Home Made Oil Cloth

[Black Hand]

Red and yellow were the most common colors (I suspect red was the more common of the two). I've also found reference to other colors such as green, brown and blue.

 

[Black Hand]

Also, the red is more of a chocolate red-brown or dried blood color. It is not RED...

 

[Crewdawg445]

I have one done with barn paint. While I don't object to the color, most oilcloth I've seen had a lighter red/brown coloration.

Not going to disagree on the authenticity of the barn paint red, but I'm sure colors did absolutely vary depending on how much iron oxide one mixed in.

The 5×5 I coated with barn paint in all actuality isn't that bad, it is indeed very red but a subtle brick red.

 

[BillinOregon]

Two questions:
Where do you gents get your iron oxide?
Has anyone done flammability tests with scraps of cured oilcloth? Thinking the risk diminishes at least somewhat as the cure matures, but I could be all wet. Often am.

 

[Black Hand]

People have found iron oxides at artist supply stores. Some have used the powdered colorant used for concrete sold at hardware stores. Iron oxides are also available from Amazon.

 

[Crewdawg445]

For procuring iron oxide it's very easy.

When I need it, I make it. It can be bought but me personally I have a hard time paying for rust powder. With a little planning ahead it's easy to do.

Now, in terms of flammability I love this one. People have this preconceived notion that something listed as "flame retardant" is for whatever reason impermeable to flame or spark. This means I can set my tarp or tent even closer to the fire pit! WRONG, WRONG AND WRONG!

Merely this offers more resilience to stray embers, in no way to open flame. Over time this chemical application does indeed fade.

Now we are obviously using volatile chemicals when we apply this homemade solution. If not properly dry, you bet your breeches chances of catching fire are like fireworks on the 4th. However, when properly dry indeed the chances are diminished.

I've said it over a hundred times to people who are interested in any shelter, I absolutely can't stress enough the common sense aspect of having any shelter in close proximity to an open flame.

Accidents and unforseen issues happen. I'm positive they did back in the day as well with shelters and fires. Each individual obviously has to understand the risks involved with anything and exercise good judgement.

Nothing IMO replaces a good head on a man's shoulders. Unfortunately today that seems to be lacking in allot of societies round the big ball of rock and water.

 

[George]

Iron oxide comes in a variety of colors, usually broadly described as yellow or red.

My tarp was made using yellow iron oxide, and I obtained it from a local pottery shop, where it was used as a glaze.

Spence

 

[jrmflintlock]

Crewdawg, when given the chance I like to make all that I use, Can you elaborate on your method of procuring enough Rust (Iron Oxide) for an 10x10 oil cloth?

Many thanks!

 

[BillinOregon]

Crewdog, I understand about tentage and open flame. However, I constantly hear of folks setting up tarps as lean-tos in front of a warming fire to capture the reflected heat. I have trouble imagining how this can be done safely, especially if wind directions are changing, which is often the case.

 

[Black Hand]

Canvas and oilcloths should not catch unless there is a continuous source of heat (direct flame contact or an ember). Merely being in the vicinity (above or to the side) of a heat source doesn't appear to work for ignition (need to reach the flash-point of the material). Yes, the material may feel warm, but warm doesn't equal flaming canvas. Otherwise, blue jeans would spontaneously burst into flame when someone stood next to a fire....

 

[Crewdawg445]

Bingo! Beat me to it and an excellent explanation.

Jrmflintlock, I'd love to share my secret on making rust! Very simple.

Depending on how much I want I'll usually have multiple mason jars going at once. The process is simple, all you need is real bleach, no fragrance or diluted bleaches, just straight chlorine clorox bleach.
Lastly steel wool, be cautious because most brands now contain a protective coating safeguarding the steel from the very thing we want, rust.
However you can toss your batch of wool into acetone to remove the oils.
From there I place the wool in jars and add bleach. You'll see rust forming fairly quickly and the deposits will sink to the bottom. Collect from there and you have rust. :thumbsup:

 

[Black Hand]

I've collected the precipitate at the bottom of my jar of Vinegaroon (White vinegar & Steel wool) and dried it in the oven.

 

[Crewdawg445]

Never dried in the oven, but that's a dandy idea. Always just drain the bleach and allow it to air dry.

 

[Black Hand]

With bleach, I would air-dry to avoid corroding the elements in the oven. You could rinse well with water to remove residual bleach then dry the precipitate...

 

[Crewdawg445]

Absolutely, and the noxious fumes... wife already made me buy a mini oven for the garage due to me melting wax and tempering all the time... She probably would blow a gasket with bleach!