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CharringLight

32 Cal
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I have no prior experience with muzzleloading and thought I try my hand at a kit build. Having recently retired I finally have time to give this sport some attention. My question to you all is, is it better to start off with a pistol or rifle kit? I am thinking a kit in the $400 - $800 range. I have experience with both wood and metal. Also I mostly plan to shoot at a public ranges and BLM property.
 
I would do a rifle if you are looking to do a kit. They take about the same work and a rifle is more versatile. Also, there are more options for rifles.

You can do kits from Traditions or Pieta and others. For about $500 more than your budget you can do a Kibler. You can also put together parts and build a scratch rifle but I wouldn’t recommend it for a beginner.
 
I agree...generally with a kit...if you can do one, you can do the other, Granted,...even though I have never done so...If I was going to build one up from scratch I have to think a pistol would be a good starting point.
 
I built my first kits about 50 years ago. A CVA flintlock rifle and next a flint pistol. I knew little when I started and information was scarce. They both shot. Today you have great sources of help and information right here.
 
Don't buy s Traditions kit. They're meant to go together fast and are of low quality. They don't offer much of a challenge, and you're finished product is still going to be low quality no matter how skillful you are at finishing it. I'd say save your money until you can buy a better quality kit.
 
I have no prior experience with muzzleloading and thought I try my hand at a kit build.
Is your goal to have an historically correct looking gun when done? Flintlock or caplock? Any hunting or just plinking and/or target shooting? If hunting, what game? Any reenacting?

I agree with Kansas Jake that a long gun would be better unless you are specifically interested in pistols.

If you can provide more info on your goals, we can give better choices for you.
 
Is your goal to have an historically correct looking gun when done? Flintlock or caplock? Any hunting or just plinking and/or target shooting? If hunting, what game? Any reenacting?

I agree with Kansas Jake that a long gun would be better unless you are specifically interested in pistols.

If you can provide more info on your goals, we can give better choices for you.
My goal is to have a flintlock muzzleloader for plinking and target shooting. I also like to learn more than just how to load and shoot. I'm fascinated by mechanical things. It would be interesting to learn what makes them tick. Hence the desire for a kit build. I own pistols and revolvers and looking for something different to enjoy from the sports of shooting.
 
My goal is to have a flintlock muzzleloader for plinking and target shooting. I also like to learn more than just how to load and shoot. I'm fascinated by mechanical things. It would be interesting to learn what makes them tick. Hence the desire for a kit build. I own pistols and revolvers and looking for something different to enjoy from the sports of shooting.

Reading is a good first place to start since you state you have no prior muzzleloading experience. Go to the gunbuilders forum here and look at Dave Person's exceptional tutorials. Dave not only shows what he does, but explains why as well. Take careful note of the architecture. The Gunsmith of Grenville County is a comprehsive guide to building longrifles. You wouldn't need all this info to build a kit, but if you really want to learn, it's a good book to have on hand.

https://www.amazon.com/Gunsmith-Grenville-County-Building-Longrifle/dp/0985796901

For plinking and target shooting I would choose a .40 to .45 caliber rifle. These are both really nice calibers to shoot with less powder and lead. Certainly nothing wrong with a .50, just more than you need for plinking and targets. In a flintlock I'd get a quality lock. A swamped barrel is, IMO, a very nice "upgrade" for weight and balance.

I don't know that you'll get a good quality kit for $800 or less. I think it will be $1000 and up. Check out Jim Kibler, Jim Chambers flintlocks, Track of the Wolf, Pecatonica River Long Rifle Supply, and others. Kiblers are the easiest and high quality. Chambers take more work and are generally high quality, others require more work in wood shaping, lock cleanup and tuning, etc.

Low cost options are available, as already suggested. These kits will produce a gun that shoots. Only you can decide what your cost/quality/historical appearance balance is.
 
My goal is to have a flintlock muzzleloader for plinking and target shooting. I also like to learn more than just how to load and shoot. I'm fascinated by mechanical things. It would be interesting to learn what makes them tick. Hence the desire for a kit build. I own pistols and revolvers and looking for something different to enjoy from the sports of shooting.
When we talk about flint locks and getting the most joy from the sport of shooting, then we have to talk about the quality of the lock. The entry level priced flint locks will have good barrels, but the locks often need a lot of work to bring them up to the level of reliability that brings great joy to the shooting of a flint lock. Traditions locks have improved a bit since the 1970's but they are still very much a work in progress in the delivered in kit form. You will be better off with a kit with a high-quality lock, such as the Kibler kits. You will learn a lot about the mechanics of a flint lock by starting out with a lock that works without the frustration of learning how to polish, tune, and position flints.
 
I have no prior experience with muzzleloading and thought I try my hand at a kit build. Having recently retired I finally have time to give this sport some attention. My question to you all is, is it better to start off with a pistol or rifle kit? I am thinking a kit in the $400 - $800 range. I have experience with both wood and metal. Also I mostly plan to shoot at a public ranges and BLM property.
I started in blackpowder in the mid 70’s with a CVA Deringer kit…But I promise you, you’ll get more long term enjoyment by starting off with a rifle.

I like that you are thinking of building/assembling from a kit. More personal involvement and a deeper appreciation by going that route. Get the best quality kit and go from there…right now the best quality kit on the market is going to be a Kibler Kit. None better….
 
Your price point is high enough that I agree with the earlier comment to save a bit more and look at the Kiblers, particularly the Woodsrunner kit. Plinking could lead to hunting so you'll have the best of several worlds at the end of the project.

I own TC's and a CVA and the I love the 80's and 90's nostalgia of hunting with them so they'll remain in my cabinet, but the Kibler lock and ease of build puts it in an entirely different league in my opinion.

Price wise, if you don't get a fancy wood you'll be in the ballpark and just the lock will make it well worth the extra few dollars you'll need to save.

Sorry, just one more thought.....

In pictures and in video the Woodsrunner looks alot beefier than it really is. The thing that struck me was how thin and delicate the stock was which created a rifle that held much more balanced than my TC's or CVA's. I say this because you mentioned target shooting as at least an initial priority function. Try to hold one before you choose.
 
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From the time I was 13…till my mid-20’s, I had one rifle. It was a .50 calibre CVA Mountain Rifle. I’ve lost track of how many deer I harvested with it. Took an elk every year I drew muzzleloader season. I borrowed a .54 calibre from my dad for an elk hunt one year…and I bought a CVA Big Bore kit in .54 calibre, nothing really beats the .54 for elk

After that, I’m ashamed to say, I got the disease and became an avid collector.

Been a downhill ride ever since
 
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If you like mechanical things you're going to LOVE flintlocks! But it should have a quality lock on it to minimize frustration. I gotta direct you to a WoodsRunner too. I had mine assembled and ready to begin finishing in less than six hours and although it looks cumbersome it is actually very well balanced.
 
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