I read Sam Fadala’s Black Powder Handbook when I first started this journey. In it, he advises limiting the variables while loading. I have a certain regiment that I won’t go into now, but it helps to accomplish that. Now, if I could just load the sprue straight up every time, I’d have it made!
I’ve noticed that fabric has a smooth and textured side. I always load the smoother side against the bore and the textured side wrapped around the ball. Not too long ago I had the idea that because the patch is gripping the ball, maybe I shouldn’t lube that side. Up until then, my methods were to lube the smooth side and then stack them in a prescription pill bottle. In hot weather, I’d leave it in my vehicle all day. That way it uniformly lubes the patch. When it’s cold outside, I put the bottle with the lid removed in the microwave and run it for a minute on high. I use Bumbling Bear Grease from October Country (bear grease and beeswax). I apply a coat and work it into the patch until it’s completely covered. According to Ned Roberts (“The Muzzle Loading Caplock Rifle”), bear grease is the best lube and preservative ever plus it’s period correct!
One night before a shooting match I liberally coated both sides with lube as I was in a hurry. My shots were hitting higher than normal. According to accuracy Guru, Dutch Schoultz, “too much lube and the ball hits high, too little and it hits low”.
I agree that a liquid lube keeps the bore cleaner but with my arthritic hands and wrists, greased patches load easier!
There’s my two cents and then some. The best thing to do is trial and error. Take it to the range, change only one thing at a time and see how she prints on paper. If you like experimentation, muzzleloading is the ticket!
Walt
P.S.: When building a load for hunting, I use a 9” paper plate to dial it in. That’s the approximate size of the kill zone of most big game animals in my state.
