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How many coats of Tru-Oil?

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I put on 5 coats of LMF sealer and then 3 coats of LMF Finish. Then I sanded it down and put another coat of finish on. It came out smooth as glass. It's a different product, but I think the LMF Sealer cuts down on the 10+ coats of finish.


Goo Gone works the best for me for removing the finish off my fingers. I tried Ballitsol, it was okay, but it stinks. Goo Gone has a nice orange smell and only takes one application.
 
I just had to put coat number eight on my stock. Coat number seven had a couple runs so I buffed it with steel wool and put on another coat. I should be assembling it tomorrow. Next step, name her and take her to the range.

I have been using acetone to clean my hands. Smells like heck but works great.

HD
 
It's just a suggestion but maybe you should try just about anything other than acetone, MEK or lacquer thinner to clean your fingers with.

Although I'm not sure about the MEK or lacquer thinner, I have been told by those who know in the medical profession that acetone can be absorbed thru the skin (and lungs) and it attacks the liver.

zonie :)
 
Zonie said:
It's just a suggestion but maybe you should try just about anything other than acetone, MEK or lacquer thinner to clean your fingers with.

Although I'm not sure about the MEK or lacquer thinner, I have been told by those who know in the medical profession that acetone can be absorbed thru the skin (and lungs) and it attacks the liver.

zonie :)

Thank you for the death scare Zonie. I think I feel my liver deteriorating as we speak. You should never tell a hypocondriac something like that :nono: :)

I'll ditch the acetone.

HD
 
After 7-10 coats of Truoil does the finish have that "plastic" look of a built up finish... Even after using pumice or rottenstone? Don't like a "varnished" look so use 2 liberal, soak-in coats of LMF sealer, wipe off excess after 20 minutes for each coat and dry thoroughly. I then apply 3 very thin {measured in drops}, rubbed-in coats of Wahkon Bay Trucoat allowing each coat to thoroughly dry. The resultant finish needs to be buffed w/ a loose napped towel to bring out any shine at all.......Fred
 
Zonie said:
It's just a suggestion but maybe you should try just about anything other than acetone, MEK or lacquer thinner to clean your fingers with.

Although I'm not sure about the MEK or lacquer thinner, I have been told by those who know in the medical profession that acetone can be absorbed thru the skin (and lungs) and it attacks the liver.

zonie :)

HMM: I wonder now if thats what makes many women nuts? Acetone is the primary chemical in fingernail polish remover?
 
If you are getting any runs, you are not applying the coats thin enough. Use a drop of oil at a time, and then stretch it to cover as much of the stock as you can before using the next drop. I doubt I use 10 drops of Tru-oil to put a coat on a long rifle stock. I have not kept count, mind you, but I can usually cover one side of the buttstock with one drop of finish.

One of the reasons I switched to using Tru-oil from Linspeed is that Linspeed went on thicker, no matter how much I tried to stretch it. ( I now know that I sould mix it with some denatured alcohol to both thin it and help it dry faster.)

With thin coats of Tru-oil, the coat will dry in 2-3 hours typically. That allows me to put lots of coats on the stock in a 24 hour period.

I use clean fingers to apply the finish. I was my hands off with Palmalive Anti-bacterial liquid dishsoap. It works fine. If I let the oil dry at all, I use alcohol to dissolve it, and then use soap and water to wash it away.
 
paulvallandigham said:
If you are getting any runs, you are not applying the coats thin enough. Use a drop of oil at a time, and then stretch it to cover as much of the stock as you can before using the next drop.

That's what I do. However, when I applied the coat that had a couple runs I had not buffed with steel wool prior to applying it. I wasn't able to clearly see where I had applied it so I missed a couple spots where it was thick. Buffing with the steel wool allows me to see where I have applied the new coat and I think it also helps to make the new coat adhere better.

I think I'm finally done with her. I'll post a couple pics tonight or tomorrow.

HD
 
When I had a sleep study done the tech used acetone to remove the adhesive from my skin left from the contacts. It doesn't seem to bother them. My 2 cents.BB
 
About 5 to 8 coats.
The first coat Ill add a few drops of tru oil and Ill take a piece of 400 grit sandpaper and make a slurry mix of wood dust and tru oil. Than I use my finger to rub it into all of the cracks and crevises and any rough spots.
I had a friend recommend linseed oil over tru oil.
I might try it on my next gun kit.
 
paulvallandigham said:
If I ever find a supply of rottenstone in some shop, I will buy it, and perhaps save me several coats of finish on the next stocks I do.

Paul; Brownells has rottonstone. Also check out Pro-Custom Oil /Tung oil and Urethanes
This stuff is dynamite for hand-rubbed oil finishes. I use an old 'T'shirt and apply it in little dabs rubbing it in as I go. It is applied VERY thin and easily handled this way to set aside to dry for a few hours before repeating the process. You will be surprised at the finish build-up as you proceed with the process.
Idahjo
 
I was looking for a local supply, so I hopefully don't have to buy a huge quantity. I know about Brownells, but don't think I will every use that much.
 
It's been so long ago that I've forgotten where I got my rottenstone. It was either at a lumber yard, a hardware store or a wood craft store.

I got the one pound size and to date, I've maybe used 1 1 /2 ounces of it. A little goes a loooooooooooong way. :rotf:
zonie :)
 
Hi all:
I got my rottenstone at an old hardware store.I'd send ya half, imagine the hassle if the bag broke open at the post office?
I'm in a hurry to get a gun done for early muzzle loader hunt here in PA, I bought a can of spray poly to do the finish. one of the greatest finish I ever done.I think you can buy tru oil in a spray can too, but no one sells it around here.
Bill
 
Huntin Dawg said:
paulvallandigham said:
If you are getting any runs, you are not applying the coats thin enough. Use a drop of oil at a time, and then stretch it to cover as much of the stock as you can before using the next drop.

That's what I do. However, when I applied the coat that had a couple runs I had not buffed with steel wool prior to applying it. I wasn't able to clearly see where I had applied it so I missed a couple spots where it was thick. Buffing with the steel wool allows me to see where I have applied the new coat and I think it also helps to make the new coat adhere better.

I think I'm finally done with her. I'll post a couple pics tonight or tomorrow.

HD


Im a little confused. The way I put it on is to rub it into the stock until it is tacky and I cant drag my fingers over it any more.

How do you do it to get runs?
:hmm:
 

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