How thick does a loading block need to be?

[BrownBear]

Those look handy, and nice to have all the pieces in one package, rather than rattling around lose in a bag. Gotta be quicker when seconds count.

 

[Grenadier1758]

I made this one some time ago. Its a little too thick (3/4" maple) but after cutting off the patch the ball can be pushed through a bit to make the alignment with muzzle work.

The top plug is used as the short starter. Each cavity holds 90 grains of powder.

This was made back in my mostly cap lock days, so no provisions for a pan priming load.

Its a bit too modern for my present kit.

 

[FishDFly]

Though not many loading blocks have survived, one loading block dated 1757, reputedly from Christian's Spring, Penn. was documented in Muzzle Blasts article by Dick Toone (Nov 2001)

 

[jrmflintlock]

I like mine a little thinner than Ball diameter so a little bit of the patched ball sticks out on one side. in then put some sticking out of both sides so I don't have to worry about which side of the block I use. For hunting they usually only have two or three holes. This one is for my .62 fowler.

 

[Mark from Alaska]

I am taking the all in one approach... mine has 5 holes for Round Balls, and 5 holes for powder, and a bullet starter hole... reach in the bag and pull out the whole deal without scrambling with getting stuff in and out of the bag and such...

The block itself is made from Alaskan Yellow Cedar, the bullet starter I made from a cut-off screwdriver that uses bits, and the handle I took and fashioned from an old Ice Pic.. now I just gotta find some low profile 1/2 inch corks or something for the powder chambers... got them drilled out to accept a 300 win mag case with the shoulder cut off. They hold around 80 grains. Been yo-yo gmwih the idea of Not having an insert for the powder holes and just leaving them smooth. Without insert, they hold 90 grains... sure not period correct, but wasn’t going for that, just wanting an all in one tool for 5 shots..

 

[Rifleman1776]

To simply answer the OPs question. The loading, ideally, should be the thickness of your ball diameter. Does not need to be perzact. I have made many ball blocks. Having a planer at home does help. I can plane down a scrap of wood to proper thickness for a caliber and then cut up into whatever shape suits my fancy. I've made a lot of combo one-hole/short starter blocks from antler. Good use for scrap.

 

[Ketchakah]

My first loading block was made of leather. I do not know how common this could have been. But after 200 years is quite possible a Leather loading block would look like a ball of mold and thus thrown away. i am constantly fighting mold. I can only imagine what my stuff would look like in 200 years.
Is just a thought however, with no background more then that.

 

[Black Hand]

Though not many loading blocks have survived, one loading block dated 1757, reputedly from Christian's Spring, Penn. was documented in Muzzle Blasts article by Dick Toone (Nov 2001)

And is believed to be a forgery/fake...

 

[Black Hand]

Though not many loading blocks have survived, one loading block dated 1757, reputedly from Christian's Spring, Penn. was documented in Muzzle Blasts article by Dick Toone (Nov 2001)

I believe I saw the same in Muzzleloader magazine (also dated 1757) within the last 10-15 years (maybe Muzzleblasts, as I borrowed some from a friend). However, it is believed to be a forgery/fake...