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How much 4f

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RemingtonMagnum

32 Cal.
Joined
Sep 17, 2006
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Again I need to know how much ffffg to put in the pan. Do I over fill it, do I fill it level, just cover the bottom? I have no one but you guys to ask.

My T/C arrived it is suppose to be shot 8 time. I actually can't see a single sign of it ever firing.

Don Jackson Remington Magnum/Ultramag
 
You will have to experimaent to see how much works best. Try about 1/3-1/2 a pan and keep it to the outside away from the vent hole.
 
RemingtonMagnum said:
Again I need to know how much ffffg to put in the pan. Do I over fill it, do I fill it level, just cover the bottom? I have no one but you guys to ask.

My T/C arrived it is suppose to be shot 8 time. I actually can't see a single sign of it ever firing.

Don Jackson Remington Magnum/Ultramag
3 grains 4F is recommended for TC Flint lock pans...I've followed that recommendation in mine, and it works perfectly...I use a "pan primer" which has a 3grn plunger dispenser tip and get a consistent 3 grains in the pan every time...and the level of 4F stays below the vent hole which is what you want.
 
Trouble with most flintlocks is that they never read this forum so they don't know how to act properly. You'll have to find what works best for yours. Mine likes a 2/3 full pan (just below the vent and level across), but I use 3F. Start at half full and work down. If it gets worse add more. :thumbsup:
 
I have one of those little Plunger type pan primers.My L&R likes just a small spot in the side of the pan away from the touchhole.
Most T/C's come with a manual right from the factory.Did this one?Thompson Center would probably send one no problem if you give them a call.When I started muzzleloading all I had for info was Sam Fadalas book and my T/C manual and I haven't even Blown my fingers off yet. :winking:
 
Magnum,
I'm no expert but from shooting my own
Lyman GPR F/L I would advise not to overfill your
pan. Start at maybe 1/2 full and go from there.
Don't stay locked into 4ffff either IMO. Mine
works just fine 1/2 full with 3fff Goex and never
use subs. Real B/P only. Just my thoughts.
snake-eyes :hmm:
 
The fun thing about a flintlock is playing with it to see what works best. Like see how little priming you can get away with,you don't need much.
I like 3f swiss in the pan. Works for me. :winking: Rocky
 
i have T/C's pan primer that gives 3 grs of 4f that i found to to much in my T/C hawken....i ground down the spout on mind till it gives me 1.5 grs....haven't had any problems with any kind of delay since....alot of times at the range when loading the gun it self primes with bout the same 1.5 - 2 grs if i don't put a pipe cleaner in the venthole first to stop it from coming out...........bob
 
Depends on the position of your vent hole. If it's high you can fill the pan. If it's low just put in a little.
 
RemingtonMagnum said:
Again I need to know how much ffffg to put in the pan. Do I over fill it, do I fill it level, just cover the bottom? I have no one but you guys to ask.

My T/C arrived it is suppose to be shot 8 time. I actually can't see a single sign of it ever firing.

Don Jackson Remington Magnum/Ultramag

I have a T/C Rengade. After playing with it for a while (and after asking pretty much the same question that you did) here is what works for me.

I use a pan charger that puts out about 3 grains, This gives me roughly 1/4 to 1/3 of a pan full. I also prime to the outside of the pan, away from the vent hole. At first glance, priming with a smaller amount and to the outside seems a bit counter intuitive, but, it has given me fast ignitions, with few hangfires or nofires.

So what model T/C did you get?
 
I use a repop rev war tin pan charger. Ive used it on a few flinters and it always puts just the right amount in.

Dixie Gun Works is where I got it from.
 
I'd say about 1/3 of a pan is plenty. More is not necessarly better, you want just enough to make a decent flash without so much as to make a distracing flash.
 
RemingtonMagnum said:
Again I need to know how much ffffg to put in the pan. Do I over fill it, do I fill it level, just cover the bottom? I have no one but you guys to ask.

My T/C arrived it is suppose to be shot 8 time. I actually can't see a single sign of it ever firing.

Don Jackson Remington Magnum/Ultramag





I told you I needed Flint Lock Shooting for Dummies. I have to update this statement. My rifle has a T/C stock from a Renegade. The barrel is a GM long heavy Hex barrel. The Lock is a L&R so a T/C book want be very applicable. The Rifle is suppose to be shot 8 times. I can't locate any signs of any smoke are flash. The touch hold (Learning a little)is totally clean and bright. Plan to go shooting this weekend if the weather allows. Thanks for the help.

Don
 
Don. The vent, or touch hole should be located above a line draw across the top of the pan, where it joins the barrel. Some are a little lower, where that line splits the the vent hole, half above, and half below the line. If your vent is lower than that, you have to not only use less priming powder, but you will always have to bank the prime away from the touch hole. If you block the touch hole, the powder had to burn down before the heat can enter the barrel and ignite your main charge. That leads to a delay in ignition, a so-called hang fire.

once you have the vent located, and know where to put the prime, then, and only then can you answer " How much priming powder?" If the vent is substantially above the line, or top edge of the pan, you may do well to fill the pan. I recommend grinding the pan broader or wider, than it comes from the factory, using a small grinding tool in a hand drill, or a dremel tool. A wider pan allows a bigger target for the sparks to hit so you ignite the prime quickly.

Next, you want to clear a hole into the main charge by using a vent pick to stick through that vent or touch hole, and push all the way to the other side of the chamber. This makes a place for the flame and heat of the priming charge to ignite more than one granule of powder. In a flint lock, you ignite the charge one granule at a time. It speeds the ignition of the entire charge if you can ignite more than one granule in the chamber.

In contrast, a percussion cap gun injects a hot flame into the powder charge, burning a pushing its way through the powder to ignite it all very quickly. With a percussion gun, you pack the powder down hard, using drop tubes to load the gun, and pushing down on the ramrod when you load the PRB.

In a flintlock, test show conclusively, that the best accuracy is going to be obtain by loading the PRB to just touch the powder in the chamber, without any compacting at all. This leaves the powder loose in the chamber, puts more air around each granule of powder in the chamber, and thereby speeds ignition of the charge uniformly. The test show the same charge of the same powder loaded in a flint lock this way, as opposed to being compacted in a percussion gun will produce slightly lower velocities in the flintlock, than in the percussion gun. This difference can be easily compensated for by using slightly more powder in the flintlock. While the percussion system is fairly closed, that flintlock still has that vent at the back of the chamber, bleeding off gases, and reducing velocity even as the ball is moving forward down the barrel. The size of the touch hole actually has a minor role in determining how much velocity is lost when comparing equal charges of the same powder, one in a flintlock, and the other in a percussion gun.

You might want to read my article at: [url] www.chuckhawks.com/flintlocks.htm.[/url]

It might help you understand how that flint lock works, and how you can iprove it yourself. Paul
 
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