Homemade patch lube recipes?

[lonewolf465]

I'm trying to get as authentic as possible. Any suggestions on a homemade patch lube recipe for my .54 flinter?? Thanks in advance forum members!!

 

[crmyers]

http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/203261/

Hope this helps. :thumbsup:

 

[krshade]

try here for two popular ones:
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/203261/

 

[Black Hand]

Bear grease, bear oil, deer tallow or pig lard. As authentic as you can get.

 

[Swampman]

Straight olive oil works fine. Spit is good. 1/3 each olive oil, bee's wax, and lard also works fine (in the winter add more olive oil). I like deer tallow when I can get it. I've used whale oil & bear oil with good results too.

 

[poordevil]

50-50 bees wax and mutton tallow.

P.

 

[longfowler]

I have deer tallow, but haven't tried it yet...but this last weekend at smuggler's notch primitive biathlon in vermont, the straight olive oil worked best for me in the cold weather.

 

[BrownBear]

I'm real fond of my deer tallow/olive oil blend. 2:1 for winter use, 3:1 for warm weather. For authenticity I'll be changing out the olive oil for bear, whale or seal when I get some.

My hunting pard is fond of deer tallow/beeswax. I don't know his proportions, but it's "stiffer" than my olive oil mix. Sure seems to work though, and gives a nice thin film on a patch, while mine tend to penetrate the patch more.

 

[rabjr]

I use a bear oil/deer tallow mix that works quite well for me. :thumbsup:

 

[boar]

Those two deer will give you all the lube you need for long time. Its what I use. I just render the tallow down in small skillet and pour off, feed the cracklings to the dog. I bought a tube of bore butter as I only had a little of my Max-lube left(80's), tried it on a max-hunter, was messy. Did one with the deer tallow lot better. First one I had did as I have been shooting round ball. One thing nice about it don't run out of the tins in hot weather,80-90 degrees. In real cold weather I would carry next to your body, not in bag. Dilly

 

[longcruise]

I'm trying to get as authentic as possible. Any suggestions on a homemade patch lube recipe for my .54 flinter??

Guess it sorta depends on what your definition of "authentic" is. Are you after period correct?

It's probably safe to say that many during the flint period used some sort of rendered fat (lard?). Don't know if there was any such thing as Crisco then or veg oil or if olive oil was readily available everywhere.

Some of the PC and HC guys might have answers.

 

[Swampman]

Olive oil was very common. In old documents, it's usually refered to as sweet oil. Corn oil was used to waterproof canvas.

 

[Greenmtnboy]

I use a bear oil/deer tallow mix that works quite well for me. :thumbsup:

I agree with Swampy.
I have found elk tallow two to one with marmot oil to be as accurate as Mink oil from Track of the wolf and a whole lot cheaper.
Meaning use a hard tallow deer or elk mixed with an animal that renders down to oil bear or marmot/wood chuck, and find the mix your rifle likes.
All my Green Mt barrels shoot MOA with a two to one ratio.
:thumbsup:

 

[musketman]

Olive oil was very common. In old documents, it's usually refered to as sweet oil. Corn oil was used to waterproof canvas.

Whale oil was also abundant then.

The first principal use of whale oil was as an illuminant in lamps and as candle wax. Other uses came in time. In the 1700's it was noted that the burning oil from sperm whales glowed brightly and clearly and did not have a disagreeable odor like the oil from right whales did.

 

[Bob Gular]

Beeswax/tallow, equal parts each thinned with olive oil according to the temperature. Colder weather, more oil. Tried mink oil but that threw glowing patches that could be a problem in the woods.

 

[Homesteader]

Swampy's lube is fantastic. I heartedly endorse it! :thumbsup:

 

[MikeC]

I'm trying to get as authentic as possible. Any suggestions on a homemade patch lube recipe for my .54 flinter?? Thanks in advance forum members!!

If the temps are below freezing mink oil. Above freezing spit.

 

[paulvallandigham]

Altho I have never had the opportunity to try Mink Oil, I agree with Mike about using Spit, with one CAVEAT: If you are hunting, where the load is going to remain in your barrel for hours, SPIT dries out, and in the process, rusts the barrel where the patch seats against the barrel with the RB.

DO NOT USE spit if you are not going to fire the load within a few minutes. I used spit all the time at the range, and shot very good scores.

However, I made the mistake of using a spit patch on my first deer hunt with my gun, and didn't fire the gun all day. I had a rust ring right where the ball was seating in the barrel. It took a lot of effort to remove that rust, and lap that barrel smooth, and I can still " feel " it when I am running tight patches down the barrel to clean it.

I switched to Young Country 101 Lube ( Now wonderlube, bore butter, and a half dozen other names) after that mistake, and am trying ballistol, both solo, and in a dried patch lube per Dutch Schoultz. I also have added a OP wad, which re-positions the PRB slight forward of that rust ring, or the remnants of it, in my barrel.

 

[Scott_C]

IF you are going to leave the weapon loaded for a weekend or so: place a dry patch over the powder and then placing your lubed bullet or patched ball. It keeps the lube from getting to the powder.

 

[MikeC]

Paul is correct regarding spit and hunting loads. I should have been more specific. I use mink oil for all hunting loads including small game regardless of temps. For range work and the temps are above freezing nothing beats spit.