Someone should try adding some Tylenol to cure the headaches we get from over thinking these things.
Homemade lube
- Thread starter Weavedreamer
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rfdr
.54 or bust
An old thread, but with timely info ...and choices.
Over the last 7 decades or so I've tried quite a few muzzleloader patch lube recipes. My go-to lube for patched balls (or for lubing greaser bullet grooves) is the tried and true 19th century Crazy Cat (Gato Feo) #1 formula ...
(by weight, double boiler melted and poured into a cleaned out milk/juice carton to cool and solidify)
1 part mutton tallow
1 part canning wax (parafin - this is food grade stuff)
1/2 part filtered beeswax
Whence cooled it will cut well with a knife. Adjust the hardness/softness with the amount of beeswax.
I cut square patches and dip into the melted lube with forceps or tongs or whatever, saturate well, pull out and let the excess drip off. Rolled patch strips dipped in the same way. Once removed the lubed material will cure and harden within a few minutes. The patch material is completed saturated with the lube and this is key to never ever having to wipe out the barrel for as many shots as taken ... most for me so far has been 54 shots in a row for near 3 hours of shooting.
This patch lube also allows for easy bbl cleanup and maintenance.
As always, allowing the bp residue to harden by not keeping it soft will make cleanup a chore and is the gateway to bad things happening to good metal.
Over the last 7 decades or so I've tried quite a few muzzleloader patch lube recipes. My go-to lube for patched balls (or for lubing greaser bullet grooves) is the tried and true 19th century Crazy Cat (Gato Feo) #1 formula ...
(by weight, double boiler melted and poured into a cleaned out milk/juice carton to cool and solidify)
1 part mutton tallow
1 part canning wax (parafin - this is food grade stuff)
1/2 part filtered beeswax
Whence cooled it will cut well with a knife. Adjust the hardness/softness with the amount of beeswax.
I cut square patches and dip into the melted lube with forceps or tongs or whatever, saturate well, pull out and let the excess drip off. Rolled patch strips dipped in the same way. Once removed the lubed material will cure and harden within a few minutes. The patch material is completed saturated with the lube and this is key to never ever having to wipe out the barrel for as many shots as taken ... most for me so far has been 54 shots in a row for near 3 hours of shooting.
This patch lube also allows for easy bbl cleanup and maintenance.
As always, allowing the bp residue to harden by not keeping it soft will make cleanup a chore and is the gateway to bad things happening to good metal.
Excuse my Spanish and I may be wrong, but isn't that Ugly Cat?
rfdr
.54 or bust
You are correct, Sir! It's Ugly Cat!
skwerleater
40 Cal
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Beeswax and olive oil works very well. Vary the proportions to get a thick or thinner consistency. Simple. Not expensive.
If ya find a Apiary you can score unfiltered wax at a very cheap price. I get this for 4 bucks a pound. I have to heat it and strain it through cheese cloth. But its worth it to me.
RobertsGunsmithing
Amateur with a Guitar
So many weird ingredients, I just have to ask, because I have a pound of A&D ointment. What is the cumulative thoughts of using it with beeswax and olive oil?
Might keep the barrel more healthy.
Might keep the barrel more healthy.
The inert ingredients in that are mostly petroleum derivatives, which would be a poor choice for a black powder application. You want something that's derived from animal or plant oil or fat.
... OK, so it's in jest, I get it, don't paste me ...
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