How to achieve this stock finish?

[Covurt]

I've got a Kibler SMR on the way and I'm trying to figure out what finish I'd like to put on it. While looking at Sitting Fox kits (already planning my next build. Need a squirrel getter..haven't even got the first on yet....) I noticed this squirrel gun that I really like the finish of. How would one go about achieving a wood finish like this? Is this just aqua fortis and bone black? Wood seems more red than what I've seen with aqua fortis.

Ripley Squirrel Gun

 

[Covurt]

Upon further research it looks like it might just be highly burled with aqua fortis and tanic acid?

 

[Flintandsteel]

If that is maple, it’s not AF, wayyyyyy to red. If it is AF, red stain was added after the fact.
Is it possible that it’s cherry?
If you know who it belongs to.... maybe they could shed some light.
it will also depend what wood your Kibler is made of. This one maple, AF with Chambers Oil finish.

 

[Bob McBride]

Yep Dane is dead on. If AF was used it was topped with a very dark red stain. It does look like bone black was used liberally as well.

 

[Covurt]

Bob, I have been watching your Channel! Good stuff. Keep it coming.

Appreciate the replies.

 

[Bob McBride]

Bob, I have been watching your Channel! Good stuff. Keep it coming.

Appreciate the replies.

Thanks for the kind words Covurt! I appreciate it!

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
I suspect it is a very red brown stain possibly like Jim Klein's "red Brown" stain.

dave

 

[Covurt]

Guess I'll have to aquire me some maple sticks and start experimenting.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

I suggest the application of a light layer of Fiebing's Leather Dye, Mahogany or perhaps Burgundy, followed by thick application of the same color mixed with dark brown. With Fiebing's you apply, wipe off the excess, and allow to dry. In the above case the second coat (or perhaps it was a single coating of a mixture of mahogany and dark brown) was not wiped off but allowed to soak in and dry very dark...,

..., then when dry, boiled linseed oil was applied with 4-0 steel wool, and the reddish parts that you see are where the stock finisher rubbed hard enough to remove enough of the darker pigment to the reddish stuff below. I've seen it done before, though with not as dark a surface layer as above..., in one case the natural wear of the shooter on the forearm and wrist where the shooter's hands contact the rifle lightened, and in another case the effect was done to "antique" the rifle, using the steel wool method which I mentioned.

LD

 

[Covurt]

Thanks, Loyalist Dave. I will definitely give that a try.

 

[Bob McBride]

Guess I'll have to aquire me some maple sticks and start experimenting.

I notice your logged on ALR as well. You may ask over there as there's a ton of builders nesting over there, and I'm sure they have plenty of small scrap maple laying around. That said, every piece takes stain differently so there is only so much you can learn from testing on scrap as far as color. You can get an idea of differences between this stain and that....

 

[Covurt]

Will do.

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

Some use black transtint to darken the ’stripes’ or harder wood areas.

 

[Art Caputo]

My approach to duplicate that stock finish would be: after heating, over a combined treatment of Aquafortis, then Tannic Acid, a Maple stain such as Laurel Mountains, Lancaster Maple, all rubbed with Oil/Scotch-bright to desired darkness in low areas of the stock. Track of the Wolf’s “Original Oil” would give the rubbed/dull oiled appearance in the photo. IMO

https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/392/1/LMF-STAIN-LM
https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/393/1/FINISH-ORG

 

[Scoper05]

If that is maple, it’s not AF, wayyyyyy to red. If it is AF, red stain was added after the fact.
Is it possible that it’s cherry?
If you know who it belongs to.... maybe they could shed some light.
it will also depend what wood your Kibler is made of. This one maple, AF with Chambers Oil finish.
View attachment 41843

This is just AF and acid.

 

[Ferret Master]

Depending on the density of the wood I get that color using roofing tar, some call it coal tar. I cut mine with kerosene for military stocks and Boiled Linseed oil for Muzzle Loaders, some use white gas or mineral spirits. Good article in June 2020 Muzzle Blast on using Roofing Tar. Been using it for more than 30 years.
Ferret Master

 

[Flintandsteel]

Scoper
Exactly, dark brown with amber stripes, not red like the photo. Never seen that kind of red on maple without using a red, or cherry stain.

 

[Covurt]

Builder Said it was Cherry base with walnut second coat. Thanks again for all the help. I learned quite about it about stain and finishing trying to figure it out and following up with everyone's ideas.

 

[S.Kenton]

I suggest the application of a light layer of Fiebing's Leather Dye, Mahogany or perhaps Burgundy, followed by thick application of the same color mixed with dark brown. With Fiebing's you apply, wipe off the excess, and allow to dry. In the above case the second coat (or perhaps it was a single coating of a mixture of mahogany and dark brown) was not wiped off but allowed to soak in and dry very dark...,

..., then when dry, boiled linseed oil was applied with 4-0 steel wool, and the reddish parts that you see are where the stock finisher rubbed hard enough to remove enough of the darker pigment to the reddish stuff below. I've seen it done before, though with not as dark a surface layer as above..., in one case the natural wear of the shooter on the forearm and wrist where the shooter's hands contact the rifle lightened, and in another case the effect was done to "antique" the rifle, using the steel wool method which I mentioned.

View attachment 41853



LD

Yes LD is dead on, I’ve done many finishes using fieblings leather dye..

 

[Flintandsteel]

It’s best to use wood stains for wood. IMHO, leather dye is for leather.
sorry guys, don’t want to step on toes, just think it makes sense.