How do I secure the ramrod in my T/C hawken?
- Thread starter lorren68
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
Down near the end of the under-rib, right in front of the nose cap, there should be a little tiny leaf spring that keeps tension in the ramrod to prevent that.lorren68 said:
Its either missing, broken, or has been flattened some and simply needs to be gently bent outward a little to put pressure on the ramrod again.
Or to bend the ramrod a bit.
Walks with fire
54 Cal.
Cain's Outdoors sells them if TC doesn't get one to you in a timely manner. I sent them an e-mail two weeks ago and still haven't got a response.
In the short term you can double up a rubber band and slide it down over the front sight and roll it down just past the front thimble and the ramrod won't be able move forward. To take the ramrod out just roll the rubber band toward the muzzle and up on the thimble and slide out the rod. Takes a few seconds more but it will stay put and you can take it out without too much effort. It will get you through the season or until TC get the replacement in the mail.
In the short term you can double up a rubber band and slide it down over the front sight and roll it down just past the front thimble and the ramrod won't be able move forward. To take the ramrod out just roll the rubber band toward the muzzle and up on the thimble and slide out the rod. Takes a few seconds more but it will stay put and you can take it out without too much effort. It will get you through the season or until TC get the replacement in the mail.
Not to be argumentative, but I beg to differ on that. A couple years ago I had an issue with an old TC flintlock and sent them an e-mail. Got a response back the next day and a brand new lock in my mailbox 3 days later!
But, perhaps things have changed in 2 years?
But, perhaps things have changed in 2 years?
Walks with fire
54 Cal.
I really, really miss the old TC. :shake:
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2004
- Messages
- 14,767
- Reaction score
- 319
larry wv said:
That's a good one. Replacing the missing spring is in order, but some ramrods just don't want to stick even with the spring replaced. Really slick ones, undersize, synthetic, or even heavy ones can work loose.
I haven't had to resort to the small stick because I use a little tab of lever between the ramrod and underrib right out at the muzzle. Drops off the same way when I pull the rod. Trouble is, I lose the leathers and I'm back to a loose rod.
Thanks for the stick suggestion. It's waaaaay too obvious and easy for my feeble brain! :rotf:
- Joined
- Jun 12, 2005
- Messages
- 8,017
- Reaction score
- 1,023
fwiw, i had a similar experience ... e- mailed T/C a bunch of times and was going to call and complain about that and the folks on the phone were so nice that i just couldn't bring myself to snarl at them, and they got a whole lock to me in the nest two days (one of which was a weekend, if i remember correctly.
just one guy's opinion...
just one guy's opinion...
Actually you make a fair point...I dealt with T/C for about 18 years, starting back when they didn't even have Email...getting on a first name basis with 3-4 folks there for years.
Then Email began to be introduced but trying to use it was like the complaint the other gentleman mentioned above.
Have been away from T/C for about 3 years now and they may well have continued to make Email a more interactive part of their operation...seems they would have to in this day and age to survive.
Then Email began to be introduced but trying to use it was like the complaint the other gentleman mentioned above.
Have been away from T/C for about 3 years now and they may well have continued to make Email a more interactive part of their operation...seems they would have to in this day and age to survive.
I had a problem with my fiberglass ramrod sliding out, wrapped dental floss several times around the thimble, waxed floss seems best, and problem solved. I imagine thread or string or sinew would work also, except I tried "artificial sinew" and it has a slippery texture that won't hold the ramrod in place. Anyway it's not PC but it's easy and cheap. As far as the leaf spring if there was a piece missing from my rifle I would spend all my time thinking about that missing piece, until I replaced it.
Walks with fire
54 Cal.
Some things are still really good about TC but I miss the Custom shop and the larger selection of sidelocks. It's been years since they came out with anything new in a sidelock design and the ones that they still make probably don't sell that well at the prices they want. Why buy the same thing new when a used one is no different and much cheaper.
Yes, I think the sun has set on T/C Arm's peak in helping revive America's interest in muzzleloading...don't know of another single company that came close to making such a significant contribution over the decades...putting quality affordable MLs into the hands of so many people let us "get into the game".
In fact, I just packed up my final last T/C Hawken with it's GM .54cal Smoothbore Flint barrel for shipment yesterday...kind of wished I could have kept it 'just because'...but not being made of money, they helped pay for some recent long guns
In fact, I just packed up my final last T/C Hawken with it's GM .54cal Smoothbore Flint barrel for shipment yesterday...kind of wished I could have kept it 'just because'...but not being made of money, they helped pay for some recent long guns
RATROD56
40 Cal
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2020
- Messages
- 187
- Reaction score
- 162
Although I didn't ask the question, I have the same problem, "thank you for the advice."
user 13289
40 Cal.
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2008
- Messages
- 166
- Reaction score
- 14
Apply heat and put a bit of a bow in the rod is my advice too. Simple and effective.
If you've never bent wood before, try it out on other things first. Steam or dry heat works-you might be amazed. Watch Engel's Coachshop bend some wood on YT. I've seen him bend wood heated by flame only. Today I could just lay a packin' stick on top of the woodstove to get it hot enough. A heatgun works too.
Similar threads
