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How much lube are you using?

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Ya never want it dripping wet or powder will soak it up. I used to use Hoppes # 9 muzzleoading lube and patch lubricant and would simply put a dab on and run it in with the fingers till absorbed. REALLY good for not having to swipe between shots,
Now using dutchs dry patch system and working up from 4-1. It seems to be better for groupos and I am all about accuracy.
 
Took a while but found some of your Hoppes and looking forward to trying it this week. Hope it is as good as you say. I'm using Wano powder which is a bit dirty. Thanks for the tip.
 
I usually use TOTW bore cleaner and get the patches really wet then squueze all the moisture out works great for me.
 
Not very much. Just put the patch against the lube block and twist about 90* and back is plenty for me.
 
I firmly believe people who complain about lubes are using too much. Which is why Dutch Schultz recommends using a soluable oil and water to wet the patches and then letting the water evaporate to leave a small amount of oil in the patch!
 
For some years I believed that slicker was better.
In developing a way to have each piece of patching lubed exactly the same I was truly amazed when I found that the less oily the patch was the tighter the group.
I believe the less oily the patch is the greater the resistance
before the ball begins to move. Just a nanosecond but it allows the pressures to build up a bit before the ball is gone.
With a slick patch lube the ball is gone before the powder has done its thing,


Dutch
 
i use lard or mink oil just smeared on one side, just enough to fill the weave and prevent burning, the side against the ball looks dry but will feel greasy to the touch. I was never a fan of liquid oils myself, some folks swear by them. Ask 10 shootes get 11 answears :haha:
 
I use just enough to wet the patch. There is a guy in our club that is a salty veteran and his swim in Hoppes #9 Patch Plus. He says it always worked in his gun.
 
Simple answer.....just damp. My reference www.blackpowderrifleaccuracy.com. Also, note that it is possible for a patch to be too slick. So, not only does the amount of lube make a difference but what you choose to use as your lube will make a difference. For instance, I wanted to know if Frog Lube would make a good lube for my rifle. I fired 10 shots using spit as my patch lube and 10 shots after treating my bore according to the Frog Lube directions and using Frog Lube as my patch lube. I carefully pre-weighed all of my balls and pre-measured all of my powder charges. I found that with spit, my avg. MV was 1266 fps with a std. dev. of 32 fps.. With Frog Lube, my average MV was 1179 fps with a std. dev. of 51 fps.

What this shows is that Frog Lube is slicker than spit and allows the ball to begin to move sooner than with the spit patch. This prevents the breach pressure from rising as quickly and the ball does not reach as high a MV as with spit. It also allows the ball to move too quickly and the breach pressures vary more than with spit. This is evidenced by the differences in the std. deviations of the two lubricants. Thus, it is obvious that you can have a patch that is too slick.

I must make one clarifying note. While Frog Lube may not be the best patch lube, it is an outstanding product for use on the exterior of your gun and is also an outstanding product for use on modern weapons. For these uses, I highly recommend it.
 
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With all of the lube recipes and folks over the many years trying everything under the sun, how do you know that nobody has tried snot? I betcha someone has given it a try. I have no idea how it would work :idunno: but even if it turned out to be excellent stuff, where would you get a reliable source. No problem for allergy sufferers or during cold season but if you are healthy, you are screwed. :haha: Even if you had a good source, you would still have to pick out the boogers.
 
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