I just got my first flintlock and can't wait to shoot it. I don't have any FFFFG powder for priming the pan. The guy I bought it from said he made his own by putting some FFFG in a 35mm film container with a couple of round balls and just shook it up until he got a fine powder. Has anyone heard of this, because it kinda sounds to me like playing hot potato with a grenade. Any thoughts? Thanks.
Homemade FFFFG powder?
- Thread starter Bob. B.
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
Percussion won't set off BP, but neither is it necessary. 3F works fine as a prime. Most people here use it to prime.
Black Hand
Cannon
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2005
- Messages
- 9,348
- Reaction score
- 897
Prime with whatever you have in the horn.BB Gun said:
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2013
- Messages
- 20,091
- Reaction score
- 1,025
Grinding or milling, can be very dangerous...That is usually how powder plants blow up. Additionally, it removes the glazing and makes the powder more susceptible to moisture in the air....Reducing its effectiveness...
Like everyone else has said...just use the 3f as is..
Like everyone else has said...just use the 3f as is..
Black Hand
Cannon
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2005
- Messages
- 9,348
- Reaction score
- 897
But the explosion was more likely due to fines in the air being ignited (which can happen with sawdust, flour, sugar or a number of other very fine powders) or a spark igniting the powder. Just bashing some powder around in a film canister containing lead balls is unlikely to do more than make a mess.
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2013
- Messages
- 20,091
- Reaction score
- 1,025
Sure....but it's the grinding etc.. that causes the fines...My point was meant to be illustrative...
Like you said the results will likely be a mess...
Like you said the results will likely be a mess...
- Joined
- Jan 30, 2014
- Messages
- 799
- Reaction score
- 15
I prefer 3f over 4f as priming.
I tried making my own 4f using a rolling pin and a wood cutting board. Powder folded between parchment cooking paper. Did only a tablespoon at a time. That way if it flashed it would be no more then a flash of smoke.
Lots of work on effect. 4 f won't shoot a gun any faster to human senses. You have to clutter yourself with an extra small container that you have to fiddle with.
My fusil will often shoot 2 and I prime with it, and it shoots well.
Lots of work on effect. 4 f won't shoot a gun any faster to human senses. You have to clutter yourself with an extra small container that you have to fiddle with.
My fusil will often shoot 2 and I prime with it, and it shoots well.
If you want to illustrate the lack of percussion to ignite BP, put a few grains on a non-sparking surface and pound it with a wooden hammer. It won't ignite.
I toyed with the idea of crushing BP to get 4F, but since 4F is relatively cheap and a pound will last a LONG time, I bought a life supply of 4F.
I'm one of the few who sees a positive of 4F as priming. 4F G (graphite) does the job for me and is minimally quicker than 3F. I know, I know, but it increases my confidence. Which is important. 3F works fine and according to reports 2F is also. But I've got 4F and it meters through my priming flask just fine. I tried 3F and it also works, just not (IMO) as fine.
I toyed with the idea of crushing BP to get 4F, but since 4F is relatively cheap and a pound will last a LONG time, I bought a life supply of 4F.
I'm one of the few who sees a positive of 4F as priming. 4F G (graphite) does the job for me and is minimally quicker than 3F. I know, I know, but it increases my confidence. Which is important. 3F works fine and according to reports 2F is also. But I've got 4F and it meters through my priming flask just fine. I tried 3F and it also works, just not (IMO) as fine.
I prime with FFFg in my .54 flint rifle. Try it and see.
If you crush FFFG, it will no longer be G. (graphite). I think the G is important for moisture and clotting.
I wonder when graphite was added to powder. An important coating, I think.
I wonder when graphite was added to powder. An important coating, I think.
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2013
- Messages
- 20,091
- Reaction score
- 1,025
Gene L said:
I have found reference to glazing as far back as the 1820's....It may even go further...
I use 3f in my pan for my pistol. Works great.
Electric Miner
40 Cal.
- Joined
- Sep 18, 2012
- Messages
- 445
- Reaction score
- 72
I have limited experience with flintlocks, but have always used whatever I was using for the main charge.
Stumpkiller said:
This also works great for me.
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2013
- Messages
- 20,091
- Reaction score
- 1,025
Scott_C said:
In a pinch, I use the same as what's in the barrel.... :v
If you crush bp you will not get 4Fg. You will get crushed mess. At one time there was a grinder on the market for doing this. I still have one but it is useless. Conversation starter and that is all. But, I use 4Fg for prime because I always have, still have a lot on hand and it is sorta a habit. Do yer own thang and enjoy.
Billnpatti
Cannon
- Joined
- Aug 11, 2008
- Messages
- 7,340
- Reaction score
- 44
You can prime with whatever you are using to load your gun, you don't need 4f for your pan. it's good if you have it but if you don't, just use whatever you have in your horn. The difference in ignition time is infinitesimal.
As for your friend's technique for grinding 3f or 2f into a fine powder, it will work but why bother. If you do choose to do it, use non-sparking equipment such as a plastic container with a glass marble. Black powder is not sensitive to pulverizing as long as no spark is generated. The resultant powder will be a mixture of fine powder of uncertain granulation that will work in your pan but is unnecessary.
As for your friend's technique for grinding 3f or 2f into a fine powder, it will work but why bother. If you do choose to do it, use non-sparking equipment such as a plastic container with a glass marble. Black powder is not sensitive to pulverizing as long as no spark is generated. The resultant powder will be a mixture of fine powder of uncertain granulation that will work in your pan but is unnecessary.
