Wanted 12g double barrel percussion shotgun

[TRex87]

Been wanting one of these for awhile to shoot everything from PRB to bird & buck shot with. Would probably shoot round ball more often than shot, & want a double barrel that does both & can group decent enough w PRB out to a good 50yd or better if possible

Prefer barrels 20-27”

Trying to keep it under $500 & less is better. Know that’s not easy to come by as many of the replica’s go for way too much

Was about to pull the trigger the trigger on a Pietta on here but someone snatched it up b4 I did

Kinda like the idea of an original & ironically Rhodes often go for less than replica’s, like Sharp’s rifle’s always seem too as well, but not sure I should trust round ball out of an old one?

Anyways, any recommendations, thoughts or anyone one have one they want to part with?

 

[andy52]

The only downside of what you are asking is very difficult to get good accuracy at 50 yards with an SxS using a round ball I've tried it and wouldn't have trusted it for deer past about 30 yards.

 

[Dusty_Traveler]

I love finding a good solid antique and bringing it back to service.

I call those, "having good bones", and @Relic shooter, "worthy".

When looking at an antique shotgun, I'm really picky about barrel condition.

Ribs- upper and lower- Look carefully for any separation from the barrels. Acidic flux was sometime used. Over the years corrosion can form on the steel beneath the solder joint. This will cause the joint itself to weaken and fail. Look for any evidence of a gap between the rib and barrel. Sometimes you can see the corrosion (rust) peeking out from a seam or a hole in the solder. Any repairs to fix this will completely change the patina and look of an antique. Sometimes you will see oxidation, too. This is a white chalky layer that forms on lead based solder. Oxidation is not as much of a concern as corrosion.

Barrel delamination- Look up how "twist steel" barrels are made. Most of the older shotguns are of this construction. These layers, or coils, can sometimes delaminate due to conditions. I use a nickel to bounce all along the ribs to check for rib separation, and all over the barrels to check for delamination. If you land on a problem area, your nickel will give a thud instead of a dink. I walk away from anything that thuds, no matter how much I like the gun.

Bore condition- That delamination is caused by rust and corrosion eating pits into the bore and then creeping into the layers of the twist. For me, If the bores are any more than very lightly pitted on these barrels, I choose to pass. Surface rust, though, can be polished off.

If you are going to be shooting round balls out of antique barrels, I would make sure that they are not tightly patched. I don't use modern plastic shot cups in an antique barrel, either. I stick with lubed felt wads and overshot cards.

I also keep in mind that I am shooting a gun that is 150+ years old.

Good luck with your search!

With many satisfied shooters, its hard to go wrong with a Pietta or Pedersoli double.

Take your time if you decide to purchase an antique, foremost for safety, but also for value and resale.

 

[TRex87]

I love finding a good solid antique and bringing it back to service.

I call those, "having good bones", and @Relic shooter, "worthy".

When looking at an antique shotgun, I'm really picky about barrel condition.

Ribs- upper and lower- Look carefully for any separation from the barrels. Acidic flux was sometime used. Over the years corrosion can form on the steel beneath the solder joint. This will cause the joint itself to weaken and fail. Look for any evidence of a gap between the rib and barrel. Sometimes you can see the corrosion (rust) peeking out from a seam or a hole in the solder. Any repairs to fix this will completely change the patina and look of an antique. Sometimes you will see oxidation, too. This is a white chalky layer that forms on lead based solder. Oxidation is not as much of a concern as corrosion.

Barrel delamination- Look up how "twist steel" barrels are made. Most of the older shotguns are of this construction. These layers, or coils, can sometimes delaminate due to conditions. I use a nickel to bounce all along the ribs to check for rib separation, and all over the barrels to check for delamination. If you land on a problem area, your nickel will give a thud instead of a dink. I walk away from anything that thuds, no matter how much I like the gun.

Bore condition- That delamination is caused by rust and corrosion eating pits into the bore and then creeping into the layers of the twist. For me, If the bores are any more than very lightly pitted on these barrels, I choose to pass. Surface rust, though, can be polished off.

If you are going to be shooting round balls out of antique barrels, I would make sure that they are not tightly patched. I don't use modern plastic shot cups in an antique barrel, either. I stick with lubed felt wads and overshot cards.

I also keep in mind that I am shooting a gun that is 150+ years old.

Good luck with your search!

With many satisfied shooters, its hard to go wrong with a Pietta or Pedersoli double.

Take your time if you decide to purchase an antique, foremost for safety, but also for value and resale.

Appreciate the knowledge & advice

My problem w originals is I don’t see many in my area, or many replica’s either for that matter, so kinda have to use online unless I can get super lucky & come across something locally in the ball park

Thanks again

 

[TRex87]

The only downside of what you are asking is very difficult to get good accuracy at 50 yards with an SxS using a round ball I've tried it and wouldn't have trusted it for deer past about 30 yards.

Thanks for sharing ur experience

What kind of groups could u get at 30yd & what were u using exactly ?

Do they shoot roundball comparable to smooth bore muskets btw or not so much?


From what I’ve heard some of the decent ones will group at less than 4” at 50 yds.