Homemade Leather Dye Question

[Adam Isrow]

Hey Guys,
Hopefully someone can help me here. I made the cider vinegar/ rusty iron dye recipe in the "How to Make your Own Pouch" book. I let it set for a week and a half, then dyed a sample piece of veg-tanned leather. The leather turned a deep, deep blue like the book said it would, but did not turn charcoal gray as it dried. It stayed navy blue. Did I do something wrong?

 

[Bill Austin]

Crowhammer, a lot of the veg tan sold these days is chrome tanned first and then veg tanned just long enough to get the color and firmness desired.Sometimes this affects the way the leather reacts to the dye. I might try oiling lightly and putting out in the sun to see if that would help.

 

[Robbo]

That an odd one. I have used the same receipe with good success for years. I hven't heard of finishing off chrome tanned leather with veg tanning, but don't doubt the possibility. Chrome tanned leather is much trickier to stain.

If I were you, I would either hit it with some modern proprietary black dye (I have used Fiebings (sp?) at different times whilst in your country; or alternatively, buff it up with a good black boot polish and I am sure it will come good.

Good Luck

 

Neutralize with baking soda and water (about 4 tablespoons in a quart of water) - once dry lightly oil, that should turn it black.
Remember this isn't technically a dye - it's chemical reaction between the ferric acetate (the vinegar and iron) and the tannins in the leather. You can also wet the leather first with a strong black tea mix (adds tannin) then apply the vinegar.
FWIW - I've been using the above methods for better than 40 years and it never reacts the same way twice.

 

[Adam Isrow]

Thanks,
I'll try the first, than the other. Will report how it turns out. Again thanks, I was getting a little worried that I may end up with a blue pouch!

 

[Adam Isrow]

Forgot to ask. What do I oil the leather with?

 

Any good oil will do, but no matter what oil you use add it in LIGHT coats and then let each coat set for a couple of four hours to "level" out:
Lexol Conditioner - a refined Neats Foot Oil that is hard to over do
Neats Foot Oil (a heavier oil)
Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Tallow with or without beeswax added
Mink Oil

 

[jbg]

I don't know about the recipe you are using for your leather dye, but experience has taught me that the iron in the dye will ruin the leather in a relatively short time. The late Chris Schreiber stopped using period dyes on his leather work because it cracked the leather badly, and no amount of care could stop it.

 

That's why I neutralize and with all due respect perhaps the gent you mentioned wasn't doing something right?

FWIW - I've been using it for over forty years and have NEVER had any major problems and I consistently test as well as keep in contact with my clients for feedback. Plus there is still plenty of 19th Century extant leatherwork that was so dyed...

as always others mileage will vary...

 

[Adam Isrow]

So the baking soda step is critical? I was going to test just the oil w/out the neutralizer. Do you soak the entire pouch in a baking soda bath, or is wiping w/ the mixture sufficient?

 

wiping is good.....

 

[Adam Isrow]

Thanks! Wiped it down w/ the baking soda, let it dry, than oiled it w/ evoo. The leather is as black as midnight now. Thanks again :bow: