Put some automatic transmission fluid on it and let it set for a week before trying to remove it. Then the easy out is the answer.
How to fix this?
- Thread starter tom in nc
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
4575wcf
40 Cal
Easy outs all have one common issue. They work by swaging into a smaller hole, which in turn expands the diameter of the offending stuck material, tightening the assembly rather than helping you to loosen it. Take a soft hardware nut big enough for the ID to just cover the offending piece and fill the hole in the nut with MIG weld. Then with your cordless impact wrench set on LOW torque turn the nut out, stuck piece and all. Works every time, but careful with the set up so as not to weld the nut to any metal surface outside of the offending piece.
From the look of the photo it appears to be very old (antique?). The wood appears to be uniformly shrunk with age. Steaming might bring it back to acceptable dimensions followed up with some wood rejuvenation.
DixieTexian
Pilgrim
- Joined
- Mar 6, 2007
- Messages
- 419
- Reaction score
- 647
No, I think the barrel has dried out too much. Soaking it in oil for a few weeks should allow it to swell back up to the correct dimensions.
Well I wasn’t joking about steaming wood. Check out some of the repairs listed by Tim Owen on his web site http://www.cablesfarm.co.uk/. It can’t fix every antique wood issue, but it can bring back some dints, etc. Just trying to be helpful.
64Springer
75 Cal.
.
Pete G
76 Cal.
Some can’t be helped
Are you thinking this gun could be a shooter? Have you looked in the bore? If the rest of the gun is like this area, will it be worth the work?
Those gaps can be filled by using a like hardwood fitted as a shim using a slow set epoxy as your glue to secure them and after sanding down the extra use the same epoxy with a dark wood sanding dust mixed in as a thickener to bed everything in place. I do a lot of bedding of metal to wood using this method and of course the metal is glued to the wood however epoxy don't like heat so I simply heat my parts and they let go from the epoxy while leaving it in place where you want it. I have bedded ill-fitting buttplates, nose caps and everything in between using this method. Sometimes it is almost invisible. Of course, old oily wood is a problem for any type of gluing and I have had good results washing it with lacquer thinner prior to any work. As far as that nipple is concerned prep it for an easy out then heat it red hot with an oxy acetylene torch. It will glow long before the barrel. Any stuck, rusted screw, bolt or whatever will want to expand but it has nowhere to go so when it cools it will have shrunk. heat it up a few times and it will come out after it cools. Learned this stuff long ago doing broken off manifold bolts, brake bleeders and things like that in the north country and apply the same tech to everything where possible.
Last edited:
TDM
Cannon
- Joined
- May 28, 2022
- Messages
- 9,660
- Reaction score
- 24,236
- Location
- Louisiana & My camp in Mississippi
I’ve used pop cycle sticks with success. The wide, tongue depressor type is better. They can shaped, wood glued, and sanded to fit. Takes stain well too. May not be a perfect match but you can get rid of the gap.
yes auto parts store.
