Hot off the Bench

[Stumpkiller]

Oh Oh. We better be careful, his wife reads this, too.

Welcome Joan! Whew! Thought Larry was into some second person existentialist artist-as-detached-entity-from-self stuff there for a minute. :: He's a talented fellow. We hope you BOTH enjoy the site and fellowship here.

 

[Larry Gardner]

How did you attach the horn nosecap?
Curious minds want to know. ::

I do all this work with a traditional tool called an endmill. I know that made all of you traditionalists' toes curl up.

The part protruding from the stock, we will call the stub. You want to make the stub half the thickness of the web. The female counter part in the nose cap is milled about 10-15 thousands larger to allow space for epoxy, or your favorite stickum stuff.

Note the 2 slots milled in the 2 bottom oblique flats. They shouldn't be there at this point but I had to put them there to show you what it looks like.

After your epoxy has set up, you can cut the 2 slots on oblique flats, no wider than a 1/8" wide and about the same depth. This is where your strength comes in. I save all of my broken jeweler saw blades and use them like rebar in concrete. Add several pieces of saw blade or wire in each slot and epoxy. Be sure to wax your barrel well in each epoxy step! If the barrel sticks use a heat gun, and it should come out with no problem.

Now that I have told you all what you already knew, go ahead and laugh!

 

[Zonie]

Hay, I'm not laughing! Great explanation and great pictures!

I asked because I was considering using Elk Horn on a 1755 "Transitional" style of rifle.
I was thinking I might dowel it with steel dowels, but drilling blind holes that line up precisely isn't easy when all I have is a little drill press and a hand drill.
I ended up using a brass casting, but I always thought the Elk horn would add a lot, as it did with your rifle. :applause: :applause:

Thanks again for taking the time to explain your method.