not Kroil. I believe they call it "BêNol".

Getting old. ;-)

 

[coloradoclyde]

Ok!....Mental meltdown averted.... :haha:

 

[AZbpBurner]

"1 part castor oil to 4 parts denatured alcohol."

Do you wring the patches out, then let them dry?

Castor oil? Like from the dirt bike or model airplane shop for use in gasoline premix? Or, the drug store type?

Thanks.

My first batch was made from some 40+ year old model airplane castor oil. Since then I've ordered from a couple of on-line places with E-Bay.

I pour the DA + castor oil mix into a widemouth jar or small plastic pan, then grab a stack of 50-100 patches. I simply dip the stack into the mix until it is completely soaked, then squeeze to remove the excess. I lay them out afterward on an aluminum tray, then just put them out in the hot garage for the DA to evaporate out. The result is an almost completely dry patch that can be stored in ziplock bags or small jars.

The dry patch loads easily and helps reduce bore fouling, since it doesn't leave behind much oily residue to attract fouling.

Resist the impulse to try straight castor oil soaked patches directly from the bottle. In heavy amounts, it leaves a nasty residue that is hard to rfemove.