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wild_willie_10

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Who uses a home made lube and who uses a commercial patch lube. Which commercial do you use and if you use a home made lube, what is in the mix. I ask this because I've seen every home made mix under the sun,but never heard what the accuracy rate is for the mix. And of course, the commercial lube all state their's is the best ever made.
 
I've used several different commercial brands, lard, crisco, rendered goose fat, coon fat. But now I use Go-Jo white. I carry it in a tube when trekking to clean with. And pre-lube patches and felt wads. It's the best thing I've used.
 
Years ago when I first started this game I used Crisco, soap and water. Switched to commercial and used it many years. Now use Stumps Moose Milk cause it works and can be made up when I need it. The commercial stuff is not always available.
Fox :hatsoff:
 
I use Swamp Rat's bear grease mixed about 50/50 with beeswax...used it deer huntin this year and it worked great! now whether i use it on the range or not....bear grease not easy to come by.. :hmm: .but usually use spit patches on range anyway..save the bear! good stuff! :thumbsup: RC
 
Ziggy said:
Who uses a home made lube and who uses a commercial patch lube. Which commercial do you use and if you use a home made lube, what is in the mix. I ask this because I've seen every home made mix under the sun,but never heard what the accuracy rate is for the mix. And of course, the commercial lube all state their's is the best ever made.
For ranges session here in North Carolina all I've ever used is NL1000 3/4 of the year, and Hoppes No9 PLUS in the winter months.

For hunting it's always NL1000 no matter what time of year it is.
 
I buy both pre-lubed patches (either Ox-Yoke with Wonder Lube 1000+ or ML Originals with Precision Lube 2000) and dry patches. I lube all of them with a dab of Stumpkiller's Moose Milk prior to loading... the dry patches just get a little more.
 
For just shooting, range ,match ect. I use spit have for 30 years ,found nothing better . to hunt where load may stay in for a day or two.....sperm oil. was lucky enough to get a pint years ago....Stickwalker
 
For hunting load I use wonderlube. For range use I use spit. Formula is 1 part spit, 1 part pillow tick. :rotf:
 
Olive oil in the winter. Olive oil,and bee's wax, crisco "equal amounts" With a touch of murphy's in the summer.Makes a nice creamy paste. Will probably just use Olive oil year around.Pillow ticking from Wally World.
 
You know what I like. :haha:

Stumpy's Moose Juice

A general purpose blackpowder solvent and liquid patch lube. Shake well before using

Castor Oil 3 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Witch Hazel 4 oz.
Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) 8 oz.
Water (non-chlorinated) 16 oz.

I dip my patching in this twice and let it dry laid flat on wax paper in between. Makes a semi-dry patch material that's easy to carry & use. If you don't mind carrying a little bottle it's a GREAT liquid lube as is.


Stumpy's Moose Snot

A premium multi-shot between wiping (10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range.
SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block

Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.


Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water. ( A double-boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups). Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.

Note: it if is a hinged tin - line the edge that has the hinges with a strip of aluminum foil so it doesn't ooze out before it cools.
 
I mostly use Ballistol and water on prelubed and dried patches. Though if I'm out for a long day of plinking, I might switch to Hoppe's black powder solvent/lube. I can shoot longer with less cleaning that way. For hunting, it's the Ballistol mix for me.
 
When I ran out of Bore Butter, I started usin' Sno Seal out my eight oz can. It's mostly bee's wax with mineral oil as a softener. I found another tube of Bore Butter, in my gun safe, and am usin' it to lube the 28 gauge cushion wads I bought. :winking:
 
For the last several months, I've been using Stumpy's Moose Snot. I switched to this because I ran out of T/C 1000+ Bore Butter. I like the Moose Snot just fine. It's the first home brew patch lube I've found that doesn't coagulate in the breech and leave a nasty crust.

And I use Moose Juice for range cleaning.

Cruzatte
 
I use a home made Moose Milk. 1 part Gunk Water Soluble Oil and 4 parts water. I can shoot an entire match without swabbing the barrel once with this.
 
I have used various lubes in the past, Bore Butter, Wonderlube, Slime Ball but the best I have ever used is Stumpy's Moose Juice and Moose Snot. :bow: I like it so much I made up business cards with the formula and pass them out at my range with this web site's address on the other side. :hatsoff:
 
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