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Canute Rex
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It's a matter of preference. I am a slow pull guy myself. The match slowly disappears behind the flash guard and the moment of ignition is a surprise. No flinch.
Sometimes when the match isn't glowing as hot as the musketeer might like a sharp pull that smacks the glowing end down into the powder does the job.
Of course, there is a whole style of matchlocks that are snapping matchlocks, where a spring drives the match down into the pan. I had a Japanese Teppo like that and the gun went off reliably. The sights were so weird that I can't tell you about the effect on accuracy.
The main thing is to have large diameter match that is thoroughly bucked so it burns hot and clean.
Sometimes when the match isn't glowing as hot as the musketeer might like a sharp pull that smacks the glowing end down into the powder does the job.
Of course, there is a whole style of matchlocks that are snapping matchlocks, where a spring drives the match down into the pan. I had a Japanese Teppo like that and the gun went off reliably. The sights were so weird that I can't tell you about the effect on accuracy.
The main thing is to have large diameter match that is thoroughly bucked so it burns hot and clean.
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If the enemy is standing still yelling at you, pull the trigger slowly....
If the enemy is running toward you with a sword or lance, pull the trigger quickly... :wink:
If the enemy is running toward you with a sword or lance, pull the trigger quickly... :wink:
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I'm not familiar with that term....can you explain?
https://theseedandthesower.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/dreamstime_1231303721.jpg?w=800&h=502colorado clyde said:
:wink: :haha: :rotf:
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Canute Rex
40 Cal.
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No, it doesn't mean post-equine face-plant. I have to say, though, that guy was well bucked.
Bucking is boiling the rope in a solution of wood ashes or lye. This leaches out the lignin in the fibers. The lignin gives the rope strength, but it also creates ash when the match is burning.
My technique is to line a stainless pot with an old t-shirt and fill it with wood ash. Then pour in boiling water and let it sit for half an hour. Then bunch up the t-shirt (use rubber gloves) and squeeze the ash liquor out of the ash. Coil up your rope in the bottom of the pot and boil it for a couple of hours. The liquid will turn brown. Rinse and wring till the water comes out clear. Soak in dilute vinegar to neutralize the pH and rinse and wring again. Repeat if you want really good match.
I prefer to use 8 to 12 mm braided hemp.
Bucking is boiling the rope in a solution of wood ashes or lye. This leaches out the lignin in the fibers. The lignin gives the rope strength, but it also creates ash when the match is burning.
My technique is to line a stainless pot with an old t-shirt and fill it with wood ash. Then pour in boiling water and let it sit for half an hour. Then bunch up the t-shirt (use rubber gloves) and squeeze the ash liquor out of the ash. Coil up your rope in the bottom of the pot and boil it for a couple of hours. The liquid will turn brown. Rinse and wring till the water comes out clear. Soak in dilute vinegar to neutralize the pH and rinse and wring again. Repeat if you want really good match.
I prefer to use 8 to 12 mm braided hemp.
They gave that item up as to hard to find today.
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spudnut said:
The first Matchlock I saw fired for score was an Original Tanegashima and shot by the one member of the Japanese Team at the International Muzzleloading Committee World Championships in Quantico, VA in 1980. It was VERY FAST and seemed faster than many/most flintlocks from the time one carefully pulled the trigger.
At the 1996 and 1998 World Championships in Wedgnock, UK; I saw more original Tanegashima's fired (and worked on some) as well as some original and repro Fishtail butt English/Continental Matchlocks. They were all VERY FAST as well.
I am not entirely sure, but I don't think any of those serious shooters deliberately pulled the trigger quickly - at least not the ones who won Medals in those competitions.
Gus
